Madder Dye – Cut or Ground
Rich Natural Reds for Dyeing | Wild-Harvested in Eastern Europe

Madder (Rubia tinctorum) is a renowned natural dye that produces a stunning range of reds—from warm oranges and rich brick reds to deep blood reds and fiery crimson tones. The final shade depends on multiple factors, including soil conditions, root age, mineral content of the water, dyeing temperature, and fibre-to-dye ratio.

Dyeing Tips:

• Mordanting: Avoid cream of tartar when mordanting cold. 
• Soaking: Pre-soak fibres for at least 12h-24h before dyeing.
• Dyeing Methods: Madder can be used in both hot and cold dye baths. Adding chalk can help achieve better reds.

Colour Fastness: Excellent – Madder is known for its durability and deep, lasting hues.

Discover the beauty of natural dyeing with madder and create your own unique reds!

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Recipe for Wool: Downloadable PDF 

Recipe for Plant fibres: Downloadable PDF

Also available as dye kit!

Madder Dye Kit for Plant Fibers: Available Here »

Madder Dye Kit for wool & Silk: Available Here »

Basic Madder Dye Recipe

(Adjust quantities as needed to achieve your desired shade. Water quality will influence colour result. Oranges instead of reds are often more likely)

Ingredients:

• 100g dried madder roots (soaked overnight and blended if possible, or use ground)
• 100g mordanted fiber (Alum-treated)
  • Use 50g of fibre for darker reds or 300g for lighter shades
• 7–10 liters of water
• 6g calcium carbonate (chalk) (optional, for enhanced reds)

Instructions:

1. Soak the madder roots in the dye pot overnight.
2. Gently heat to 65°C (149°F) and maintain for one hour for red tones.
   • Higher temperatures will shift the colour towards brown.
3. Strain the dye bath through a cloth to remove root particles.
4. Add the mordanted fibre and the dye bag (optional, might result in uneven colour) back into the pot.
5. Maintain a temperature between 65–95°C (149–203°F) for one hour to develop the colour.

IMPORTANT: The higher the temperature, the darker and browner the final shade.

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OAK GALL
Use: Cellulose Fibre Mordant | Harvested From: Aleppo Oak in Turkey | Also Known As: Oak Apple | Recipe: link below

Oak Gall, also known as Oak Apple, is harvested from the Aleppo Oak in Turkey and is a traditional mordant used for cellulose fibres. Due to its high tannin content, it is an effective mordant for preparing cellulose-based fabrics for natural dyeing. Unlike other tannin-based mordants, Oak Gall only stains the cellulose fibre a light beige, making it a preferred choice for delicate dyeing projects.

Key Features:

• High tannin content for cellulose mordanting
• Minimal staining cellulose fibres
• Available whole, cut, or ground

Function:
Oak Gall is used to prepare cellulose fibres for natural dyeing, helping the dye adhere to the fabric without leaving stains. Its high tannin content ensures vibrant and durable colours on cellulose fabrics like cotton, linen, and hemp. 

Storage & Usage:

• Available in whole, cut, or ground form.
• Store in a cool, dry place.

Perfect for natural dyers and textile artists working with cellulose fibre. Please see this recipe for mordanting cellulose with Gallotannin

100% Natural Indigo (Indigofera tinctoria)

Traceable · Traditionally fermented · Origin: India · Approx. 35-42% indigotin

This is a high-quality, truly natural indigo, prepared in India from fresh leaves of Indigofera tinctoria using a traditional natural fermentation process. The indigo is supplied in powdered form and produces clear, stable blue shades ranging from very pale sky blues to deep, dark navies.

All batches are subject to analytical controls to verify their natural origin. This additional level of checking provides reassurance and traceability in a market where adulteration and partial synthesis have become increasingly common.

The main colouring component is indigotin, valued for its excellent lightfastness and washfastness when dyed correctly.

Use in textile dyeing

Indigo is an insoluble pigment rather than a mordant dye. In order to dye fibre, it must first be reduced from its blue, oxidised state into a soluble yellow-green form. This reduced indigo penetrates the fibre and then re-oxidises on contact with air — the moment when the characteristic blue colour develops.

This indigo is suitable for a wide range of vat systems, including natural fermentation vats, fructose or sugar vats, lime-based mineral vats, bran vats, and quick vats using hydros or thiourea dioxide. Vats typically operate at 30–40 °C, making indigo dyeing a comparatively low-energy process.

It can also be combined with other natural dyes, such as yellows or reds, to create layered colours including greens, purples, and complex overdyes.

Typical usage guide

For pale sky blues, approximately 1 g of indigo per 100 g of fibre is sufficient.
Medium denim blues are usually achieved with around 5 g per 100 g of fibre.
Deep navy shades generally require 12 g or more per 100 g of fibre, built up through multiple dips.

Other uses

Beyond textile dyeing, this indigo can be used as a natural pigment for paint making, ink, decorative finishes, and woodwork. When used as a pigment, it should be well ground into the chosen binder or medium to ensure even colour development and to avoid visible particles.

