Indigo Begins in the Garden: Reflections on Tristan's Variety Trials

As Indigo Week drew its main presentations to a close, Tristan Lienhard reminded us of something that can sometimes be easy to forget.

Before there is a vat, there is a plant.

And before there is a plant, there is a seed.

Throughout the week, we explored indigo through many different lenses. Dominique Cardon took us through history. Rosa Chang explored community and culture. Britt Boles guided us through the remarkable journey from indigo leaf to sukumo and living fermentation vat. Together we built three different indigo vats and explored the practical realities of working with blue.

Tristan's presentation brought us back to the beginning of the story.

Drawing on years of observations from the AppleOak FibreWorks dye garden, he shared ongoing work comparing indigo species, varieties and seed lines, exploring how genetics, climate and selection influence the plants we rely on for colour.

What became clear throughout the evening was that growing dye plants is not simply a matter of sowing seeds and waiting.

Every season offers new observations.

Which plants germinate best?

Which cope with challenging weather?

Which produce strong colour?

Which save seed reliably?

And how do we maintain healthy, genetically diverse populations over time?

These questions led to lively discussions around seed saving, inbreeding depression, breeding, adaptation and the future of dye plant development. Participants shared their own experiences from different climates and regions, creating exactly the kind of collaborative learning environment that Indigo Week was designed to encourage.

One participant remarked how fortunate we are to see this type of research being carried out by growers and dyers working directly with the plants every day rather than solely within academic institutions. That comment stayed with me.

There is certainly a place for formal research.

But there is also enormous value in long-term observation, practical experimentation and the accumulation of knowledge that comes from living alongside plants season after season.

Perhaps that is one of the reasons indigo continues to fascinate so many people.

No matter how much we learn, there is always another question waiting in the garden.

As the main presentations of Indigo Week come to an end, the learning continues.

The vats are still developing.

The dyeing is still to come.

The troubleshooting sessions are still ahead.

And after Indigo Week, we hope to begin a community sukumo journey together, following the process from harvested leaves through to finished sukumo over the coming months.

Because in many ways, indigo is never really finished.

It simply moves from one season into the next.

Indigo Week is part of our Full Membership programme, giving members access to live presentations, discussions and demonstrations from leading indigo practitioners around the world. Every session is recorded, so members can revisit the material at any time and catch up on any presentations they miss. The growing library of recordings has become an invaluable resource for anyone wanting to deepen their understanding of indigo growing, dyeing and fermentation. 

You can join our Full Membership here  Or the free Academy community here


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