This dye will need a mordant, Alum, when dyeing wool. 10-15% of Alum. Mordanted fabric or yarn, 50% - 100% hibiscus dye.
Add water to the dye and bring to the boil. Keep on a simmer for 30min. Strain the liquid through a sieve (cloth if using ground hibiscus) and returning the liquid back to the pot (no more heating required). Add your dyestuff and let it soak until your required colour depth is reached, from 1/2 hour to overnight.
LOGWOOD ~ Available Cut or ground and as extract*
(Bois de Campeche, Campeachy Wood)
*Collected in the Wild (foraged) in Haiti
Logwood is a natural dye wood from Central America, used for producing blues and purples on wool, black on cotton and wool, and black and violet on silk.
Logwood is PH sensitive.
It is called by old dyers one of the Lesser Dyes because the colour was said to lose all its brightness when exposed to the air.
65g bark, soaked in water for 2 days.
100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 10g)
Bring pot with dye to simmer For 2h.
Strain through cloth, add yarn/fibre and dye bag to dye bath for 1h.
The logwood chips should be put in a bag and boiled for 20 minutes to 1/2 an hour, just before using or soak overnight, bring to the boil in the morning for 1h, strain and bind into bag.
* When using extract you only need to use 5-10% of the weight of your dry fabric. Logwood is one of the more excessive dyes - a little goes a long way - especially when using extract.
ORGANIC INDIGO DYE
Organic Indigo ~ Dye colour Blue
The advantage in dyeing with Indigo is, that no mordant is needed. The water doesn't need to be heated to more than 40 degrees Celsius and a little goes a long way. We can dye 3-4 kg of Wool using 50g of Indigo.
There are many ways of dyeing with Indigo. Below you will find the recipe for a yeast vat. For a straight forward no-waiting-required approach, you can use Hydros as an oxygen remover. Waiting time approx. one hour.
Basic Recipe ~ FERMENTATION USING YEAST:
For 500gr wool etc. at one time . (amount can be repeated several times using the same bath)
9l water dye container with lid separate pot for the water bath to add the container 110gr sugar 50gr dried yeast with out preservatives etc. 30gr bicarbonate of soda 40gr ground Indigo thermometer
This Method requires the dye bath to be on a constant 40 degrees Celsius and shouldn't exceed 50 degrees Celsius. Ideally put the dye pot in a water bath on a wire rack to ensure even distribution of temperature.
Fill pot with 9l of water and heat to 40 degrees Celsius.
Mix sugar and yeast and add to the water. Leave until dissolved and bubbly.
Dissolve soda in a glass with hot water and add the dye, stir until smooth. Add to yeast mixture.
Close lid and ideally put into a bin bag, you want it as air locked as possible. Leave at steady temperature for 8 hours.
Lift lid and stir carefully until all the foamed Indigo has returned into the dye. Try to stir as little air into it as possible.
Close the pot up again and leave for 48 hours until the water is yellow green.
The water will show a metallic shimmer on the surface when ready. Carefully stir it back in.
Add the damp but not mordanted wool etc. make sure all are under the water add a plate or a metallic disc to press the wool etc. under the surface. Whatever swims at the top will be unevenly dyed.
Close it up and leave for 6 -12 hours.
Remove wool etc. and press out back into the dye bath.
Open wool etc. and leave exposed for at least 20min. All should turn blue.
If you prefer a deeper blue add it to the dye bath again and repeat step 9.
Wash twice with a mild soap, then rinse 4-5 times using vinegar in the last bath.
Hang up and air for a few days or weeks.
You can repeat this dyeing process using the same dye bath several times.
ORGANIC NEEM LEAVES & OIL ~ NATURAL MOTH PROTECTION
Neem Leaves and Spray
These Neem leaves are grown on a small organic farm in India. The farm is kbA registered (registered organic).
Available in leaf form or as spray*
Neem is very popular and is used for so many things, medicinal, anti-fungal and as insecticide. We treat all our articles with the neem oil spray in order to protect the yarns and wool from moths.