The plant

Indigofera tinctoria is a small shrub traditionally cultivated for indigo production and is thought to have originated in India. The plant and its dye are mentioned in some of the earliest Sanskrit texts, and indigo was long known as “the queen of dyes” before the widespread adoption of synthetic indigo at the end of the nineteenth century. Other species of Indigofera have also been used historically as sources of natural indigo.

Storage and safety

Store in a cool, dry place, sealed against moisture. Avoid inhaling fine powder and wear a mask when handling. Gloves are recommended when working with lime, hydros, or iron additives.
This product is not intended for food use.

Logwood Dye

Dye Colour: Blue, Purple & Black | Collected in the Wild in Haiti

Logwood (Haematoxylum campechianum), also known as Bois de Campeche or Campeachy Wood, is a natural, pH-sensitive dye that originates from wood found in Central America. This versatile dye creates stunning blues, purples, and deep blacks on wool, cotton, and silk. While its colour fastness is considered poor by experienced dyers, Logwood is commonly used in combination with other dyes to achieve rich, deep blacks. Perfect for eco-conscious artists, Logwood is available as cut or ground bark for your dyeing projects.

Colour Fastness: Poor (best used with other dyes for black)

Product Details:

• Dye Colour: Blue, Purple, and Black
• Perfect for: Wool, cotton, and silk
• Mordant: Alum (10%) for best results

Basic Recipe (Using Ground Bark):

1. Ingredients:

   • 65g Logwood bark (soaked for 2 days)
   • 100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 10%)

Instructions:

• Bring the soaked bark to a simmer for 2 hours.
• Strain through cloth and add the yarn/fibre and dye bag to the dye bath.
• Simmer for 1 hour and then rinse.

Alternatively, soak the Logwood chips overnight, then boil for 1 hour before use.

For Logwood extract, please visit our Natural Dye Extracts Page.

Explore the potential of Logwood Dye for a range of vibrant blues, purples, and blacks in your natural dyeing projects!

COCHINEAL DYE ~ Dye colours red, pinks to purples

Origin: Canary Islands, Spain. Organically farmed and processed by Canaturex 

I am so delighted to have finally found some organic Cochineal. Lorenzo is one of the very first offering fully traceable Cochineal grown to organic principals.

Cochineal, a powerful dye sourced from tiny insects that feed on cacti, produces stunning shades of purple, red and pink. With just one dye bath, this incredible insect can create a range of hues, from deep, rich reds to delicate, fairy-like pinks. It is derived from the Dactylopius species of insects, and its body contains 19-22% carminic acid.

*To make one kilogram of cochineal dye, it takes about 80,000 to 100,000 insects. 

Excellent colour fastness is guaranteed.

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Recipe for Wool Fibres: Downloadable PDF

Recipe For Plant Fibres: Downloadable PDF

Basic recipe:

6% Cochineal
Wool yarn mordanted with Alum 10%


Soak Cochineal in Water overnight
blend using a stick blender

Add dye to dye bath
Bring to a simmer
Remove any black tar like bubbles

Strain through a cloth and keep to the side
Add yarn to bath simmer for one hour.

Add dye bag to second and any following dye baths.

WELD DYE (Reseda Luteola)
Dye Colour: Yellow and Green (when overdyeing) | Country of Collection: Typically Europe

Weld (Reseda Luteola) is a renowned plant-based colourant with a rich history, often used to create high-quality dyes in temperate regions. Paired with other traditional dye plants like Madder, Woad, and Dyer's Chamomile, it yields beautiful shades of yellow, which can then be overdyed with Woad to create the iconic Saxon and Lincoln greens. Legend has it that Lincoln Green was the signature hue of Robin Hood and his outlaws, achieved by overdyeing Weld yellow with Woad blue.

Colour Fastness: Excellent

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 100% WOF Dye (Weld): Produces a rich, vibrant yellow.
• Overdye with Woad: Creates stunning, lively greens.
• Use of Soda Ash: Intensifies yellow tones and helps with colour extraction.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:

• Ingredients: 100% Weld, 7% Soda Ash, Wool (mordanted with Alum)
• Instructions:
  1. Soak Weld in the dye pot with Soda Ash overnight.
  2. Bring to a simmer for 1 hour.
  3. Strain through cloth and set aside.
  4. Add mordanted wool to the dye pot and simmer gently for 1 hour.
  5. For a paler yellow: Use the same dye bath for a second batch of mordanted yarn.
  6. Reuse the dye bath: It can be used up to 2 times for additional dyeing.

Embrace the rich tradition of Weld dye and bring centuries-old colours to your fibre projects, from vibrant yellows to lush greens when combined with Woad.

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Black Walnut Shells
Dye Colour: Earthy Light and Dark Browns | Cultivated in the USA

Using Black Walnut Shells for dyeing results in a rich, natural-looking earthy brown colour after one or two dye baths for deeper tones. This dye works especially well with silk and wool materials and is known for its excellent colour fastness.

Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) is a native North American tree known for its strong wood and high tannin content, which is ideal for natural dyeing. The shells are a rich source of tannins, giving the dye its deep, earthy brown hues. Traditionally, Black Walnut has been used for both dyeing and in herbal medicine.

Colour Fastness: Excellent

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 50% WOF Dye (Black Walnut Shells): Produces a light, earthy brown.
• 100% WOF Dye (Black Walnut Shells): Yields a deeper, richer brown.

Basic Recipe for Earthy Brown:

• Ingredients: 50% or 100% whole Black Walnuts (soaked overnight), Mordanted Fibre/Fabric

Instructions:

1. Soak the Black Walnuts in cold water overnight.
2. Bring the soaked walnuts to 80°C for one hour.
3. Strain out the shells/powder.
4. Add mordanted fibre/fabric to the dye bath and simmer at 80°C for one hour.
5. For deeper results, leave the fabric in the dye bath overnight or for up to 12 hours.
6. Rinse and dry to reveal a rich, earthy brown hue.

Unlock the rich, earthy tones of Black Walnut Shells and enjoy the depth and warmth it brings to your fabrics and yarns. Perfect for eco-conscious makers and those looking for natural, long-lasting colours.

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Organic Ground, Cut, or Whole Hibiscus Flowers
Vibrant Pink & Purple Hues for Dyeing | Cultivated in Egypt

Hibiscus flowers are an excellent choice for natural dyeing, offering stunning shades from light purples to deep pinks and even greens, depending on the mordant used. Ground Hibiscus produces a lighter purple hue on wool, while cut or whole flowers yield more vibrant tones. This pH-sensitive dye is perfect for hobby dyers and children’s activities, as it offers interesting colour shifts - from green to purple to pink -  and an experimental approach to dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Ground Hibiscus: Use 50% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for a light purple hue.
• Cut or Whole Hibiscus: Use 75-100% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for deeper tones.
• pH Sensitivity: Hibiscus dye is pH-sensitive, meaning colour can shift, creating fun and unique results—perfect for those who enjoy experimenting.

Colour Fastness: Poor (colour may shift with pH changes)

Basic Hibiscus Dye Recipe:

1. Mordanting: Use Alum (10-15%) for dyeing wool.
2. Dye Ratio:
   • For mordanted fabric or yarn: Use 50-100% Hibiscus dye relative to the weight of the dry fibre.
3. Dyeing Process:
   • Soak Hibiscus flowers or powder in water and simmer.
   • Add mordanted fabric and simmer until the desired colour is achieved.

A delightful and experimental natural dye, perfect for adding beautiful, ever-changing shades to your projects!

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Lac Dye - A Beautiful Violet to Red to Brown Colour

Lac dye is a rich and versatile natural dye, known for its use in the iconic Tibetan Monks’ tunic. Unlike the vivid brightness of cochineal red, Lac produces a more mature, wine-like red tone that evolves from violet to red, and then into a warm brown.

What is Lac?
Lac is a resinous secretion produced by several species of lac insects, with the most commonly cultivated species being Kerria lacca. The cultivation process starts when a farmer attaches a brood lac stick, containing eggs ready to hatch, to a tree. As the insects hatch, they colonise the branches of the host trees and secrete the resin that forms the pigment. The branches are then harvested and processed into stick lac, which is crushed and sieved to remove impurities. The resulting product, seed lac, is further refined to produce shellac.

Colour fastness:
Good to excellent, ensuring lasting and vibrant hues.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing with Lac:

• 3-5% Lac (based on the weight of your material)
• Wool (no mordant required)
• 10-15% Alum (if using more than 5% Lac, or if preferred)

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Lac in warm water and add it to your dye pot.
2. Immerse the wool (pre-wetted) into the dye bath, bringing it to a gentle simmer.
3. Allow the dye bath to simmer for one hour, ensuring the pigment thoroughly saturates the wool.
4. After an hour, turn off the heat and leave the wool to steep in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse the wool thoroughly and allow it to air dry.

One dye bath can be used to dye multiple skeins of yarn, making this an economical and efficient option for larger projects.

Additional Tip:
For enhanced colour depth, I would recommend a 20-minute vinegar soak after rinsing. This additional step enriches the dyed fibres and ensures a more vibrant finish.

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RHUBARB ROOT GROUND ONLY
Dye Colour: Yellow Brown, Green (with Iron), Pink (with Soda Ash) – pH and Mordant Dependent | Country of Collection: China

Rhubarb root is a captivating natural dye, producing a spectrum of colours that vary depending on the pH of the dye bath and the mordant used. Known as a Quinone dye, it is rich in tannins, which yield earthy yellow-brown and green hues with iron. A higher pH will shift the colour to delicate pinks or reds, though these tones are less colourfast. Notably, the yellow and green shades are more stable, maintaining their colour for longer.

Colour Fastness:

• Green and Yellow: Good
• Pink to Red: Poor

pH Sensitivity: High pH will shift the colour to red.

