OAK GALL
Use: Cellulose Fibre Mordant | Harvested From: Aleppo Oak in Turkey | Also Known As: Oak Apple | Recipe: link below

Oak Gall, also known as Oak Apple, is harvested from the Aleppo Oak in Turkey and is a traditional mordant used for cellulose fibres. Due to its high tannin content, it is an effective mordant for preparing cellulose-based fabrics for natural dyeing. Unlike other tannin-based mordants, Oak Gall only stains the cellulose fibre a light beige, making it a preferred choice for delicate dyeing projects.

Key Features:

• High tannin content for cellulose mordanting
• Minimal staining cellulose fibres
• Available whole, cut, or ground

Function:
Oak Gall is used to prepare cellulose fibres for natural dyeing, helping the dye adhere to the fabric without leaving stains. Its high tannin content ensures vibrant and durable colours on cellulose fabrics like cotton, linen, and hemp. 

Storage & Usage:

• Available in whole, cut, or ground form.
• Store in a cool, dry place.

Perfect for natural dyers and textile artists working with cellulose fibre. Please see this recipe for mordanting cellulose with Gallotannin

TARA POWDER ~  is a natural tanning product

Grown in the mountains of Peru.

Tara powder will stain the fibres grey and it is recommended to use a strong dye so the colour isn't too influenced. I am using it for plant dyed flax fibres and LinCot yarns and found, that it actually adds some more depth to the colour.

Basic Recipe:

Please see our blog post on How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

MYROBALAN CHEBULIC ~ a tannin used for (pre) mordanting cellulose (Cotton, Linen) Fibres. Recipe below.

ORIGN: India

Myrobalan is a very common tannin used in India and around Asia. It creates a plum-like fruit from various trees of the genus Terminalia, formerly used in medicine as a mild laxative and now used in the dyeing industry.

Myrobalan creates butter yellow on fabric, like most tannins. Tannin is important for mordanting cellulose fibres like cotton and linen. Alum alone is not a suitable mordant for cellulose fibres and its use will produce inferior colours.

Myrobalan can be used in print, over dye with indigo for teal, use as a stand alone colour or as a mordant.

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Recipe Downloadable PDF for creating Greys and Charcoal 

Basic recipe for mordanting cellulose fibres:

A 2 step process, please read through the entire instructions first.

Step 1:

Ingredients:

10% Myrobalan (10% of the weight of fabric (w.o.f.))


1.Fill a plastic or stainless steel vessel with hot water (40-50 d. Celsius/100-120F) to a 30:1 ratio (water : fabric)

2. add tannin and stir until dissolved or evenly distributed

3. add fabric, immerse fully for 1-2 hours. The bath will cool down, which is totally fine. Stir occasionally.

4. use rubber gloves when removing fabric, squeeze fabric. Rinse very lightly or better spin it out using a centrifugal spinner or washing machine. Tannin is bound to the fibre only by affinity and can be removed if rinsed aggressively.

5. save mordant for future use.

6. don't let it dry before moving to the 2nd mordanting step.

Step 2:

Ingredients:
Alum 12% (w.o.f.) Dissolved in enough boiling water, cool.
Soda Ash 1.5% (w.o.f.) Dissolve in enough boiling water, cool.

1. Combine the two solutions while stirring. It will bubble, so make sure your vessel is big enough.

2. Bubbles will subside quickly and you should be left with a clear liquid. Add additional hot water as described above. Follow steps 3 - 5 from above.

3. Rinse the textile well, to make sure any unattached mordant is rinsed off.

4. The textile may be dyed immediately or dried for future use.


Tips:

*Too hot and the tannin will oxidize, which is fine, if you want a potentially darker colour. For overdyeing, it is best to keep the colour as light as possible.
** You can also use cold water instead of hot, but it will require a 12h soak at least.
***Any tannin can be used with this recipe, but for lighter results use Oak Gall or Tara.

Enjoy!

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POMEGRANATE PEELS ~ CUT & GROUND ORGANIC ~ can be used as Tannin and as yellow dye

The pomegranate is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between 5 and 10 m tall. The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region.

 Colourfastness: good - excellent

Recipe:

For how to mordant your Cellulose fibres, please see my blog post 

 How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

If you are using protein fibres, a simple 10%Alum bath will do for mordanting, but protein fibres can also be dyed without a mordant when using Pomegranate peel due to its tannin content.

Once mordanted:

Add 100% pomegranate peel to 80degrees Celcius Water for one hour. (100% of the dry Weight of your Fibre/Fabric) If using powder, stir regularly or it will burn the bottom of your pan.

After an hour, switch of the heat and add the fabric/fibre. Leave to up to 3 days, until desired depth of colour. 

Wash, rinse, dry.

 Pomegranate Powder can also be used as a tannin and for printing when combined with Alum and Guar Gum.

Dock Yellow Root – Cut
Source: Rumex spp. (Dock family)

Dock Yellow Root, cut and dried, is a traditional dye source used to create warm yellows and coral-pink tones on protein fibres. Thanks to its anthraquinone content, it offers colour versatility depending on the pH of your bath:

• In acidic to neutral conditions, expect golden yellows.

• In alkaline baths, it shifts to peachy or pink hues, particularly on silk.

This root also provides mild tannin action, making it suitable for cellulose.

