LOVAGE ~ Dye Colour yellow and green.
Country of Origin: Germany
Fine for consumption
This European Herb is probably best known in Cooking. We love it in soups and only a small amount can give a surprising amount of flavour! So you might be surprised to find it in our Dyeing section.
Like with most dyes, if a plant has a strong perfume, it tends to give a colour. When I tried fresh Lovage, I was astounded by the colour it yielded. A deep green yellow, which turned into a stunning green, when a bit of Iron was added. The dried herb gives similar results, though not as powerful as the fresh herb.
Not everyone has Lovage growing in the garden, or only a small amount. If you have some fresh lovage available mix them with the dry powder and the result will be lovely.
Wool (mordanted 10% Alum)
Line the pot with a cloth. Fill the pot half with water and add the lovage.
Bring to about 85-95 degrees Celsius for 1 hour.
Tie dye in Cloth and leave in bath.
Add wool and simmer gently for 1 hour.
Add 3% -5% iron to the dye bath to turn it green.
Remove after about 10min, rinse & dry.
LOVAGE ~ Dye Colour yellow and green.
ALUM MORDANT ~ necessary for most plant dyes to ensure colour fastness.
Alum is considered the least harmful or safest when it come to mordants used in plant dyeing. What many don't know is that Alum occurs naturally in nature and some plants, like horsetail, contain Alum.
*Alum has long been used as an additive to both foods and drinking water.
Weigh your DRY textile material.
ALUM: Divide the weight of the material to dye by four. Weight out that much alum mordant. A scant two tablespoons equals one ounce of alum.
Add Alum to the pot, and almost fill with warm water. Leave enough room to add the wet textile material. Stir until fully dissolved.
*You can leave the wool in for 24- 72 hours - cold mordanting.
** Or you can heat to 80 degrees Celcius for one hour.
Rinse and dry.
Organic natural Indigo ~ Dye colour Blue
[our Indigo is NOT synthetic but the real stuff]
Country of Origin: India
The advantage in dyeing with Indigo is, that no mordant is needed. The water doesn't need to be heated to more than 40 degrees Celsius and a little goes a long way. We can dye 3-4 kg of Wool using 50g of Indigo.
There are many ways of dyeing with Indigo. Below you will find the recipe for a yeast vat. For a straight forward no-waiting-required approach, you can use Hydros as an oxygen remover. Waiting time approx. one hour.
Basic Recipe ~
It is possible to create a vat from indigo, lime (calcium hydroxide) and over-ripe fruit such as bananas or dates that relies on the chemistry of the sugars* rather than fermentation of the fruit. But it’s easier to simply use fructose shared in
Michel Garcia’s 1-2-3 recipe. It’s very simple: One Part indigo,two parts lime and three parts fructose, plus warmth.
*Fructose and glucose found in ripe fruit are reducing sugars; ordinary sugar – sucrose – is not a reducing sugar.
FERMENTATION USING YEAST:
For 500gr wool etc. at one time . (amount can be repeated several times using the same bath)
dye container with lid
separate pot for the water bath to add the container
50gr dried yeast with out preservatives etc.
30gr bicarbonate of soda
40gr ground Indigo
This Method requires the dye bath to be on a constant 40 degrees Celsius and shouldn't exceed 50 degrees Celsius. Ideally put the dye pot in a water bath on a wire rack to ensure even distribution of temperature.
- Fill pot with 9l of water and heat to 40 degrees Celsius.
- Mix sugar and yeast and add to the water. Leave until dissolved and bubbly.
- Dissolve soda in a glass with hot water and add the dye, stir until smooth. Add to yeast mixture.
- Close lid and ideally put into a bin bag, you want it as air locked as possible. Leave at steady temperature for 8 hours.
- Lift lid and stir carefully until all the foamed Indigo has returned into the dye. Try to stir as little air into it as possible.
- Close the pot up again and leave for 48 hours until the water is yellow green.
- The water will show a metallic shimmer on the surface when ready. Carefully stir it back in.
- Add the damp but not mordanted wool etc. make sure all are under the water add a plate or a metallic disc to press the wool etc. under the surface. Whatever swims at the top will be unevenly dyed.
- Close it up and leave for 6 -12 hours.
- Remove wool etc. and press out back into the dye bath.
- Open wool etc. and leave exposed for at least 20min. All should turn blue.
- If you prefer a deeper blue add it to the dye bath again and repeat step 9.
- Wash twice with a mild soap, then rinse 4-5 times using vinegar in the last bath.
- Hang up and air for a few days or weeks.
You can repeat this dyeing process using the same dye bath several times.
Madder Dye Cut or ground ~ Dye Colour a variety of reds including orange reds, brick red, blood red and fiery reds.
*Collected in the Wild of Iran
The color depends on a variety of conditions, like the soil the roots where grown, their age, the mineral content of the water used for dyeing, the temperature of the dye pot, and how much madder you use in relation to the fiber. Many dyers suggest mordanting the wool just with alum and not to use cream of tartar as well, but that is your own choice and why not try to experiment a bit? Like with any dyeing, you will need to soak the fiber overnight or for a few hours before adding them to the dye pot for both hot and cold dyeing.You can dye with madder either cold or with heat; some dyers use chalk to get better reds.
(You can adjust the amounts as needed)
100 grams dried madder roots
100 grams mordanted (Alum) fiber (50 grams for darker reds or 300 grams for lighter colors)
7 to 10 liters of water
6 grams calcium carbonate (chalk) if using
Soak the roots in the dye pot over night
Bring o 65 degrees Celsius for one hour
Strain through cloth
Add yarn and dye bag to dye pot
Keep on 65 - 95 degrees Celsius for one hour
**IMPORTANT: The higher the temperature the darker the colour.
Organic *ground, **cut or whole Hibiscus flowers
Cultivated in Egypt.
For a light purple colour on wool and deep pinks to dark greys on Linen & Cotton, using different mordants.
*Use 50% of dye according to the weight of the dry fabric/fibre you would like to dye when using ground Hibiscus.
**Use 75-100% of dye according to the weight of the dry fabric/fibre you would like to dye when using cut or whole Hibiscus.
*** If you like to read about how to dye Linen with hibiscus, follow this link here: Creating Colour from Food by AppleOak FibreWorks
This dye will need a mordant, Alum, when dyeing wool.
10-15% of Alum.
Mordanted fabric or yarn, 50% - 100% hibiscus dye.
Add water to the dye and bring to the boil. Keep on a simmer for 30min.
Strain the liquid through a sieve (cloth if using ground hibiscus) and returning the liquid back to the pot (no more heating required).
Add your dyestuff and let it soak until your required colour depth is reached, from 1/2 hour to overnight.
SODA ASH ~ To change colour (PH indicator) and scouring cellulose fibres
No natural Dye Studio can do without Soda Ash. It may be used in small amounts to alter PH or used for scouring cellulose fibres. Soda Ash is alkaline and used to increase the PH in a dye bath as well as in an Indigo Vat.
In general Soda Ash can be dissolved in the hot dye bath. It helps to increase the PH of the bath.
Oak Gall - harvested from the wild in Turkey
Oak Gall, also known as oak apple was and is still used for making ink. We use it as a fibre Mordant, due to its high tannin content. Unlike other tannin, it doesn't stain the fibre.
Oak Gall is available as whole, cut or ground.