OAK GALL
Use: Cellulose Fibre Mordant | Harvested From: Aleppo Oak in Turkey | Also Known As: Oak Apple | Recipe: link below

Oak Gall, also known as Oak Apple, is harvested from the Aleppo Oak in Turkey and is a traditional mordant used for cellulose fibres. Due to its high tannin content, it is an effective mordant for preparing cellulose-based fabrics for natural dyeing. Unlike other tannin-based mordants, Oak Gall only stains the cellulose fibre a light beige, making it a preferred choice for delicate dyeing projects.

Key Features:

• High tannin content for cellulose mordanting
• Minimal staining cellulose fibres
• Available whole, cut, or ground

Function:
Oak Gall is used to prepare cellulose fibres for natural dyeing, helping the dye adhere to the fabric without leaving stains. Its high tannin content ensures vibrant and durable colours on cellulose fabrics like cotton, linen, and hemp. 

Storage & Usage:

• Available in whole, cut, or ground form.
• Store in a cool, dry place.

Perfect for natural dyers and textile artists working with cellulose fibre. Please see this recipe for mordanting cellulose with Gallotannin

TARA POWDER ~  is a natural tanning product

Grown in the mountains of Peru.

Tara powder will stain the fibres grey and it is recommended to use a strong dye so the colour isn't too influenced. I am using it for plant dyed flax fibres and LinCot yarns and found, that it actually adds some more depth to the colour.

Basic Recipe:

Please see our blog post on How to mordant linen and cotton fabrics successfully – AppleOak FibreWorks

MYROBALAN CHEBULIC ~ a tannin used for (pre) mordanting cellulose (Cotton, Linen) Fibres. Recipe below.

ORIGN: India

Myrobalan is a very common tannin used in India and around Asia. It creates a plum-like fruit from various trees of the genus Terminalia, formerly used in medicine as a mild laxative and now used in the dyeing industry.

Myrobalan creates butter yellow on fabric, like most tannins. Tannin is important for mordanting cellulose fibres like cotton and linen. Alum alone is not a suitable mordant for cellulose fibres and its use will produce inferior colours.

Myrobalan can be used in print, over dye with indigo for teal, use as a stand alone colour or as a mordant.

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Recipe Downloadable PDF for creating Greys and Charcoal 

Basic recipe for mordanting cellulose fibres:

A 2 step process, please read through the entire instructions first.

Step 1:

Ingredients:

10% Myrobalan (10% of the weight of fabric (w.o.f.))


1.Fill a plastic or stainless steel vessel with hot water (40-50 d. Celsius/100-120F) to a 30:1 ratio (water : fabric)

2. add tannin and stir until dissolved or evenly distributed

3. add fabric, immerse fully for 1-2 hours. The bath will cool down, which is totally fine. Stir occasionally.

4. use rubber gloves when removing fabric, squeeze fabric. Rinse very lightly or better spin it out using a centrifugal spinner or washing machine. Tannin is bound to the fibre only by affinity and can be removed if rinsed aggressively.

5. save mordant for future use.

6. don't let it dry before moving to the 2nd mordanting step.

Step 2:

Ingredients:
Alum 12% (w.o.f.) Dissolved in enough boiling water, cool.
Soda Ash 1.5% (w.o.f.) Dissolve in enough boiling water, cool.

1. Combine the two solutions while stirring. It will bubble, so make sure your vessel is big enough.

2. Bubbles will subside quickly and you should be left with a clear liquid. Add additional hot water as described above. Follow steps 3 - 5 from above.

3. Rinse the textile well, to make sure any unattached mordant is rinsed off.

4. The textile may be dyed immediately or dried for future use.


Tips:

*Too hot and the tannin will oxidize, which is fine, if you want a potentially darker colour. For overdyeing, it is best to keep the colour as light as possible.
** You can also use cold water instead of hot, but it will require a 12h soak at least.
***Any tannin can be used with this recipe, but for lighter results use Oak Gall or Tara.

Enjoy!

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FUSTIC HARDWOOD ~ Dyer's Mulberry, Old Fustic or Yellowwood
Dye Colour: Yellow and Green | Country of Collection: Unknown (Typically sourced from tropical regions) | Maclura tinctoria or Chlorophora tinctoria 

Fustic, introduced to Europe in the 16th century, is a classic natural dye that produces vibrant yellow tones and clear greens when overdyed with indigo. Sourced from the hardwood of the Chlorophora or Morus tinctoria tree, a member of the Mulberry family, Fustic is known for its strength, requiring only 50% of the dye by weight of fibre (W.D.F.). The wood chips used for dyeing are reusable, allowing for multiple dye baths.

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 50% WOF Dye (Fustic): Produces a bright, clear yellow hue.
• Overdye with Indigo: Results in a clear, vibrant green.
• With 3% Iron: Transforms the dye into an olive green tone.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:

• Ingredients: 50% Fustic cut, 10% Alum
• Instructions:
  1. Mordant the yarn by dissolving Alum in hot water and adding the yarn. Let it steep overnight.
  2. Steep the Fustic woodchips in hot water overnight.
  3. The next day, rinse the mordanted yarn.
  4. Strain the Fustic dye and let it dry for an additional day.
  5. Add the mordanted yarn to the dye bath and heat to 85°C for 1 hour.
  6. Rinse and dry the yarn.
  7. Reusing Dye: If using the dye again, boil it for 45 minutes to deepen the yellow colour.

Unlock the potential of this traditional dye, whether you're looking for a rich yellow, earthy green, or vibrant hues when combined with other dyes like Indigo.

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