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio & pH/Mordant:

• 25% WOF Dye (Rhubarb Root): Yields a soft yellow-brown.
• 50% WOF Dye (Rhubarb Root): Produces a deeper yellow-brown with greenish hues when combined with iron.
• 100% WOF Dye (Rhubarb Root): Results in a rich yellow or green, depending on the pH and mordant used. Pink shades will develop with Soda Ash for a red hue.

Basic Recipe for Wool:

• Ingredients: 100% cut Rhubarb or 50% ground Rhubarb, Wool (mordanted with Alum)
• Optional: 3-5% Iron or 15% Soda Ash for different shades.

Instructions:

1. Soak the Rhubarb root in water overnight.
2. For wool, mordant with Alum before dyeing.
3. Simmer the Rhubarb root in water for 1-2 hours, and then strain.
4. Add the wool to the dye bath and simmer for 1 hour.
5. Leave the wool in the dye bath overnight for deeper colour.
6. Rinse and dry to reveal your stunning dye results.

Explore the versatility of Rhubarb Root as a natural dye and unlock a range of rich, pH-dependent colours in your yarn and fabric projects!

TARA POWDER ~  is a natural tanning product

Grown in the mountains of Peru.

Tara powder will stain the fibres grey and it is recommended to use a strong dye so the colour isn't too influenced. I am using it for plant dyed flax fibres and LinCot yarns and found, that it actually adds some more depth to the colour.

Basic Recipe:

Please see our blog post on How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

GLOSSY BUCKTHORN BARK DYE (Frangula alnus)
Dye Colour: Golden Yellow, Pinks, and Reds | Country of Collection: Bosnia

Glossy Buckthorn Bark is a pH-sensitive natural dye, wild-collected in Bosnia. Historically valued for its versatile colour range, it delivers golden yellow tones at a neutral pH, shifts to pink and red at higher pH levels (10–11), but it is unstable; and can yield green with the addition of iron. This bark’s gentle fragrance and good colour fastness make it a favourite among natural dyers and paint makers alike.

Colour Fastness: Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 65g Buckthorn Bark per 100g Fibre
  Produces a spectrum from golden yellow at neutral pH to rosy reds at alkaline pH (unstable), with iron modifying towards green.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients: 65g Buckthorn Bark, 100g Mordanted Wool (approx. 13g Alum)

1. Soak bark for 2 days.
2. Simmer the bark in water for 2 hours; strain through cloth.
3. Add wool/fibre (along with the bark in a dye bag if desired) and simmer 1 hour.
4. Rinse well and allow to dry.

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MYROBALAN CHEBULIC ~ a tannin used for (pre) mordanting cellulose (Cotton, Linen) Fibres. Recipe below.

ORIGN: India

Myrobalan is a very common tannin used in India and around Asia. It creates a plum-like fruit from various trees of the genus Terminalia, formerly used in medicine as a mild laxative and now used in the dyeing industry.

Myrobalan creates butter yellow on fabric, like most tannins. Tannin is important for mordanting cellulose fibres like cotton and linen. Alum alone is not a suitable mordant for cellulose fibres and its use will produce inferior colours.

Myrobalan can be used in print, over dye with indigo for teal, use as a stand alone colour or as a mordant.

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Recipe Downloadable PDF for creating Greys and Charcoal 

Basic recipe for mordanting cellulose fibres:

A 2 step process, please read through the entire instructions first.

Step 1:

Ingredients:

10% Myrobalan (10% of the weight of fabric (w.o.f.))


1.Fill a plastic or stainless steel vessel with hot water (40-50 d. Celsius/100-120F) to a 30:1 ratio (water : fabric)

2. add tannin and stir until dissolved or evenly distributed

3. add fabric, immerse fully for 1-2 hours. The bath will cool down, which is totally fine. Stir occasionally.

4. use rubber gloves when removing fabric, squeeze fabric. Rinse very lightly or better spin it out using a centrifugal spinner or washing machine. Tannin is bound to the fibre only by affinity and can be removed if rinsed aggressively.

5. save mordant for future use.

6. don't let it dry before moving to the 2nd mordanting step.

Step 2:

Ingredients:
Alum 12% (w.o.f.) Dissolved in enough boiling water, cool.
Soda Ash 1.5% (w.o.f.) Dissolve in enough boiling water, cool.

1. Combine the two solutions while stirring. It will bubble, so make sure your vessel is big enough.

2. Bubbles will subside quickly and you should be left with a clear liquid. Add additional hot water as described above. Follow steps 3 - 5 from above.

3. Rinse the textile well, to make sure any unattached mordant is rinsed off.

4. The textile may be dyed immediately or dried for future use.


Tips:

*Too hot and the tannin will oxidize, which is fine, if you want a potentially darker colour. For overdyeing, it is best to keep the colour as light as possible.
** You can also use cold water instead of hot, but it will require a 12h soak at least.
***Any tannin can be used with this recipe, but for lighter results use Oak Gall or Tara.

Enjoy!

