Organic Heather Natural Dye
Calluna vulgaris · Croatia · Wild-Harvested Aerial Parts
Organic heather is a traditional botanical dye producing golden yellow, olive and earthy green-brown shades.
Wild-harvested in Croatia, this material contains the dried aerial parts of the plant, including stems, leaves and remaining flowers. Heather has traditionally been used to colour wool and tweed and responds particularly well to iron modification.
Its naturally occurring tannins contribute to its earthy colour range and help create deeper olive and green-brown shades.
At a glance
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Botanical name: Calluna vulgaris
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Common name: Heather or common heather
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Plant part: Aerial parts, including stems, leaves and remaining flowers
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Origin: Croatia
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Collection: Wild-harvested
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Organic status: Organic
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Form: Dried and cut
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Colours: Golden yellow, muted gold, olive and green-brown
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Fibres: Wool & Silk (Cellulose Fibres work as well, but colour can be weak)
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Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
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Suggested quantity: Approximately 100â200% WOF
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Iron response: Olive, khaki and green-brown
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Colourfastness: Poor to moderate
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Vegan: Suitable for vegan projects
How much to use
Begin with:
100â200g dried heather per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 100â200% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
| Quantity or treatment | Expected result |
|---|---|
| Approximately 100% WOF | Soft golden yellow to muted gold |
| Approximately 150% WOF | Stronger gold and yellow-brown |
| Approximately 200% WOF | Deeper gold to earthy brown-yellow |
| Light iron afterbath | Olive, khaki or green-brown |
| Later exhaust bath | Pale beige-yellow or muted straw |
Heather is a relatively gentle dye and generally requires a generous amount of plant material.
Results depend on the plant material, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction method, temperature, processing time and modifiers.
Basic guide for wool
Ingredients
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100â200g dried heather per 100g dry wool
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Approximately 10% alum WOF
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Optional 1â3% iron WOF
Method
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Prepare: Scour the wool thoroughly and wet it before mordanting.
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Mordant: Mordant with approximately 10% alum WOF, or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method. The wool may be left in the cooling mordant bath overnight.
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Soak: Cover the heather with water and leave it for several hours or overnight.
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Extract: Heat the heather and soaking water gently to approximately 85°C (185°F) and hold for one hour.
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Strain: Strain through a cloth or contain the plant material in a securely tied dye bag.
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Dye: Add the rinsed, mordanted wool and hold the bath at approximately 85°C (185°F) for one hour.
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Develop: Allow the wool to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight if a deeper shade is required.
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Modify: For olive or green-brown, transfer the fibre to a separate, diluted iron afterbath.
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Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently with a pH-neutral detergent.
Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.
Modifying with iron
Iron shifts heatherâs golden yellow towards olive, khaki, moss and green-brown.
Use approximately 1â3% iron WOF in a separate, diluted afterbath. Begin at the lower end of the range.
Where possible, use iron acetate, as it is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate used on its own.
Options include:
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Prepared iron acetate
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Carefully made iron water
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Ferrous sulphate combined with sodium acetate
Homemade iron water varies considerably in strength and cannot be treated as a fixed-percentage solution. Test it on a small sample first.
Heather may respond quickly to iron. Observe the colour continuously and remove the fibre promptly once the desired shade develops.
Excessive iron may make fibres harsh or brittle and contribute to long-term deterioration.
Reusing the heather
Heather may continue to release colour after its first extraction.
Cover the strained plant material with fresh water and extract it again for approximately one hour. The second bath will normally be lighter but can be used independently or combined with another extract.
Dry previously extracted heather thoroughly before storing it. Do not seal damp plant material inside a container.
Tips from the dye pot
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Use a generous quantity | Begin at approximately 100% WOF and increase towards 200% WOF for greater depth. |
| Soak before extracting | A soak of several hours or overnight helps begin the extraction. |
| Control the heat | Hold the extraction and dye bath at approximately 85°C rather than boiling vigorously. |
| Mordant appropriately | Alum generally produces clearer golden yellow shades on wool and silk. |
| Extend the bath | Leaving the fibre in the cooling bath overnight can deepen the result. |
| Strain carefully | Use a cloth or dye bag to prevent plant fragments becoming caught in fibre. |
| Use iron sparingly | Begin at 1% WOF and use iron acetate where practical. |
| Reuse the plants | A second extraction may produce useful paler shades. |
| Keep notes | Record the WOF, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, temperature and modifiers. |
Colourfastness
Heatherâs colourfastness ranges from poor to moderate.
Performance depends on the plant material, fibre, mordant, dye quantity, depth of shade, extraction method, modifiers and aftercare.
Suitable mordanting generally improves the consistency and durability of the finished colour.
Iron-modified shades may appear deeper, but a darker colour should not automatically be assumed to be more permanent. Excessive iron can damage textile fibres.
Wash dyed work gently with a pH-neutral detergent and avoid prolonged exposure to strong, direct sunlight.
Storage and safe handling
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Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
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Dry previously extracted plant material thoroughly before storing it.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only.
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Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
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Avoid creating or breathing plant dust and fine particles.
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Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Wear gloves and eye protection when preparing mordant or iron solutions.
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Follow the safety instructions for all mordants and iron compounds used.
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Use iron sparingly, as excessive iron can damage textile fibres.
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Use dedicated dyeing equipmentânever food-preparation utensils.
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Keep away from food, children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of organic, wild-harvested Croatian heather, supplied dried and cut in a pouch.
The material contains aerial parts of the plant, including stems, leaves and remaining flowers.
As this is a natural, wild-harvested material, variations in colour, texture, plant composition and piece size should be expected.
Mordants, iron and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars are not included.
Learn with us
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