Madder Dye – Cut or Ground
Rich Natural Reds for Dyeing | Wild-Harvested in Eastern Europe

Madder (Rubia tinctorum) is a renowned natural dye that produces a stunning range of reds—from warm oranges and rich brick reds to deep blood reds and fiery crimson tones. The final shade depends on multiple factors, including soil conditions, root age, mineral content of the water, dyeing temperature, and fibre-to-dye ratio.

Dyeing Tips:

• Mordanting: Avoid cream of tartar when mordanting cold. 
• Soaking: Pre-soak fibres for at least 12h-24h before dyeing.
• Dyeing Methods: Madder can be used in both hot and cold dye baths. Adding chalk can help achieve better reds.

Colour Fastness: Excellent – Madder is known for its durability and deep, lasting hues.

Discover the beauty of natural dyeing with madder and create your own unique reds!

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Recipe for Wool: Downloadable PDF 

Recipe for Plant fibres: Downloadable PDF

Also available as dye kit!

Madder Dye Kit for Plant Fibers: Available Here »

Madder Dye Kit for wool & Silk: Available Here »

Basic Madder Dye Recipe

(Adjust quantities as needed to achieve your desired shade. Water quality will influence colour result. Oranges instead of reds are often more likely)

Ingredients:

• 100g dried madder roots (soaked overnight and blended if possible, or use ground)
• 100g mordanted fiber (Alum-treated)
  • Use 50g of fibre for darker reds or 300g for lighter shades
• 7–10 liters of water
• 6g calcium carbonate (chalk) (optional, for enhanced reds)

Instructions:

1. Soak the madder roots in the dye pot overnight.
2. Gently heat to 65°C (149°F) and maintain for one hour for red tones.
   • Higher temperatures will shift the colour towards brown.
3. Strain the dye bath through a cloth to remove root particles.
4. Add the mordanted fibre and the dye bag (optional, might result in uneven colour) back into the pot.
5. Maintain a temperature between 65–95°C (149–203°F) for one hour to develop the colour.

IMPORTANT: The higher the temperature, the darker and browner the final shade.

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OAK GALL
Use: Cellulose Fibre Mordant | Harvested From: Aleppo Oak in Turkey | Also Known As: Oak Apple | Recipe: link below

Oak Gall, also known as Oak Apple, is harvested from the Aleppo Oak in Turkey and is a traditional mordant used for cellulose fibres. Due to its high tannin content, it is an effective mordant for preparing cellulose-based fabrics for natural dyeing. Unlike other tannin-based mordants, Oak Gall only stains the cellulose fibre a light beige, making it a preferred choice for delicate dyeing projects.

Key Features:

• High tannin content for cellulose mordanting
• Minimal staining cellulose fibres
• Available whole, cut, or ground

Function:
Oak Gall is used to prepare cellulose fibres for natural dyeing, helping the dye adhere to the fabric without leaving stains. Its high tannin content ensures vibrant and durable colours on cellulose fabrics like cotton, linen, and hemp. 

Storage & Usage:

• Available in whole, cut, or ground form.
• Store in a cool, dry place.

Perfect for natural dyers and textile artists working with cellulose fibre. Please see this recipe for mordanting cellulose with Gallotannin

Logwood Dye

Dye Colour: Blue, Purple & Black | Collected in the Wild in Haiti

Logwood, also known as Bois de Campeche or Campeachy Wood, is a natural, pH-sensitive dye that originates from wood found in Central America. This versatile dye creates stunning blues, purples, and deep blacks on wool, cotton, and silk. While its colour fastness is considered poor by experienced dyers, Logwood is commonly used in combination with other dyes to achieve rich, deep blacks. Perfect for eco-conscious artists, Logwood is available as cut or ground bark for your dyeing projects.

Colour Fastness: Poor (best used with other dyes for black)

Product Details:

• Dye Colour: Blue, Purple, and Black
• Perfect for: Wool, cotton, and silk
• Mordant: Alum (10%) for best results

Basic Recipe (Using Ground Bark):

1. Ingredients:

   • 65g Logwood bark (soaked for 2 days)
   • 100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 10%)

Instructions:

• Bring the soaked bark to a simmer for 2 hours.
• Strain through cloth and add the yarn/fibre and dye bag to the dye bath.
• Simmer for 1 hour and then rinse.

Alternatively, soak the Logwood chips overnight, then boil for 1 hour before use.

For Logwood extract, please visit our Natural Dye Extracts Page.

Explore the potential of Logwood Dye for a range of vibrant blues, purples, and blacks in your natural dyeing projects!

Organic Ground, Cut, or Whole Hibiscus Flowers
Vibrant Pink & Purple Hues for Dyeing | Cultivated in Egypt

Hibiscus flowers are an excellent choice for natural dyeing, offering stunning shades from light purples to deep pinks and even greens, depending on the mordant used. Ground Hibiscus produces a lighter purple hue on wool, while cut or whole flowers yield more vibrant tones. This pH-sensitive dye is perfect for hobby dyers and children’s activities, as it offers interesting colour shifts - from green to purple to pink -  and an experimental approach to dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Ground Hibiscus: Use 50% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for a light purple hue.
• Cut or Whole Hibiscus: Use 75-100% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for deeper tones.
• pH Sensitivity: Hibiscus dye is pH-sensitive, meaning colour can shift, creating fun and unique results—perfect for those who enjoy experimenting.