Main Components:

• Anthraquinones

• Mild tannins

• Oxalates (naturally occurring)

Suggested Quantities (WOF):

• 30–50% for strong shades

• Simmer gently for 45–60 minutes

• Soak overnight to increase yield

Uses:

• Yellow and pink dyeing on wool & silk

• Alkaline baths for peach/pink tones

• Mild tannin pretreatment for cellulose

• Historical dyeing and iron modification

The Plant: Dock plants (Rumex spp.) grow widely in Europe. While often overlooked, the roots are rich in traditional dye compounds, producing yellow to coral tones with a rustic, natural charm.

Light Fastness: Medium

Form: Cut dried root

Tips:
Soak overnight before simmering. Adjust bath pH to explore colour shifts.

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Please note: cut root bark is currently out of stock but will be restocked soon.

Barberry Root Bark – Ground & Cut
Source: Berberis spp. (Barberry)

Barberry root bark is a traditional dye material valued for its high content of berberine, a potent plant alkaloid that yields clear, brilliant yellows on protein fibres. When modified with iron, it shifts to olive greens, making it a versatile addition to any natural dyer’s toolkit.

This listing includes ground root bark for quick extraction and cut bark for longer decoctions or soaking methods.

Barberry is known for its excellent light fastness, especially on wool and silk.

Main Components:

• Berberine (alkaloid)

• Alkaloid-rich tannins

Suggested Quantities (WOF):

• 20–30% for clear yellow

• With iron: 25–40% for olive tones

• Simmer gently for 60 minutes

Uses:

• Brilliant yellow dyeing on wool and silk

• Olive green shades with iron

• Layered plant dyeing with tannins and modifiers

• Historical dyeing and pigment preparation

The Plant: Barberry is a spiny shrub found across Europe and Asia. The root bark is its most dye-rich part, containing vibrant yellow berberine compounds also used in traditional medicine and inks.

Light Fastness:
High (excellent retention on protein fibres)

Form:
Ground and cut root bark

Tips:
Try layering with tannins like oak gall or sumac to deepen tone. Use on its own for luminous yellows, or with iron sulfate for olive greens.

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Horse Chestnut Bark – Cut

Source: Aesculus hippocastanum

Cut Horse Chestnut Bark is a lesser-known but valuable source of natural tannins, especially effective for cellulose fibre preparation, natural greys with iron, and historical dye practices. This bark contains condensed tannins, making it well suited for textile work on both plant and animal fibres.

Our bark is coarsely cut and ideal for slow dyeing, decoctions, or tannin-rich soaks. It can be used alone or combined with other tannins or metal salts for complex tones and improved mordant adhesion.

Main Components:

• Condensed tannins
• Flavonoids
• Saponins (minor)

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• 20–80% WOF for decoction or fibre soak
• Simmer for 1 hour or soak overnight
• Use hot or cool for varied tones

Uses:

• Pre-treatment of Cellulose Fibres – improves mordant take-up
• Iron Modification – yields soft greys and warm browns
• Natural Dyeing – use alone or as a tannin base
• Historical Dye Methods – suitable for re-enactment dyeing and archival processes

The Plant:

Horse chestnut is a deciduous tree native to southeastern Europe, now naturalised across Ireland and the UK. Its bark has long been used in folk medicine and traditional dyeing for its tannin content and gentle tones. When modified with iron, it reveals subtle grey-browns, ideal for grounding brighter botanical colours.

Light Fastness:

Medium to High (when used with a mordant)

Form:

• Coarse-cut bark
• Not water-soluble; requires simmering or soaking

🌿 Tip: Combine with iron sulphate for muted greys, or use as a base layer in multi-step dyeing on cellulose fibres.

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Quebracho Bark – Cut & Ground

Source: Schinopsis lorentzii (Quebracho Colorado)

Quebracho bark is a warm-toned, condensed tannin-rich material traditionally used in natural dyeing, leather tanning and fibre pre-treatment. We offer both cut bark and ground bark, each suitable for slow processes and earthy beige tones.

• Cut Bark: Ideal for decoctions and slow extractions
• Ground Bark: Finely milled for quicker infusion and stronger colour release

🌿 For those looking for faster solubility, our Quebracho Extract is available as a separate listing.

Main Components:

• Condensed tannins
• Flavonoids (including fisetin & dihydrofisetin)

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

Cut or Ground Bark
• 30–50% WOF (soaked overnight or simmered 1 hour)

Extract (sold separately, see link below)
• 5–15% WOF (dissolves directly in water)

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres – beige
• Iron Modification – create grey, warm taupe or darker brown/beige shades
• Tannin Pre-treatment for Cellulose – use prior to mordanting
• Ink & Surface Design – ground bark can be brewed into concentrated liquids

The Plant:

Native to Argentina and Paraguay, Schinopsis lorentzii (Quebracho Colorado) is a dense hardwood whose bark yields powerful condensed tannins. A favourite among natural dyers for its earthy, iron-reactive shades and broad fibre compatibility.

Light Fastness:

Medium to High (especially with iron modifier)

Form Options:

• Cut Bark – coarse, for slow extractions and decoctions
• Ground Bark – finer, for quicker and deeper colour releases
• Powdered Extract (sold separately) – fast-dissolving, highly concentrated

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