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The Magic of Maya Blue
Turquoise Pigment for Printing & Painting | Made with Indigo | Light & Age Resistant | Crafted in Our Studio

Maya Blue is a brilliant turquoise pigment historically used by the pre-Columbian Mayan and Aztec civilizations. Revered for its vibrant hue and exceptional resistance to aging, this fascinating colour was rediscovered through archaeological findings. The secret of creating Maya Blue was uncovered by Michel Garcia, who developed a recipe to reproduce this ancient pigment in modern studios. We carefully craft this pigment ourselves, ensuring its purity and quality for your artistic projects.

Product Features:

• Made with Indigo: A rich, turquoise blue pigment ideal for artistic projects.
• Applications: Perfect for printing and painting on fabric, canvas, or strong paper, ideal for artworks, wall hangings, and more.
• Light & Age Resistant: Maya Blue maintains its brilliance over time, making it a long-lasting choice for artistic creations.
• Not Suitable for Dyeing: This pigment is intended for surface applications like painting and printing, not for dyeing fabric.

How to Use:

1. Make Your Own Soya Milk:

   • Soak 25g dry soya beans overnight in water.
   • Rinse, blend with 500ml cold water for 5-7 minutes, then strain through muslin cloth.
   • Fresh soya milk lasts 2-3 days in the fridge.

2. Prepare the Pigment:

   • Brush your canvas or fabric with soya milk and allow it to dry flat or on the line.
   • Mix Maya Blue pigment with 1 part pigment to 3 parts soya milk.
   • Add marbles or stones to the jar and shake vigorously, crushing the pigment into finer particles.

3. Apply the Pigment:

   • Use a brush, stencil, or roller to apply the pigment to your prepared surface.
   • Optionally, add guar gum to thicken the mixture.

4. Curing & Rinsing:

   • Allow the pigment to dry for 1-2 weeks.
   • Gently rinse to remove excess pigment and soya milk—vigorous washing may remove too much pigment.

Enjoy the process and let your creativity flow with this stunning, historic pigment, carefully made in our studio!

Black Mallow Rose Flowers (Hollyhock)
Latin: Malvae arbor. Flor. tot. | Botanical: Alcea rosea L.

These vibrant Black Mallow Rose Flowers, also known as Hollyhocks, are perfect for eco-printing and natural dyeing projects. When used in eco-printing, they create stunning purple-blue to violet hues on fabric, with the rich tones evolving beautifully over time. Their colour fastness ranges from weak to medium, but can be enhanced with the proper mordants.

Eco-Printing Tips:

• For deeper, more intense black and purple hues, use an iron mordant.
• For general printing or dyeing, follow a standard mordant procedure for balanced results.
• Only the petals and flowers are utilized for printing and dyeing.

Durability:

Black Mallow Rose prints can retain their colours for years, but that very much depends on light exposure and washing. The anthocyanins in the petals provide some longevity, though fading may occur with prolonged sunlight or frequent washing.

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POMEGRANATE PEELS ~ CUT & GROUND ORGANIC ~ can be used as Tannin and as yellow dye

The pomegranate is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between 5 and 10 m tall. The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region.

 Colourfastness: good - excellent

Recipe:

For how to mordant your Cellulose fibres, please see my blog post 

 How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

If you are using protein fibres, a simple 10%Alum bath will do for mordanting, but protein fibres can also be dyed without a mordant when using Pomegranate peel due to its tannin content.

Once mordanted:

Add 100% pomegranate peel to 80degrees Celcius Water for one hour. (100% of the dry Weight of your Fibre/Fabric) If using powder, stir regularly or it will burn the bottom of your pan.

After an hour, switch of the heat and add the fabric/fibre. Leave to up to 3 days, until desired depth of colour. 

Wash, rinse, dry.

 Pomegranate Powder can also be used as a tannin and for printing when combined with Alum and Guar Gum.

Catechu Dye – Dye Colour: Brown and Beige | Botanical: Acacia catechu | Produced & Processed in India

Catechu, also known as Cutch, is a versatile natural dye that produces a beautiful range of brown and beige shades on cotton, silk, and wool fibres. This dye is composed of two components: catechu-tannic acid, which dissolves in cold water, and catechin, which requires hot water for extraction. Catechu is rich in tannins and will dye without the need for a mordant, though it can also benefit from one for brighter results. Some even suggest Catechu may help those with eczema – an added bonus for a naturally healing dye!

Colour Fastness: Good

Product Details:

• Dye Colour: Brown and Beige
• Perfect for: Cotton, silk, and wool fibres
• Mordant Optional: Alum for brighter colours, Iron for darker results

Basic Recipe:

1. Ingredients:
   • 200g wool (mordant optional)
   • 20g Catechu extract (made into paste with boiling water)
2. Instructions:
   • Add the Catechu paste to the dye pot with hot water and stir regularly.
   • Add the mordanted wool and simmer for 1 hour.
   • Leave the wool in the dye bath overnight for a deeper colour.
   • Let the wool oxidize before rinsing.

Note:

• Catechu is difficult to exhaust, meaning you can add more wool later for lighter tones.
• Mordanting the wool with Alum will give brighter results, but Catechu will still produce rich browns without it. For darker shades, use an Iron mordant.