Colour Fastness: Poor (colour may shift with pH changes)

Basic Hibiscus Dye Recipe:

1. Mordanting: Use Alum (10-15%) for dyeing wool.
2. Dye Ratio:
   • For mordanted fabric or yarn: Use 50-100% Hibiscus dye relative to the weight of the dry fibre.
3. Dyeing Process:
   • Soak Hibiscus flowers or powder in water and simmer.
   • Add mordanted fabric and simmer until the desired colour is achieved.

A delightful and experimental natural dye, perfect for adding beautiful, ever-changing shades to your projects!

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GLOSSY BUCKTHORN BARK DYE (Frangula alnus)
Dye Colour: Golden Yellow, Pinks, and Reds | Country of Collection: Bosnia

Glossy Buckthorn Bark is a pH-sensitive natural dye, wild-collected in Bosnia. Historically valued for its versatile colour range, it delivers golden yellow tones at a neutral pH, shifts to pink and red at higher pH levels (10–11), but it is unstable; and can yield green with the addition of iron. This bark’s gentle fragrance and good colour fastness make it a favourite among natural dyers and paint makers alike.

Colour Fastness: Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 65g Buckthorn Bark per 100g Fibre
  Produces a spectrum from golden yellow at neutral pH to rosy reds at alkaline pH (unstable), with iron modifying towards green.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients: 65g Buckthorn Bark, 100g Mordanted Wool (approx. 13g Alum)

1. Soak bark for 2 days.
2. Simmer the bark in water for 2 hours; strain through cloth.
3. Add wool/fibre (along with the bark in a dye bag if desired) and simmer 1 hour.
4. Rinse well and allow to dry.

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POMEGRANATE PEELS ~ CUT & GROUND ORGANIC ~ can be used as Tannin and as yellow dye

The pomegranate is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between 5 and 10 m tall. The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region.

 Colourfastness: good - excellent

Recipe:

For how to mordant your Cellulose fibres, please see my blog post 

 How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

If you are using protein fibres, a simple 10%Alum bath will do for mordanting, but protein fibres can also be dyed without a mordant when using Pomegranate peel due to its tannin content.

Once mordanted:

Add 100% pomegranate peel to 80degrees Celcius Water for one hour. (100% of the dry Weight of your Fibre/Fabric) If using powder, stir regularly or it will burn the bottom of your pan.

After an hour, switch of the heat and add the fabric/fibre. Leave to up to 3 days, until desired depth of colour. 

Wash, rinse, dry.

 Pomegranate Powder can also be used as a tannin and for printing when combined with Alum and Guar Gum.

FUSTIC HARDWOOD ~ Dyer's Mulberry, Old Fustic or Yellowwood
Dye Colour: Yellow and Green | Country of Collection: Unknown (Typically sourced from tropical regions) | Maclura tinctoria or Chlorophora tinctoria 

Fustic, introduced to Europe in the 16th century, is a classic natural dye that produces vibrant yellow tones and clear greens when overdyed with indigo. Sourced from the hardwood of the Chlorophora or Morus tinctoria tree, a member of the Mulberry family, Fustic is known for its strength, requiring only 50% of the dye by weight of fibre (W.D.F.). The wood chips used for dyeing are reusable, allowing for multiple dye baths.

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 50% WOF Dye (Fustic): Produces a bright, clear yellow hue.
• Overdye with Indigo: Results in a clear, vibrant green.
• With 3% Iron: Transforms the dye into an olive green tone.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:

• Ingredients: 50% Fustic cut, 10% Alum
• Instructions:
  1. Mordant the yarn by dissolving Alum in hot water and adding the yarn. Let it steep overnight.
  2. Steep the Fustic woodchips in hot water overnight.
  3. The next day, rinse the mordanted yarn.
  4. Strain the Fustic dye and let it dry for an additional day.
  5. Add the mordanted yarn to the dye bath and heat to 85°C for 1 hour.
  6. Rinse and dry the yarn.
  7. Reusing Dye: If using the dye again, boil it for 45 minutes to deepen the yellow colour.

Unlock the potential of this traditional dye, whether you're looking for a rich yellow, earthy green, or vibrant hues when combined with other dyes like Indigo.

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Dried Organic Walnut Shells
Rich Golden & Dark Browns for Dyeing | Wild-Harvested in Croatia

Walnut shells are a natural dye source, producing beautiful golden to deep brown hues. While fresh green husks yield the richest browns, dried shells provide an accessible and effective alternative—perfect for wool and silk dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Mordanting: Tannins in walnut shells assist in dyeing, but a mordant can enhance colour depth.
• Soaking: Pre-soak the shells overnight for better colour extraction.
• Dyeing Methods: Can be used with or without a mordant—experiment to find your preferred shade.

Colour Fastness: Good – Excellent

Basic Walnut Shell Dye Recipe

(Adjust quantities as needed for different shades.)

Ingredients:

• 100% walnut shells by weight of fibre
• Wool (mordant optional)

Instructions:

1. Soak walnut shells overnight.
2. Simmer for 2 hours, then strain through cloth.
3. Add wool to the dye bath and simmer for 1 hour.
4. Let cool and leave in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse and dry.

A sustainable and traditional way to achieve rich, earthy browns in your fibre projects!