Dyer’s Broom Cut Natural Dye
Genista tinctoria · Dried and Cut · Traditional Yellow Dye
Dyer’s Broom produces traditional yellow, greenish-yellow and muted tan shades.
Also known as Dyer’s Greenweed, Genista tinctoria has a long history as a European textile dye. Alum generally produces the clearest yellow, while iron shifts the colour towards muted olive, khaki and tan-green.
For clearer greens, Dyer’s Broom can be applied over fibre that has already been dyed blue with indigo or woad.
At a glance
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Genista tinctoria |
| Common names | Dyer’s Broom and Dyer’s Greenweed |
| Traditional material name | Genistae tinctoriae herba concisa |
| Plant part | Dried aerial parts |
| Form | Cut |
| Colours | Yellow, greenish yellow, tan, khaki and olive |
| Fibres | Wool, silk, cotton and linen |
| Mordant | Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method |
| Suggested quantity | Approximately 100% WOF |
| Colourfastness | Medium |
| Animal origin | None; suitable for vegan projects |
How much to use
For a medium yellow, begin with:
100g Dyer’s Broom per 100g dry fibre
This is equivalent to 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
Use less plant material or a later exhaust bath for paler shades. A stronger bath or repeated dyeing may produce deeper yellows.
The final colour also depends on the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction temperature and processing time.
Sample first when working towards a particular colour.
Basic dyeing guide
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Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a suitable method, then wet it thoroughly. For wool, use approximately 10% alum WOF or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method.
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Extract: Cover the cut Dyer’s Broom with water and heat to approximately 85°C for one hour. Avoid vigorous boiling.
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Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth, removing the plant material from the bath.
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Dye: Turn off the heat and add the thoroughly wetted, mordanted fibre to the hot dye bath.
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Steep: Leave the fibre in the cooling bath overnight, moving it occasionally where practical.
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Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.
Colour shifts with iron
Iron shifts Dyer’s Broom yellow towards muted olive, khaki, moss and tan-green. The resulting shades generally lean towards earthy tan or olive rather than a vivid green.
Use iron sparingly. Approximately 1–3% WOF is generally sufficient, and iron acetate is preferable where possible because it is gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate.
Homemade iron water can vary considerably in strength, making results less predictable.
Excessive iron can dull the colour, make fibres feel harsher and cause long-term fibre damage.
Creating clearer greens
Iron produces muted olive and tan-green shades. For a clearer green, combine Dyer’s Broom with indigo or woad.
Begin by dyeing the fibre blue. Rinse and finish the blue-dyed fibre, mordant it using a method appropriate to the fibre, and then overdye it with Dyer’s Broom yellow.
A pale blue base generally produces a brighter green, while a deeper blue base produces darker blue-green shades.
The blue is always applied first, followed by mordanting and the yellow Dyer’s Broom bath.
Tips from the dye pot
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Use approximately 100% WOF | This provides a useful starting point for a medium yellow. |
| Avoid vigorous boiling | Extract at approximately 85°C to help preserve the clarity of the yellow. |
| Strain thoroughly | Prevent small plant fragments from becoming caught in yarn and fibre. |
| Steep overnight | Leaving the fibre in the cooling bath can deepen the result. |
| Use the exhaust bath | A second bath may produce useful paler yellow shades. |
| Expect earthy iron shades | Iron produces khaki, olive and tan-green rather than a vivid green. |
| Create clearer greens | Dye blue first, then mordant and overdye with Dyer’s Broom. |
| Keep notes | Record the WOF, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, temperature and processing time. |
Colourfastness
Dyer’s Broom has medium colourfastness when the fibre is suitably prepared, mordanted, dyed and finished.
The colour may soften through prolonged exposure to strong light or repeated washing. In layered greens, the yellow component may fade more quickly than the indigo or woad base, gradually changing the overall shade.
Performance depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade, modifiers and aftercare.
To help preserve the colour:
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Dry and store finished work away from prolonged direct sunlight.
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Wash only when necessary.
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Use cool water and a mild, pH-neutral detergent.
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Avoid strongly alkaline laundry products.
Storage and safe handling
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Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only.
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Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics, herbal preparations or medicinal products.
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Avoid creating or breathing plant dust.
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Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Wear gloves and eye protection when working with alum, iron or other mordants and modifiers.
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Iron solutions can stain skin, clothing, equipment and work surfaces.
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Use iron sparingly, as excessive iron can damage textile fibres.
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Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.
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Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
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Keep away from food, children and pets.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of dried and cut Dyer’s Broom, supplied in a pouch.
Mordants, iron, indigo, woad and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars and other photographic props are not included.
Learn with us
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