Enjoy the versatility of Catechu dye and explore its potential for a wide range of beautiful brown and beige hues in your projects!

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FUSTIC HARDWOOD ~ Dyer's Mulberry, Old Fustic or Yellowwood
Dye Colour: Yellow and Green | Country of Collection: Unknown (Typically sourced from tropical regions) | Maclura tinctoria or Chlorophora tinctoria 

Fustic, introduced to Europe in the 16th century, is a classic natural dye that produces vibrant yellow tones and clear greens when overdyed with indigo. Sourced from the hardwood of the Chlorophora or Morus tinctoria tree, a member of the Mulberry family, Fustic is known for its strength, requiring only 50% of the dye by weight of fibre (W.D.F.). The wood chips used for dyeing are reusable, allowing for multiple dye baths.

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 50% WOF Dye (Fustic): Produces a bright, clear yellow hue.
• Overdye with Indigo: Results in a clear, vibrant green.
• With 3% Iron: Transforms the dye into an olive green tone.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:

• Ingredients: 50% Fustic cut, 10% Alum
• Instructions:
  1. Mordant the yarn by dissolving Alum in hot water and adding the yarn. Let it steep overnight.
  2. Steep the Fustic woodchips in hot water overnight.
  3. The next day, rinse the mordanted yarn.
  4. Strain the Fustic dye and let it dry for an additional day.
  5. Add the mordanted yarn to the dye bath and heat to 85°C for 1 hour.
  6. Rinse and dry the yarn.
  7. Reusing Dye: If using the dye again, boil it for 45 minutes to deepen the yellow colour.

Unlock the potential of this traditional dye, whether you're looking for a rich yellow, earthy green, or vibrant hues when combined with other dyes like Indigo.

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SAFFLOWER DYE (Carthamus tinctorius)
Dye Colour: Soft Yellow and Red | Country of Collection: Iran

Safflower, a thistle-like plant native to arid environments, offers a stunning soft yellow and red dye, making it a great choice for dyeing natural fibres like linen and cotton. While it produces a warm red, the process to extract this colour is intricate, requiring extended soaking, kneading, and rinsing. By adjusting the pH and repeating these steps, you can achieve a richer red tone on plant-based fibres. This lengthy process is well worth the effort for those seeking vibrant hues, especially for linen, cotton, and other plant fibres.

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 100% WOF Dye (Safflower): Soft yellow tones for protein fibres.
• After removal of the yellow dye: Richer red tones for plant-based fibres. 

Basic Recipe for Yellow:
Ingredients:

• 100g Safflower
• 100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 15g)

Instructions:

1. Soak the Safflower dye in water overnight.
2. Bring the dye pot to a simmer for 1 hour.
3. Strain the dye through cloth and add mordanted yarn or fibre to the dye bath.
4. Simmer for 1 hour and rinse to reveal a soft yellow colour.

Notes:

• Yellow is ideal for protein fibres, red for cellulose only.
• For richer red tones: Repeat soaking, kneading, and rinsing in a high pH environment.
• Safflower produces a softer, warm yellow dye but can yield red after more intensive preparation.

Embrace the natural beauty of Safflower dye and create stunning, soft yellow and red tones for your textile or paper projects.

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OAK BARK DYE (Quercus spp.)
Dye Colour: Golden Beige and Browns | Country of Collection: Poland

Oak Bark is a tannin-rich, natural dye source used for centuries to achieve warm, earthy tones on wool and silk. Thanks to its high tannin content, no mordant is strictly necessary, but will result in better colour fastness. Experimenting with iron and adding oak galls can deepen or modify your results. Lighter beige tones emerge with lower pH (around 5), and deeper browns develop under higher pH (around 8), though iron is a more stable solution for darker tones.

Colour Fastness: Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 50–100% WOF Oak Bark
  Produces a range of golden beige to medium browns, with the flexibility to go darker by adjusting the pH or boosting tannins with oak galls.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients:

• 50–100% Oak Bark (by weight of fibre)
• Wool or Silk (mordant not strictly necessary due to high tannin content)

Instructions:

1. Soak the oak bark overnight in water.
2. Simmer the soaked bark for 2 hours, then strain through a cloth.
3. Add wool or silk to the dye bath.
4. Simmer gently for 1 hour.
5. Cool & Rest: Allow the fibre to soak in the dye bath overnight to deepen the colour.
6. Rinse & Dry: Rinse the dyed fibre in cool water and hang to dry.

Embrace the rich tradition of oak bark dye and bring timeless, organic hues to your fibre projects—perfect for both beginners and seasoned natural dyers.

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ORGANIC HEATHER DYE (Calluna vulgaris)
Dye Colour: Golden Yellow and Green-Brown | Country of Collection: Croatia

This organic heather dye (Calluna vulgaris) is wild-harvested in Croatia and includes the aerial parts of the plant—stems, leaves, and remaining flowers—making it a strong and versatile botanical dye. Traditionally used for colouring wool and tweed, it produces rich golden yellows and green-browns, especially when modified with iron.

