Natural Indigo Pigment
Indigofera tinctoria · Traditional Indian Indigo · Approx. 35 - 42% Indigotin
From pale sky blue to deep navy, natural indigo offers an extraordinary range of blues. This high-quality indigo is traditionally prepared in India and analytically checked to verify its natural origin.
At a glance
- Origin: India
- Botanical source: Indigofera tinctoria
- Plant part: Leaves, processed to extract the pigment
- Form: Natural indigo pigment powder
- Indigotin content: Approximately 35–42%
- Colours: Pale blue through to deep navy
- Fibres: Cotton, linen, hemp, wool and silk
- Mordant: Not required
- Preparation: Requires a suitable indigo vat
- Production: Traditional pigment extraction
- Traceability: Batches analytically checked for natural origin
How indigo works
Indigo is an insoluble pigment - it will not dye textiles simply by being mixed with water.
For textile dyeing, it must be reduced in an alkaline indigo vat. This changes the pigment into a soluble yellow-green form that can enter the fibre. When the fibre is lifted into the air, the indigo oxidises and turns blue.
“100% natural indigo” refers to its natural origin - not 100% indigotin purity. This product contains approximately 35 - 42% indigotin, the main blue colouring component.
Choosing a vat
| Vat type | What to consider |
|---|---|
| Fructose or sugar vat | A popular organic reduction method using sugar and lime. High pH can be tricky with protein fibres. Poor colourfastness. |
| Fermentation vat | A living vat that takes longer to establish but can be maintained and replenished for years. |
| Sig vat | A urine vat. It is the smelliest option, but can produce excellent colourfastness and deep indigo shades. Not recommended where neighbours may be affected by the odour. |
| Iron and lime vat | A quick mineral vat generally better suited to cellulose fibres than protein fibres. |
| Hydros or thiourea dioxide vat | Fast and convenient, but colourfastness is generally poorer than with fermentation or urine vats. Colour cannot usually be built up gradually through repeated dips; the desired depth of indigo is generally achieved with the first dip. Follow the safety and measurement guidance for the reducing agent. |
Choose a complete recipe suited to your fibre. Temperature, pH and ingredient quantities vary between vat systems.
Wool and silk require particular care with alkalinity, temperature and time in the vat.
How much to use
The amount of indigo needed depends on:
- Your chosen vat recipe and working volume
- The size, strength and condition of the vat
- The quantity and type of fibre
- The depth of blue required
Follow a recipe intended for natural indigo. A maintained vat can be used for several dyeing sessions and replenished when needed.
For a hydros or thiourea dioxide vat, plan the amount of indigo according to the depth required in the first dip, as colour is not generally built up gradually through repeated dips in the same way as with other vat systems.
Basic dyeing guide
- Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly and wet it before dyeing. Indigo itself needs no mordant. Wet out the indigo powder.
- Build the vat: Follow a complete recipe suitable for your chosen fibre and vat system.
- Reduce: Allow the vat to reduce and settle before dyeing.
- Dip: Lower the fibre gently into the liquid, avoiding splashing and touching any sediment at the bottom.
- Oxidise: Lift it out carefully and allow the colour to turn fully blue in the air.
- Build colour: With fermentation, sugar or urine vats, repeat the dipping and oxidation process until you reach your desired shade. With a hydros or thiourea dioxide vat, aim to achieve the desired depth with the first dip.
- Finish: Rinse and wash thoroughly, following guidance appropriate to your fibre and vat.
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Build slowly | With fermentation, sugar and mineral vats, several controlled dips usually produce a better deep shades. |
| Plan hydros dips carefully | Hydros and thiourea dioxide vats generally do not build colour gradually through repeated dips. Use a suitable indigo concentration for the desired first-dip depth. |
| Watch the vat | Check reduction and pH regularly. |
| Avoid splashing | Introducing excess oxygen can disturb the reduced vat. |
| Keep notes | Record your recipe, pH, temperature, additions, dips and fibres used etc. |
| Layer colours | Always dye your blues first, followed by mordant and colour. |
Colourfastness
Indigo can produce excellent lightfastness and good washfastness when properly applied and finished - Heat setting recommended.
Colourfastness varies according to the vat method. Fermentation and urine vats can produce particularly strong colourfastness and deep shades. Hydros and other chemical reducing-agent vats are convenient and fast, but generally produce poorer colourfastness.
Some surface colour may rub off, particularly with very deep shades. Controlled dipping and thorough washing can help reduce this.
Other creative uses
Natural indigo can also be used as a pigment with a suitable binder in:
- Paints
- Inks
- Decorative finishes
- Woodwork
Mixing indigo with water alone will not create a durable surface finish. Check out our Maya Blue listing if you like to use Indigo for painting.
Storage & safe handling
- Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
- Avoid breathing fine powder and prevent contact with eyes.
- Handle in a well-ventilated workspace.
- Use suitable particulate respiratory protection where dust cannot be adequately controlled.
- Wear gloves and eye protection when preparing alkaline vats.
- Follow the safety instructions for every reducing agent and additive used.
- Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
- Keep away from food, children and pets.
- For textile dyeing and craft pigment use only - not for consumption or cosmetic use.
- When preparing a urine vat, work outdoors and consider the effect of strong odours on neighbours.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars are not included.
Learn with us
Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to explore indigo vats, share your results and learn alongside fellow natural dyers and growers.
