Organic natural Indigo ~ Dye colour Blue 

[our Indigo is NOT synthetic]

Country of Origin: India 

The advantage in dyeing with Indigo is, that no mordant is needed.  The water doesn't need to be heated to more than 40 degrees Celsius and a little goes a long way. We can dye 3-4 kg of Wool using 50g of Indigo. 

There are many ways of dyeing with Indigo. Below you will find the recipe for a yeast vat.  For a straight forward no-waiting-required approach, you can use Hydros as an oxygen remover. Waiting time approx. one hour.

Colourfastness: Excellent for dark colours, good for lighter colours

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Basic Recipe ~

It is possible to create a vat from indigo, lime (calcium hydroxide) and over-ripe fruit such as bananas or dates that relies on the chemistry of the sugars* rather than fermentation of the fruit. But it’s easier to simply use fructose shared in

Our Organic Sugar Vat Recipe

Or for a more lightfast solution go for the recipe below or for a quick Vat, use the Hydros Vat, but it does use a chemical oxygen remover.

Our Hydros Vat Recipe

Both recipe are also available as dye Kits

FERMENTATION USING YEAST:

For 500gr wool etc. at one time . (amount can be repeated several times using the same bath)

 9l water

dye container with lid
separate pot for the water bath to add the container
110gr sugar
50gr dried yeast with out preservatives etc.
30gr bicarbonate of soda
40gr ground Indigo
thermometer

This Method requires the dye bath to be on a constant 40 degrees Celsius and shouldn't exceed 50 degrees Celsius. Ideally put the dye pot in a water bath on a wire rack to ensure even distribution of temperature. 

1. Fill pot with 9l of water and heat to 40 degrees Celsius. 

2. Mix sugar and yeast and add to the water. Leave until dissolved and bubbly. 

3. Dissolve soda in a glass with hot water and add the dye, stir until smooth. Add to yeast mixture. 

4. Close lid and ideally put into a bin bag, you want it as air locked as possible. Leave at steady temperature for 8 hours. 

5. Lift lid and stir carefully until all the foamed Indigo has returned into the dye. Try to stir as little air into it as possible.

6. Close the pot up again and leave for 48 hours until the water is yellow green.

7. The water will show a metallic shimmer on the surface when ready. Carefully stir it back in.

8. Add the damp but not mordanted wool etc. make sure all are under the water add a plate or a metallic disc to press the wool etc. under the surface. Whatever swims at the top will be unevenly dyed.

9. Close it up and leave for 6 -12 hours. 

10. Remove wool etc. and press out back into the dye bath.  

11. Open wool etc. and leave exposed for at least 60min. All should turn blue. 

12. If you prefer a deeper blue add it to the dye bath again and repeat step 9. 

13. Wash twice with a mild soap, then rinse 4-5 times using vinegar in the last bath. 

14. Hang up and air for a few days or weeks. 

You can repeat this dyeing process using the same dye bath several times.

COCHINEAL DYE ~ Dye colours red, pinks to purples

Origin: Canary Islands, Spain. Organically farmed and processed by Canaturex 

I am so delighted to have finally found some organic Cochineal. Lorenzo is one of the very first offering fully traceable Cochineal grown to organic principals.

Cochineal, a powerful dye sourced from tiny insects that feed on cacti, produces stunning shades of purple, red and pink. With just one dye bath, this incredible insect can create a range of hues, from deep, rich reds to delicate, fairy-like pinks. It is derived from the Dactylopius species of insects, and its body contains 19-22% carminic acid.

*To make one kilogram of cochineal dye, it takes about 80,000 to 100,000 insects. 

Excellent colour fastness is guaranteed.

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Recipe for Wool Fibres: Downloadable PDF

Recipe For Plant Fibres: Downloadable PDF

Basic recipe:

6% Cochineal
Wool yarn mordanted with Alum 10%


Soak Cochineal in Water overnight
blend using a stick blender

Add dye to dye bath
Bring to a simmer
Remove any black tar like bubbles

Strain through a cloth and keep to the side
Add yarn to bath simmer for one hour.

Add dye bag to second and any following dye baths.

Organic Ground, Cut, or Whole Hibiscus Flowers
Vibrant Pink & Purple Hues for Dyeing | Cultivated in Egypt

Hibiscus flowers are an excellent choice for natural dyeing, offering stunning shades from light purples to deep pinks and even greens, depending on the mordant used. Ground Hibiscus produces a lighter purple hue on wool, while cut or whole flowers yield more vibrant tones. This pH-sensitive dye is perfect for hobby dyers and children’s activities, as it offers interesting colour shifts - from green to purple to pink -  and an experimental approach to dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Ground Hibiscus: Use 50% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for a light purple hue.
• Cut or Whole Hibiscus: Use 75-100% of the dye weight relative to the fabric for deeper tones.
• pH Sensitivity: Hibiscus dye is pH-sensitive, meaning colour can shift, creating fun and unique results—perfect for those who enjoy experimenting.

Colour Fastness: Poor (colour may shift with pH changes)

Basic Hibiscus Dye Recipe:

1. Mordanting: Use Alum (10-15%) for dyeing wool.
2. Dye Ratio:
   • For mordanted fabric or yarn: Use 50-100% Hibiscus dye relative to the weight of the dry fibre.
3. Dyeing Process:
   • Soak Hibiscus flowers or powder in water and simmer.
   • Add mordanted fabric and simmer until the desired colour is achieved.

