ALDER CONES DYE

Alder Cones Natural Dye & Coloured Tannin

Alnus glutinosa · Whole Cones · Europe

Alder cones produce soft golden beige, yellow-brown, nut brown and warm chestnut shades.

Naturally rich in tannins and other polyphenols, they can be used as a standalone natural dye or as a coloured tannin preparation before applying another botanical colour.

Unlike pale tannins, Alder cones contribute their own beige-to-brown colour. This warm undertone will influence any dye subsequently layered over it.

At a glance

• Botanical name: Alnus glutinosa

• Common names: Black Alder, European Alder

• Plant part: Mature woody cones

• Form: Whole cones

• Origin: Europe

• Material: Raw botanical dye material

• Colours: Golden beige, yellow-brown, nut brown and warm chestnut

• Iron shift: Grey-brown, charcoal brown and deeper muted shades

• Tannin content: Naturally tannin-rich

• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen

• Other uses: Paper dyeing, inks and coloured tannin preparation

• Mordant: Recommended for consistency and durability

• Suggested quantity: Approximately 100–200% WOF

• Colourfastness: Medium to good when suitably prepared, dyed and finished

• Suitable for vegans: Yes

How much to use

For a medium to deep shade, begin with:

100–200g Alder cones per 100g dry fibre

Equivalent to 100–200% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

Use approximately 100% WOF for lighter beige and yellow-brown shades or up to 200% WOF for stronger nut brown and chestnut tones.

The final colour will depend on the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, quantity of cones, extraction time, temperature and use of modifiers.

Sample first when working towards a particular colour.

Basic dyeing guide

1. Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly. Alder cones contain natural tannins and can colour some fibres without a mordant, but suitable mordanting can improve consistency, depth and durability. For wool or silk, approximately 10–15% alum WOF provides a useful starting point.

2. Soak: Pour boiling water over the cones and leave them to steep for 24–48 hours.

3. Extract: Heat the cones and soaking liquid gently for approximately two hours.

4. Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth. Retain the cones if you would like to attempt a second extraction.

5. Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted fibre and heat gently for approximately one hour.

6. Deepen: Allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight where a deeper shade is wanted.

7. Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.

Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.

Using Alder cones as a coloured tannin

Alder cones can be used as a tannin-rich preparation for cotton, linen and other cellulose fibres.

They should be regarded as a coloured tannin rather than a neutral tannin source. The treatment can leave a golden beige or brown foundation that influences the dye applied afterwards.

Colour possibilities

If using iron, approximately 1–3% WOF provides a sensible starting range. Iron acetate is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate. Excessive iron can dull the colour and weaken fibres.

Tips from the dye pot

• A 24–48-hour soak helps soften the cones and begin releasing their tannins.

• Longer extraction generally produces deeper colour than a short simmer.

• Retain the cones for a second extraction or paler dye bath.

• Crushing the cones increases the exposed surface area but creates more particles to strain.

• Use a dye bag or strain thoroughly to prevent fragments becoming caught in yarn.

• Remember that Alder-cone tannin is coloured and will influence subsequent dyes.

• Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.

• Record the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, WOF, extraction time and temperature.

Colourfastness

Alder cones can produce medium-to-good colourfastness when the fibre is properly prepared, dyed and finished.

Performance depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade, extraction method, modifiers and aftercare. Tannin-rich shades generally have good affinity with textile fibres, but natural variation should be expected.

Protect finished work from prolonged strong sunlight and wash gently with a pH-neutral detergent.

Storage and safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.

• For textile dyeing, paper dyeing and craft use only.

• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.

• Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly if crushing the cones.

• Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.

• Wear gloves, as concentrated tannin extracts can stain skin and surfaces.

• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.

• Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.

• Iron should be used sparingly. Excessive iron can weaken or damage textile fibres.

• Iron compounds can be harmful if swallowed and may irritate the eyes or skin.

• Use dedicated dyeing equipment - never food-preparation utensils.

• Keep away from food, children and pets.

For textile dyeing, paper dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of whole dried Alder cones, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, iron and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars and other photographic props are not included.

Learn with us

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow natural dyers and dye-plant growers.

Mordanting is recommended.