Madder Dye – Cut or Ground

Rubia tinctorum · Natural Reds & Oranges

From soft peaches and warm oranges to brick reds, madder offers plenty to explore. Your water, fibre and dyeing method all influence the colour.

At a glance

• Origin: Wild-harvested in Eastern Europe
• Material: Dried root, cut or ground—not an extract
• Colours: Peaches, oranges, pinks and reds
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
• Colourfastness: Can produce lasting colours; lightfastness and wash fastness depend on preparation and process
• Safety: Madder root is not food-safe and may be acutely toxic if swallowed. Treat all forms - including dust and particles - as hazardous and use only for dyeing or craft purposes.

Cut or Ground?

How much to use

50–100 g madder per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 50–100% WOF—weight of dry fibre.

Start with a small sample. Lower quantities generally give lighter shades.

Basic dyeing guide

• Prepare: Scour and mordant your fibre, then wet thoroughly.
• Soak: Cover the madder with water and leave overnight.
• Extract: Heat gently to 60–70°C (140–158°F) for approximately one hour or longer.
• Dye: Strain if desired, add the fibre and hold at gentle heat for 1–2 hours. Allow room for the fibre to move.
• Finish: Cool in the dye bath for better colour, leave overnight where practical, then rinse and wash gently.

Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.

Storage & safe handling

• Store sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Do not consume madder or use it in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
• Avoid breathing dust and prevent contact with your mouth, eyes and open wounds. Wear suitable protective equipment when handling ground madder.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers. Do not use them for food preparation.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• If madder is swallowed, seek urgent medical advice or contact your local poison centre. Do not induce vomiting unless instructed by a medical professional.
• For dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types vary with pack size and availability of our preferred options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy for shared experience, questions and support from fellow dyers and growers.

Natural Indigo Pigment

Indigofera tinctoria · Traditional Indian Indigo · Approx. 35 - 42% Indigotin

From pale sky blue to deep navy, natural indigo offers an extraordinary range of blues. This high-quality indigo is traditionally prepared in India and analytically checked to verify its natural origin.

At a glance

• Origin: India
• Botanical source: Indigofera tinctoria
• Plant part: Leaves, processed to extract the pigment
• Form: Natural indigo pigment powder
• Indigotin content: Approximately 35–42%
• Colours: Pale blue through to deep navy
• Fibres: Cotton, linen, hemp, wool and silk
• Mordant: Not required
• Preparation: Requires a suitable indigo vat
• Production: Traditional pigment extraction
• Traceability: Batches analytically checked for natural origin

How indigo works

Indigo is an insoluble pigment - it will not dye textiles simply by being mixed with water.

For textile dyeing, it must be reduced in an alkaline indigo vat. This changes the pigment into a soluble yellow-green form that can enter the fibre. When the fibre is lifted into the air, the indigo oxidises and turns blue.

“100% natural indigo” refers to its natural origin - not 100% indigotin purity. This product contains approximately 35 - 42% indigotin, the main blue colouring component.

Choosing a vat

Choose a complete recipe suited to your fibre. Temperature, pH and ingredient quantities vary between vat systems.

Wool and silk require particular care with alkalinity, temperature and time in the vat.

How much to use

The amount of indigo needed depends on:

• Your chosen vat recipe and working volume
• The size, strength and condition of the vat
• The quantity and type of fibre
• The depth of blue required

Follow a recipe intended for natural indigo. A maintained vat can be used for several dyeing sessions and replenished when needed.

For a hydros or thiourea dioxide vat, plan the amount of indigo according to the depth required in the first dip, as colour is not generally built up gradually through repeated dips in the same way as with other vat systems.

Basic dyeing guide

• Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly and wet it before dyeing. Indigo itself needs no mordant. Wet out the indigo powder.
• Build the vat: Follow a complete recipe suitable for your chosen fibre and vat system.
• Reduce: Allow the vat to reduce and settle before dyeing.
• Dip: Lower the fibre gently into the liquid, avoiding splashing and touching any sediment at the bottom.
• Oxidise: Lift it out carefully and allow the colour to turn fully blue in the air.
• Build colour: With fermentation, sugar or urine vats, repeat the dipping and oxidation process until you reach your desired shade. With a hydros or thiourea dioxide vat, aim to achieve the desired depth with the first dip.
• Finish: Rinse and wash thoroughly, following guidance appropriate to your fibre and vat.