Due to its natural tannin content, this heather dye is perfect for creating deeper, earthier tones that reflect the plant’s native landscape.

Colour Fastness: Poor - Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 100–200% Heather Dye (WOF) → 
• Produces golden yellow tones
  • Add 3% Iron for olive green or green-brown hues

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients:
• 100–200% Heather (by weight of fibre)
• 10% Alum (for mordanting)
• Optional: 3% Iron

Instructions:

1. Mordant the yarn: Dissolve alum in hot water, add yarn, and leave overnight.
2. Extract the dye: Simmer heather in water at 85°C (185°F) for 1 hour. Strain.
3. Rinse mordanted yarn.
4. Add yarn to dye bath and heat to 85°C (185°F) for 1 hour or leave overnight.
5. Rinse and dry.

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ORGANIC SAGE OFFICINALIS CUT
Dye Colour: Greenish Yellow and Green | Country of Origin: Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sage (Salvia officinalis) is a perennial, evergreen subshrub from the Mediterranean region, now widely cultivated for its culinary, medicinal, and dyeing properties. These cut, organic leaves produce soft greenish-yellow tones in natural dyeing, which can be shifted to richer greens with the addition of iron. Perfect for those seeking a versatile herb that is both fine for consumption and ideal for natural dye projects.

Colour Fastness: Good to Excellent

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 100% WOF Sage – Produces greenish-yellow hues
• Add 3–5% Iron – Shifts colour to deeper greens

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients:

• 100% Sage (by weight of fibre)
• 3–5% Iron (optional)
• Wool or other protein fibres (mordanted with Alum)

Instructions:

1. Soak or steep sage (fresh or dried) before dyeing.
2. Bring to a gentle simmer, then add mordanted yarn or fibre.
3. Simmer for approximately 1 hour to develop colour.
4. For green hues, add iron as a pre or after mordant.

Also available as a downloadable Sage recipe PDF and a convenient dye kit. Whether you use sage for a soothing herbal infusion, a fragrant addition to meals, or a natural colourant for your favourite yarn, this ancient herb connects your creative and culinary pursuits to centuries of tradition. Enjoy the earthy beauty that sage brings to your natural dye projects.

ALKANET ~ Dye Colour: Purple, grey

Our ALKANET ROOT is harvested in India. Its colour ranges from purple to blue to grey, depending on the extraction method and mordants used. Please note that alcohol extraction is necessary for obtaining true purples.

Colour fastness: Poor

Though we sell alkanet in our shop, I never use it. It isn't lightfast and due to needing a heated alcoholic solution it can become quite pricey when living in Ireland! However, if you would like to give it a go, alkanet is a mordant dye after extraction. 

• To extract 65g of powdered root you need to heat 1litre of 35% alcohol to 40C/104F. 
• Once extracted add the 1litre to a dyebath of 2-8L. 
• Add your mordanted textiles and proceed as usual. 

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ORGANIC NETTLES ~ Used as herb and dye. Dye Colour yellow and green.

Country of Origin: Hungary

Urtica Fol. Organic, often known as common nettle, stinging nettle or nettle leaf, or just a nettle or stinger, is a herbaceous perennial flowering plant in the family Urticaceae. Originally native to Europe it has now spread worldwide.

Nettles have been used since ancient times and can be eaten, are used in herbal medicine and dyeing.

Nettles can be used fresh and dry - similar to Lovage, the best results are achieved with fresh plants, but dried plant material works well as well.

Colourfastness: medium

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Basic recipe:

100-200% Nettle (100% if using fresh only)
3-5% Iron
Wool (mordanted 10% Alum)

Line the pot with a cloth. Fill the pot half with water and add the nettle.
Bring to about 85-95 degrees Celsius for 1 hour.

Tie dye in Cloth and leave in bath.
Add wool and simmer gently for 1 hour.

Add 3% -5% iron to the dye bath to turn it green.

Remove after about 10min, rinse & dry.

ANNATTO – ORGANIC, NON-ORGANIC & POWDERED

Botanical name: Bixa orellana
Dye colour: Yellow, orange, copper

Wool, silk, cotton and linen can all be dyed successfully with annatto. It yields warm yellows to rich orange tones and combines beautifully with other dyes such as cochineal and madder for extended colour ranges.

We offer three forms of annatto due to availability:
• Organic Whole Seeds – Wild harvested in Côte d'Ivoire
• Non-Organic Whole Seeds – Standard dye grade
• Non-Organic Powdered Seeds – Finely ground for quicker extraction and even application

Colour Range & Combinations

• Use with cochineal and cream of tartar for orange-red colours
• Pre-dye silk with madder, then add to an annatto bath for copper-orange
• Combine with tartaric acid to achieve yolk yellow

The dye is not very lightfast and may need to be refreshed after a few years. However, blending annatto with cochineal improves durability.

