Glossy Buckthorn Bark Natural Dye
Frangula alnus Mill. · Wild-Collected in Bosnia · Cut Bark
Glossy buckthorn bark is a responsive natural dye capable of producing golden yellows, ochres and earthy greens, together with experimental pink and red shades under alkaline conditions.
The bark contains anthraquinone-type colourants. Its final colour varies considerably according to the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH and modifiers used.
At a glance
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Botanical name: Frangula alnus Mill.
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Recognised synonym: Rhamnus frangula L.
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Plant part: Bark
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Form: Dried cut bark
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Country of collection: Bosnia
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Collection: Wild-collected
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Colours: Golden yellow, ochre, pink, coral, red, olive and green-brown
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Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
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Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
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Colour response: Highly dependent on pH and modifiers
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Colourfastness: Yellow and iron-modified shades are generally more stable; alkaline pinks and reds are less colourfast
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Vegan: Yes
How much to use
For a medium to strong shade, begin with:
65 g glossy buckthorn bark per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 65% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
For lighter shades, use a smaller quantity or work with a later exhaust bath.
These quantities are starting points only. Results vary according to the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH, dye quantity, temperature and processing time.
Colour possibilities
| Conditions | Possible colours |
|---|---|
| Neutral or mildly acidic | Golden yellow, ochre and yellow-brown |
| Alkaline | Pink, coral, orange-red and red |
| Iron modification | Olive, khaki, green-grey and green-brown |
| Exhaust bath | Paler yellow, peach and warm beige |
Alkaline pink and red shades are pH sensitive and may change during rinsing, washing or exposure to light.
Basic guide for wool
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Prepare: Scour and mordant the wool with approximately 13% alum WOF, or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method.
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Soak: Cover the bark with water and soak for approximately two days.
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Extract: Heat the bark and soaking liquid gently for approximately two hours.
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Strain: Strain the liquid through a cloth. The bark may be placed in a dye bag and returned to the bath if desired.
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Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted wool and heat gently for approximately one hour.
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Cool: Allow the fibre to cool in the dye bath. Leave it longer if greater depth is required.
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Modify - optional: Divide the bath or remove a sample before making gradual iron or alkaline adjustments.
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Finish: Rinse thoroughly, wash gently and dry away from strong, direct sunlight.
Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.
Dyeing cotton, linen or other cellulose fibres? Find suitable mordanting methods here.
Creating pinks and reds
Raising the dye bath towards approximately pH 10–11 can shift glossy buckthorn towards pink, coral and red.
Dissolve soda ash separately and add it gradually. Strong or prolonged alkalinity may damage wool and silk, so modify a small sample or use a separate brief afterbath.
These colours are less stable than the yellows and iron-modified shades and may fade or change over time.
Modifying with iron
Iron can shift the yellow and ochre shades towards olive, khaki and deeper green-brown.
Dilute the iron before adding it and begin with approximately 1-3% WOF. Excessive iron may make fibres harsh or brittle.
Colourfastness
Golden-yellow, ochre and carefully iron-modified shades can provide useful, generally more stable results when properly prepared, dyed and finished.
Alkaline pink and red shades have lower permanence and may fade or shift during washing, storage and exposure to light.
Sample and test when colourfastness is important.
Storage and safe handling
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Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only.
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Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
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Glossy buckthorn bark naturally contains biologically active anthraquinone compounds.
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Avoid creating or breathing dust.
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Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Follow the safety instructions for all mordants, iron, alkalis and modifiers used.
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Use dedicated dyeing equipment - never food-preparation utensils.
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Keep away from food and out of reach of children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of dried, cut glossy buckthorn bark, wild-collected in Bosnia and supplied in a pouch.
Mordants, iron, soda ash and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars are not included.
Learn with us
Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results and explore natural colour alongside fellow dyers and dye-plant growers.