Colourfastness

Indigo can produce excellent lightfastness and good washfastness when properly applied and finished - Heat setting recommended.

Colourfastness varies according to the vat method. Fermentation and urine vats can produce particularly strong colourfastness and deep shades. Hydros and other chemical reducing-agent vats are convenient and fast, but generally produce poorer colourfastness.

Some surface colour may rub off, particularly with very deep shades. Controlled dipping and thorough washing can help reduce this.

Other creative uses

Natural indigo can also be used as a pigment with a suitable binder in:

• Paints
• Inks
• Decorative finishes
• Woodwork

Mixing indigo with water alone will not create a durable surface finish. Check out our Maya Blue listing if you like to use Indigo for painting.

Storage & safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Avoid breathing fine powder and prevent contact with eyes.
• Handle in a well-ventilated workspace.
• Use suitable particulate respiratory protection where dust cannot be adequately controlled.
• Wear gloves and eye protection when preparing alkaline vats.
• Follow the safety instructions for every reducing agent and additive used.
• Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• For textile dyeing and craft pigment use only - not for consumption or cosmetic use.
• When preparing a urine vat, work outdoors and consider the effect of strong odours on neighbours.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to explore indigo vats, share your results and learn alongside fellow natural dyers and growers.

Logwood Dye – Cut or Ground

Haematoxylum campechianum · Natural Purples, Blues & Blacks

From violet and blue-purple, logwood is a powerful, pH-sensitive natural dye. This wild-collected Haitian heartwood is available cut or ground. Please see our extracts for Logwood extract.

At a glance

• Origin: Wild-collected in Haiti
• Botanical name: Haematoxylum campechianum
• Plant part: Heartwood
• Form: Cut or ground - not an extract. Please see our extracts for Logwood extract.
• Colours: Violet, purple, blue-purple, fades to purple grey - grey
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: Required; use a fibre-appropriate method
• Colourfastness: Poor - Medium with Alum & Iron. Generally better to washing, poor prolonged light exposure
• Sensitivity: Colour varies with pH, water chemistry and mordant

Cut or ground?

Both forms are raw dye materials rather than concentrated extracts. Logwood extract requires different quantities and preparation. Please see our extracts for Logwood extract.

How much to use

For a strong initial dye bath, use approximately:

65 g logwood per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 65% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

Logwood is a strong dye, so smaller quantities may be sufficient for pale or medium shades. Sample first and adjust according to your fibre, mordant and desired colour.

Basic dyeing guide

• Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a method suitable for the material, then wet thoroughly.
• Soak: Cover the logwood with water. Soak ground wood for up to two days or cut wood 2 days or longer.
• Extract: Heat gently for approximately 1–2 hours.
• Strain: Strain through a fine cloth, retaining the coloured liquid. Place the material in a dye bag if returning it to the bath.
• Dye: Add the prepared fibre and heat gently for approximately one hour, ideally around 80°C (176°F).
• Finish: Allow to cool, leave in cold dye bath overnight for stronger colour, then rinse thoroughly and wash gently.

Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.

Colourfastness

Logwood can produce good washfastness when prepared and mordanted correctly, but many purple shades are sensitive to prolonged light exposure and may fade or change.

For textiles that will receive regular sunlight, test a sample under the expected conditions before beginning a larger project.

Using logwood with other dyes can help create rich blacks, but a darker shade is not automatically more lightfast - the complete dyeing method matters.

Storage & safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling ground logwood.
• Avoid contact with eyes and prolonged skin contact.
• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling fine powder.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers—never food-preparation equipment.
• Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• For textile dyeing and craft use only—not for consumption or cosmetic use.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow dyers and growers.

Traceable Cochineal Dye

Dactylopius spp. · Canary Islands · Approx. 19–22% Carminic Acid

Cochineal is one of the strongest and most versatile natural dyes, producing colours from soft pinks and rich reds to purples.

Cochineal naturally produces purple. On wool and silk, lowering the dye-bath pH can shift the colour towards red. Cellulose fibres behave differently, so follow the fibre-specific guidance below.

Our cochineal is cultivated and processed in the Canary Islands and is fully traceable to its producer. I am delighted to offer this carefully produced alternative to conventionally sourced cochineal.