Basic Recipe for Yellow

100 g wool or silk, mordanted with 15% alum and 10% cream of tartar
100 g annatto seeds

1. Soak annatto seeds overnight with 10 g soda ash

2. Blend the soaked seeds and simmer for 1 hour

3. Strain through cloth and tie off seeds in a dye bag

4. Add silk to dye bath for 20 minutes at 80 °C

5. Remove silk; simmer wool in the same bath for 1 hour (without dye bag)

6. Return silk for an additional 15 minutes

This bath can be reused for lighter yellow-orange tones.
Pre-soaking wool in a vinegar bath for 10 minutes can enhance the brightness of the final shade.

In a nutshell

• Material: Annatto seeds (whole or powdered)
• Botanical name: Bixa orellana
• Grades offered: Organic, non-organic, powdered
• Dye colours: Yellow, orange, orange-red, copper
• Fibre compatibility: Wool, silk, linen, cotton
• Fastness: Poor to medium
• Best used with: Cochineal, madder, cream of tartar, tartaric acid

OAK MOSS ~ Dye colour Champange Beige to Brown

*Oak Moss from responsibly harvested forests in Mazedonia.

Champagne is the closest colour I can think of to describe the colour obtained by Oak Moss. You can influence the nuances by adding different mordants, but generally no mordant is necessary.
Oak Moss is also used for Soap making to add texture and scrub to the soap.

Colourfastness: good

From Wikipedia
Evernia prunastri, also known as Oak Moss, is a species of lichen. It can be found in many mountainous temperate forests throughout the Northern Hemisphere, including parts of France, Portugal, Spain, North America, and much of Central Europe. Oak moss grows primarily on the trunk and branches of oak trees, but is also commonly found on the bark of other deciduous trees and conifers such as fir and pine. The thalli of oak moss are short (3–4 cm in length) and bushy, and grow together on bark to form large clumps. Oak moss thallus is flat and strap-like. They are also highly branched, resembling the form of deer antlers. The colour of oak moss ranges from green to a greenish-white when dry, and dark olive-green to yellow-green when wet. The texture of the thalli are rough when dry and rubbery when wet. It is used extensively in modern perfumery. 

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A basic Recipe:

50% oak moss or more
wool/yarn ~ no mordant needed

Simmer moss for 3 hours.
Strain through Cloth.

Add wet wool to the dye pot.

Let it simmer for 1h, cool and leave overnight.

Rinse and dry.

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Organic European Solidago
Dye Colour: Yellow, Orange, and Green | Organically Grown in Poland

Our Organic Solidago, also known as Goldenrod, is carefully grown and harvested in Europe, specifically Poland. Solidago is a genus of flowering plants in the aster family, with species found across meadows, prairies, and savannas, and is native to North America. This beautiful plant produces vibrant yellow, orange, and green hues when used for natural dyeing, making it a versatile addition to your dyeing projects.

Colour Fastness: Medium - Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 25% WOF Dye (Solidago): Produces a soft, pale yellow hue.
• 50% WOF Dye (Solidago): Yields a deeper, vibrant yellow.
• 100% WOF Dye (Solidago): Results in a rich, golden yellow with orange undertones.

Basic Recipe for Yellow:

• Ingredients: 100% Solidago, Wool (Alum Mordant 10%)
• Instructions:
  • Soak the Solidago leaves for 1 day or overnight.
  • Boil the soaked leaves for 1 hour and drain.
  • Simmer the yarn in the dye bath for up to 1 hour.
  • Rinse and dry to reveal a stunning yellow hue.

Unlock the potential of this naturally vibrant dye and enjoy the rich colours it brings to your fabrics and yarns.

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MADDER EXTRACT ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

Madder Extract is a premium natural dye derived from the roots of the Rubia tinctorum plant. Known for its rich history and vibrant red tones, Madder Extract creates hues that range from soft pinks to deep, earthy reds. This versatile extract also works as a mordant, enhancing dye absorption and improving colour fastness on cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp.

We offer two kinds of Madder: Standard Madder and Madder III.

• Madder III will create rich red hues on all textiles.
• Standard Madder creates reds on wool and pinks/oranges on cellulose fibres.

Key Features:

• Natural Dye: Produces beautiful shades from soft pinks and coral to deep reds and terracotta.
• Ideal for all textiles: Perfect for dyeing wool, silk, cotton, linen, hemp, and other plant-based fabrics.
• Rich in Anthraquinones: Known for producing vibrant and long-lasting colours.

How to Use:

• For Light Tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).
• For Medium Shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For Deep, Rich Hues: Use 20–30% WOF.
• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron (1–3% WOF) to achieve deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for best results. For optimal colour retention and depth, use Madder Extract in combination with other mordants.

Sustainably Sourced:

Madder plants are grown across Europe and Asia, where their roots have been prized for centuries in textile dyeing. Known for their vibrant, red hues, Madder Extract is an eco-friendly option for creating sustainable and striking colours in your textile projects.

Perfect for Eco-Conscious Crafters:

Whether you're a textile artist, natural dyer, or eco-friendly crafter, Madder Extract offers a versatile, sustainable dye solution for your projects. Discover the timeless beauty of Madder and add rich, natural colour to your creations!

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