A delightful and experimental natural dye, perfect for adding beautiful, ever-changing shades to your projects!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

GLOSSY BUCKTHORN BARK DYE (Frangula alnus)
Dye Colour: Golden Yellow, Pinks, and Reds | Country of Collection: Bosnia

Glossy Buckthorn Bark is a pH-sensitive natural dye, wild-collected in Bosnia. Historically valued for its versatile colour range, it delivers golden yellow tones at a neutral pH, shifts to pink and red at higher pH levels (10–11), but it is unstable; and can yield green with the addition of iron. This bark’s gentle fragrance and good colour fastness make it a favourite among natural dyers and paint makers alike.

Colour Fastness: Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 65g Buckthorn Bark per 100g Fibre
  Produces a spectrum from golden yellow at neutral pH to rosy reds at alkaline pH (unstable), with iron modifying towards green.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients: 65g Buckthorn Bark, 100g Mordanted Wool (approx. 13g Alum)

1. Soak bark for 2 days.
2. Simmer the bark in water for 2 hours; strain through cloth.
3. Add wool/fibre (along with the bark in a dye bag if desired) and simmer 1 hour.
4. Rinse well and allow to dry.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences, join courses and get support from fellow growers and dyers.

POMEGRANATE PEELS ~ CUT & GROUND ORGANIC ~ can be used as Tannin and as yellow dye

The pomegranate is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between 5 and 10 m tall. The pomegranate originated in the region extending from Iran to northern India and has been cultivated since ancient times throughout the Mediterranean region.

 Colourfastness: good - excellent

Recipe:

For how to mordant your Cellulose fibres, please see my blog post 

 How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

If you are using protein fibres, a simple 10%Alum bath will do for mordanting, but protein fibres can also be dyed without a mordant when using Pomegranate peel due to its tannin content.

Once mordanted:

Add 100% pomegranate peel to 80degrees Celcius Water for one hour. (100% of the dry Weight of your Fibre/Fabric) If using powder, stir regularly or it will burn the bottom of your pan.

After an hour, switch of the heat and add the fabric/fibre. Leave to up to 3 days, until desired depth of colour. 

Wash, rinse, dry.

 Pomegranate Powder can also be used as a tannin and for printing when combined with Alum and Guar Gum.

OAK BARK DYE (Quercus spp.)
Dye Colour: Golden Beige and Browns | Country of Collection: Poland

Oak Bark is a tannin-rich, natural dye source used for centuries to achieve warm, earthy tones on wool and silk. Thanks to its high tannin content, no mordant is strictly necessary, but will result in better colour fastness. Experimenting with iron and adding oak galls can deepen or modify your results. Lighter beige tones emerge with lower pH (around 5), and deeper browns develop under higher pH (around 8), though iron is a more stable solution for darker tones.

Colour Fastness: Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio

• 50–100% WOF Oak Bark
  Produces a range of golden beige to medium browns, with the flexibility to go darker by adjusting the pH or boosting tannins with oak galls.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing

Ingredients:

• 50–100% Oak Bark (by weight of fibre)
• Wool or Silk (mordant not strictly necessary due to high tannin content)

Instructions:

1. Soak the oak bark overnight in water.
2. Simmer the soaked bark for 2 hours, then strain through a cloth.
3. Add wool or silk to the dye bath.
4. Simmer gently for 1 hour.
5. Cool & Rest: Allow the fibre to soak in the dye bath overnight to deepen the colour.
6. Rinse & Dry: Rinse the dyed fibre in cool water and hang to dry.

Embrace the rich tradition of oak bark dye and bring timeless, organic hues to your fibre projects—perfect for both beginners and seasoned natural dyers.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences, join courses and get support from fellow growers and dyers.

Organic European Solidago
Dye Colour: Yellow, Orange, and Green | Organically Grown in Poland

Our Organic Solidago, also known as Goldenrod, is carefully grown and harvested in Europe, specifically Poland. Solidago is a genus of flowering plants in the aster family, with species found across meadows, prairies, and savannas, and is native to North America. This beautiful plant produces vibrant yellow, orange, and green hues when used for natural dyeing, making it a versatile addition to your dyeing projects.

Colour Fastness: Medium - Good

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 25% WOF Dye (Solidago): Produces a soft, pale yellow hue.
• 50% WOF Dye (Solidago): Yields a deeper, vibrant yellow.
• 100% WOF Dye (Solidago): Results in a rich, golden yellow with orange undertones.

Basic Recipe for Yellow:

• Ingredients: 100% Solidago, Wool (Alum Mordant 10%)
• Instructions:
  • Soak the Solidago leaves for 1 day or overnight.
  • Boil the soaked leaves for 1 hour and drain.
  • Simmer the yarn in the dye bath for up to 1 hour.
  • Rinse and dry to reveal a stunning yellow hue.

Unlock the potential of this naturally vibrant dye and enjoy the rich colours it brings to your fabrics and yarns.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

Dried Organic Walnut Shells
Rich Golden & Dark Browns for Dyeing | Wild-Harvested in Croatia

Walnut shells are a natural dye source, producing beautiful golden to deep brown hues. While fresh green husks yield the richest browns, dried shells provide an accessible and effective alternative—perfect for wool and silk dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Mordanting: Tannins in walnut shells assist in dyeing, but a mordant can enhance colour depth.
• Soaking: Pre-soak the shells overnight for better colour extraction.
• Dyeing Methods: Can be used with or without a mordant—experiment to find your preferred shade.

Colour Fastness: Good – Excellent

Basic Walnut Shell Dye Recipe

(Adjust quantities as needed for different shades.)

Ingredients:

• 100% walnut shells by weight of fibre
• Wool (mordant optional)

Instructions:

1. Soak walnut shells overnight.
2. Simmer for 2 hours, then strain through cloth.
3. Add wool to the dye bath and simmer for 1 hour.
4. Let cool and leave in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse and dry.

A sustainable and traditional way to achieve rich, earthy browns in your fibre projects!