At a glance

• Origin: Canary Islands, Spain
• Production: Cultivated and processed in the Canary Islands
• Traceability: Fully traceable to the producer
• Dye source: Dried cochineal insects
• Species: Dactylopius spp.
• Form: Whole dried cochineal
• Carminic acid: Approximately 19–22%
• Colours: Natural purples, with reds produced at low pH, as well as pinks and related shades
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: can be dyed without, but better lightfastness if used
• Colourfastness: Generally very good when correctly mordanted, dyed and finished
• Animal origin: This is an insect-derived dye and is not vegan

How much to use

For a medium to strong shade on wool, begin with:

6-12g cochineal per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 6-12% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

Cochineal is highly concentrated. Smaller quantities can produce pale shades, while deeper colours may require more dye or a stronger initial bath.

Although cochineal is an expensive dye, it continues to release colour over several baths. Depending on the strength and colour of the initial bath, an exhaust bath can often be used up to six times to create successively paler shades.

We also dry the cochineal after extraction so that it can be used again for paler colours.

Sample first when working towards a particular shade.

Basic guide for wool

• Prepare: Scour and mordant the wool with approximately 10% alum WOF, or follow your preferred wool mordanting method.
• Soak: Cover the cochineal with water and leave overnight. This helps soften the insects and prepare them for extraction.
• Blend: Blend the soaked cochineal using a dedicated stick blender to release as much colour as possible. The cochineal can also be used whole, but the resulting colour will generally be less strong.
• Extract: Add the blended cochineal to the dye bath and heat gently. Skim off any dark foam or residue that rises to the surface.
• Adjust the pH: Cochineal’s natural colour is purple. To produce reds, lower the pH carefully using a suitable acid. Test the bath as you work, as pH changes can significantly affect the final colour.
• Strain: Strain the liquid through a fine cloth and keep the extracted cochineal in a dye bag. It can be used for further exhaust baths or dried for later use.
• Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted wool and heat gently for approximately one hour.
• Finish: Allow to cool, then rinse and wash gently.

Important for cotton, linen and other cellulose fibres

On cellulose fibres, cochineal produces purple when used with a tannin, alum and soda ash mordant.

Do not use the low-pH red method described for wool and silk. Acidifying the dye bath can discharge the aluminium mordant from cellulose. Where tannin has been used, the remaining tannates can retain the cochineal and produce a beautiful pink.

Follow the dedicated cotton and linen recipe for the correct preparation and dyeing method. Follow a cellulose-specific mordanting method when dyeing cotton, linen or hemp. 

Find some suitable methods for cellulose fibres here.

Colourfastness

Cochineal is known for producing strong colour with generally very good lightfastness and wash fastness when suitable mordanting, dyeing and finishing methods are used. it is also known as an acid dye and can therefore be used without a mordant on protein fibres. However, the colourfastness is not nearly as good as with a mordant.

Performance still depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade, pH and aftercare. No natural dye produces identical results in every studio or on every fibre, so sampling is recommended.

An insect-derived dye

Cochineal is produced from small scale insects that live on prickly pear cacti. Their bodies naturally contain carminic acid, the colourant responsible for cochineal’s characteristic purple and red shades.

Approximately 80,000–100,000 insects may be required to produce one kilogram of dried cochineal, although the number varies.

This is an animal-derived material and is not suitable for vegan projects.

Storage & safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Avoid creating or breathing dust when grinding.
• Avoid contact with eyes and prolonged skin contact.
• Cochineal and carminic acid may cause an allergic reaction in susceptible individuals.
• Wear suitable protective equipment when grinding or handling fine particles.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers—never food-preparation equipment.
• Follow the safety instructions for all mordants, acids and modifiers used.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• For textile dyeing and craft use only - not sold for food, cosmetic or medicinal use.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow dyers and growers.

Weld Natural Yellow Dye

Reseda luteola · Germany · Dried and Cut

Weld is one of Europe’s most highly regarded traditional yellow dyes. It produces clear, vibrant yellows with excellent colourfastness and woad or indigo blues can be overdyed with Weld to create a beautiful range of lively greens. You can also use iron to shift it into a more subtle green.

This standard weld is grown and collected in Germany and supplied as dried, cut plant material.