Neem oil Spray
Neem oil, cold pressed from the fruits and seeds of the Indian Neem tree. Like the Neem leaves, the oil is ideal for protecting fabric, yarn and fibers from insects and moths. I use it all the time and I have yet to see a moth!
200ml spray bottle of Neem oil contains: cold pressed Neem Oil mit 1% Azadirachitin (active ingredient in Neem oil) natural essential oils, Isopropyl - alcohol
What customers say: "Brilliant keeps midges out too and the smell just goes away I found it quite citrus but it may smell different to each person Hubby smelled faint lemongrass"
Basic Recipe (Leaves):
Sew little pouches (or use drawstring bags), just like Lavender pouches, stuff them loosely with Neem leaves, and put them into your yarn/wool storage. They smell pleasantly, but that is my opinion and so far doesn't seem to leave an odor on the yarn/wool.
100gr is enough for 5 small pouches.
Basic Recipe (Spray):
Simply spray onto your items, there is no trace of the oil or long term smell on your products. Even though the oil smells strong when applied. Pleasantly though, but that is my own opinion.
ORGANIC ELDERBERRY DYE
ORGANIC *CUT or **WHOLE ELDERBERRIES (Sambucci Nigri) ~ for a light purple colour on wool and silk as well as green when using Soda Ash.
Cut Organic Elderberries are Cultivated in Poland Whole Organic Elderberries are Cultivated in Croatia
Fine for Consumption and Soap making
*Use 50% of Dye according to the weight of the dry fabric/fibre you would like to dye.
**Use 75-100% of dye according to the weight of the dry fabric/fibre you would like to dye.
Add water to the dye, add tartaric acid and bring to the boil. Keep on a good simmer for 60min. Strain the liquid through a sieve lined with cloth and returning the liquid back to the pot, tying the dye bag and add that one too. When cool enough add your dye stuff and heat to 80 Degrees Celcius for an hour. You can let it continue to cool in the pot until your required colour depth is reached, from 1/2 hour to overnight.
Add Soda Ash for a leafy green.
Rinse when finished.
Colours shown in the last pictures are Elderberry on our Yeti yarn (Yak & Silk Yarn)
To achieve reds and pinks, the PH needs to be increased to 10-11 (alkaline). Keep in mind to always use PH neutral soap with PH sensitive colours. This dye gives a good green when iron is added and was used traditionally to make artist paint.
65g bark, soaked in water for 2 days. 100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 13g)
Bring pot with dye to simmer For 2h. Strain through cloth, add yarn/fibre and dye bag to dye bath for 1h. Rinse.
Oak Gall - harvested from the wild in Turkey
Oak Gall, also known as oak apple was and is still used for making ink. We use it as a fibre Mordant, due to its high tannin content. Unlike other tannin, it doesn't stain the fibre.
Oak Gall is available as whole, cut or ground.
This henna can also be used for dyeing yarn and hair, as well as for making tattoos. Henna will give you browns and oranges.
A little info on Henna from Wikipedia:
Henna (Arabic: حِنَّاء) is a dye prepared from the plant Lawsonia inermis, also known as hina, the henna tree, the mignonette tree, and the Egyptian privet, the sole species of the Lawsonia genus.
Henna can also refer to the temporary body art (staining) based on those dyes (see also mehndi). Henna has been used since antiquity to dye skin, hair and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool and leather. Historically, henna was originally used in Egypt and then the Arabian Peninsula, Indian Subcontinent, parts of Southeast Asia, Carthage, other parts of North Africa and the Horn of Africa. The name is used in other skin and hair dyes, such as black henna and neutral henna, neither of which is derived from the henna plant.
100g dye, diluted in cold water. 100g yarn/fibre.
Bring pot with dye to simmer For 1h. Strain through cloth, add yarn/fibre and dye bag to dye bath for 1h. Rinse.
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