At a glance

• Origin: Germany
• Botanical name: Reseda luteola
• Plant part: Dried aerial parts
• Form: Dried and cut
• Colours: Clear yellows; greens when overdyed with woad or indigo; or shifted with iron
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: Required; use a fibre-appropriate method
• Colourfastness: Excellent for a flavonoid dye when suitably mordanted, dyed and finished

A traditional European yellow dye

Weld has a long history as an important European dye plant and is valued for producing particularly clear, bright yellows.

woad or indigo blue can be overdyed weld yellow to produce greens. These layered colours are historically associated with shades such as Lincoln Green and Saxon Green.

How much to use

Use approximately:

80 - 100g weld per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 80 - 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

Weld is generous in the dye pot and often releases enough colour for a second, paler dye bath. The final shade will depend on the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction and dyeing method.

Sample first when working towards a particular colour.

Basic dyeing guide

• Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a suitable method, then wet it thoroughly.
• Soak: Place the weld in the dye pot with water. Add approximately 7% soda ash WOF - or enough to reach a pH of 9 - and leave to soak overnight.
• Extract: Heat the weld and extraction liquid gently for approximately one hour.
• Strain: Strain the liquid through a cloth, keeping the plant material out of the dye bath.
• Dye: Add the prepared fibre and heat gently for approximately one hour. Use enough water for the fibre to move freely.
• Finish: Allow the fibre to cool, then rinse and wash gently.
• Reuse: Use the remaining dye bath for a second batch of mordanted fibre to produce a paler yellow.

Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Weld is known for its excellent lightfastness and wash fastness when suitable mordanting, dyeing and finishing methods are used.

Performance still depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade and aftercare. Sampling is recommended when working towards a particular result.

Storage and safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Do not consume or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
• Avoid creating or breathing dust.
• Prevent contact with the mouth, eyes and open wounds.
• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
• Wear gloves and eye protection when working with soda ash and mordants.
• Follow the safety instructions for every mordant, alkali and additive used.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers—never food-preparation equipment.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of dried, cut weld, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, soda ash, woad, indigo and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow natural dyers and dye plant growers.

Black Walnut Shell Natural Dye

Juglans nigra · Cultivated in the USA · Naturally Tannin-Rich

Black walnut shells produce warm, earthy browns ranging from lighter natural shades to deep, rich tones with iron.

Cultivated in the USA, black walnut is naturally rich in tannins and has a long history of use as a textile dye. Deeper shades can be developed by using more dye, extending the dyeing time or working the fibre through a second dye bath.

At a glance

• Origin: USA
• Botanical name: Juglans nigra
• Plant part: Shell
• Form: Dried black walnut shells
• Colours: Light, medium and deep earthy browns
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: Recommended
• Colourfastness: Excellent when suitably prepared, dyed and finished

A naturally tannin-rich dye

Black walnut is a North American tree valued for its timber and tannin-rich hulls and shells. These naturally occurring tannins give black walnut a strong affinity with textile fibres and help produce lasting earthy browns.

Black walnut can colour some fibres without a mordant, but suitable preparation and mordanting can improve consistency, depth and durability.

How much to use

For a lighter earthy brown, begin with:

50 g black walnut shells per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 50% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

For a deeper brown, use:

100 g black walnut shells per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 100% WOF. Iron after mordant.

Shade depth will also depend on the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction time and length of time in the dye bath.

Sample first when working towards a particular colour.

Basic dyeing guide

• Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a suitable method, then wet it thoroughly.

Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.

• Soak: Cover the black walnut shells with cold water and leave them to soak overnight.
• Extract: Heat the soaked shells and liquid to approximately 80°C (176°F) and hold for one hour.
• Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth, keeping the shell material out of the dye bath.
• Dye: Add the prepared fibre and hold the bath at approximately 80°C (176°F) for one hour. Use enough water for the fibre to move freely.
• Deepen: For a deeper shade, allow the fibre to remain in the cooling dye bath overnight or for up to 12 hours.
• Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Black walnut can produce excellent lightfastness and wash fastness when the fibre is properly prepared and the dye is suitably extracted, applied and finished.

Performance still depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade and aftercare.

Storage and safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
• Do not consume or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
• Avoid creating or breathing dust.
• Prevent contact with the mouth, eyes and open wounds.
• Wear gloves, as black walnut can stain the skin and may cause irritation or an allergic reaction in susceptible individuals.
• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
• Follow the safety instructions for all mordants and modifiers used.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers—never food-preparation equipment.
• Keep away from food, children and pets.
• For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of dried black walnut shells, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, iron and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow natural dyers and dye plant growers.

Organic Hibiscus Natural Dye

Hibiscus sabdariffa · Whole, Cut or Ground · Cultivated in Egypt

Create shifting pinks, purples, mauves and experimental green tones with organic Hibiscus flowers.

All three available forms - whole flowers, cut flowers and Hibiscus powder - are organic. Hibiscus is highly sensitive to pH, making it an interesting material for experimental dyeing and colour studies.

Its colourfastness is poor, however, and the resulting shades may fade or change during washing, exposure to light or contact with substances of a different pH.

At a glance

• Botanical name: Hibiscus sabdariffa
• Plant part: Flowers and calyces
• Origin: Cultivated in Egypt
• Organic status: All options are organic
• Forms: Dried whole flowers, cut flowers or powdered Hibiscus flowers
• Material: Botanical dye material - not an extract
• Colours: Pinks, purples, mauves and greens
• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
• Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
• Colourfastness: Poor
• Special characteristic: Highly sensitive to pH even after dyeing

Choosing a form

Whole organic Hibiscus flowers

• Recognisable whole botanical material
• Easy to contain and strain from the dye bath
• Use approximately 75–100% WOF as a starting point for stronger colour

Cut organic Hibiscus flowers

• Smaller pieces provide good contact with the extraction water
• Easier to measure than whole flowers
• Use approximately 75–100% WOF as a starting point for stronger colour

Ground organic Hibiscus

• Offers a larger surface area for extraction
• Can produce lighter purple or mauve shades on wool
• Creates more sediment and is best contained in a fine cloth or dye bag
• Use approximately 50% WOF as a starting point

How much to use

Use approximately 50–100g of Hibiscus for every 100g of dry fibre.

This is equivalent to 50–100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

As a starting point:

• Ground Hibiscus: Approximately 50% WOF
• Cut or whole Hibiscus: Approximately 75–100% WOF

These quantities are guidelines only. Results vary according to the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH, temperature and extraction method. Sample first when working towards a particular shade.

Basic dyeing guide

1. Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a suitable method, then wet it thoroughly.
2. Soak: Cover the Hibiscus with water and allow it to soak before extraction.
3. Extract: Heat gently for approximately one hour. Avoid vigorous boiling, as excessive heat may affect the colour.
4. Strain: Strain the liquid before adding the fibre. Ground Hibiscus is best contained in a fine cloth or dye bag.
5. Dye: Add the prepared fibre and heat gently until the desired colour is reached.
6. Cool: Allow the fibre to cool in the dye bath where practical.
7. Finish: Rinse gently and dry away from strong, direct sunlight.

For wool, approximately 10% alum WOF may be used, or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method.

Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.

Working with pH

Hibiscus is highly pH-sensitive. Depending on the water and modifiers used, its colour may move through pink, purple, mauve, grey, blue-grey or green shades.

• More acidic conditions: May encourage pinker or redder tones
• More alkaline conditions: May shift the colour towards purple, blue-grey or green
• Neutral conditions: Often produce mauve or purple shades, although results vary

Make pH adjustments gradually and test the bath regularly. Strong acids and alkalis may damage fibres.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Hibiscus has poor lightfastness and washfastness and should be treated as a fugitive or experimental natural dye.

Colours may fade or shift over time, particularly through exposure to sunlight, repeated washing or changes in pH. Hibiscus is best suited to samples, artwork, seasonal projects and pieces where evolving natural colour is acceptable.

It is not recommended when a reliably permanent textile colour is required.

Storage and safe handling

• Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
• For textile dyeing and craft use only.
• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
• Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling ground Hibiscus.
• Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
• Follow the safety instructions for every mordant, acid, alkali or modifier used.
• Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers—never food-preparation equipment.
• Keep away from food and out of reach of children and pets.

For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of organic whole, cut or ground Hibiscus, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, modifiers and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results and explore natural colour alongside fellow dyers and dye-plant growers.