Annatto Natural Dye
Bixa orellana · Whole Seeds or Powder · Yellow, Orange and Copper
Annatto produces warm shades ranging from golden and yolk yellow to orange, copper and orange-red.
The colour comes from the reddish coating surrounding the seeds of Bixa orellana. Its principal pigments are the carotenoids bixin and norbixin. Annatto responds particularly well to alkaline extraction, while acids, mordants, fibres and companion dyes can all influence the final shade.
Choose your preferred form and pack size:
-
Whole Annatto seeds
-
Powdered Annatto
Both available forms are conventionally cultivated and are not organic.
At a glance
-
Botanical name: Bixa orellana
-
Plant part: Seeds and their pigment-rich outer coating
-
Forms: Whole seeds or powder
-
Colours: Golden yellow, yolk yellow, orange, copper and orange-red
-
Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
-
Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
-
Suggested quantity: Approximately 100% WOF
-
Extraction: Mildly alkaline extraction helps release stronger colour
-
Colourfastness: Poor to moderate, particularly sensitive to light
-
Origin: Botanical and suitable for vegan projects
Choosing a form
| Option | Organic status | What to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Whole Annatto seeds | Not organic | Benefit from overnight soaking and crushing or blending |
| Powdered Annatto | Not organic | Extracts quickly but creates more sediment; use a fine dye bag |
How much to use
For a medium to strong yellow-orange, begin with:
100g Annatto per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
Smaller quantities or later exhaust baths can produce paler yellows. Deeper orange shades may require more Annatto, a stronger extraction or repeated dyeing.
Results depend on the form used, fibre preparation, mordant, water chemistry, extraction pH, temperature and processing time.
Sample first when working towards a particular colour.
Basic recipe for wool and silk
Ingredients
-
100 g wool or silk
-
100 g whole or powdered Annatto
-
Approximately 15% alum WOF
-
Approximately 10 g soda ash for the extraction water
Method
-
Prepare: Scour the wool or silk thoroughly. Mordant with approximately 15% alum, or follow your preferred protein-fibre mordanting method.
-
Soak: Cover the Annatto with water. Add approximately 10g soda ash and leave whole seeds to soak overnight. Powder requires less soaking but should be contained in a fine dye bag.
-
Crush: Crush or carefully blend the soaked whole seeds using dedicated dyeing equipment. Powder does not need to be blended.
-
Extract: Heat the Annatto and soaking liquid gently for approximately one hour.
-
Strain: Strain through a fine cloth. Keep powder contained to prevent particles becoming caught in the fibre.
-
Dye silk: Add thoroughly wetted, mordanted silk and hold at approximately 80°C (176°F) for about 20 minutes. Remove it temporarily.
-
Dye wool: Add thoroughly wetted, mordanted wool and heat gently for approximately one hour.
-
Deepen the silk: Return the silk for approximately 15 minutes if greater depth is required.
-
Cool: Turn off the heat and allow the fibres to cool gradually.
-
Finish: Rinse thoroughly, wash gently and dry away from direct sunlight.
The remaining bath may be reused for progressively paler yellow-orange shades.
Because the extraction is alkaline, extract and strain the Annatto separately before adding wool or silk. Check the pH and avoid unnecessarily strong or prolonged alkaline conditions.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.
Colour possibilities
| Method | Possible result |
|---|---|
| Alum-mordanted fibre | Golden yellow to warm orange |
| Mild alkaline extraction | Stronger yellow-orange or orange |
| Tartaric acid adjustment | May shift the colour towards a clearer yolk yellow |
| Combined with cochineal | Orange-red, coral or warm red-orange |
| Applied over madder | Copper, terracotta or deeper orange |
| Later exhaust bath | Pale yellow or soft apricot |
Make acidic and alkaline adjustments gradually. Dissolve additions separately and test a small portion before modifying the entire dye bath.
Colour descriptions are provided as a guide. Results vary with the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH and processing method.
Combining Annatto with cochineal
Annatto and cochineal can create orange-red, coral and warm vermilion-like shades.
For greater control, sample first and record the amount of each dye, mordant, pH, fibre, processing temperature and order of application.
Cream of tartar or another suitable acid can influence the cochineal shade. Add acids gradually and monitor the bath.
Cochineal may contribute greater colourfastness to a blended shade, but it does not make the Annatto component permanently lightfast.
Creating copper with madder
To create a layered copper-orange:
-
Dye the fibre first with a pale or medium madder shade.
-
Rinse the madder-dyed fibre thoroughly.
-
Prepare the Annatto bath separately.
-
Add the wetted, madder-dyed fibre to the Annatto bath.
-
Remove it when the desired copper or terracotta-orange develops.
The result will depend on the depth and undertone of both dye layers.
Tips from the dye pot
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Soak whole seeds | Overnight soaking softens the pigment-rich coating before crushing and extraction. |
| Contain the powder | Powder extracts quickly but creates considerable sediment. |
| Extract separately | This gives better control over alkalinity before adding wool or silk. |
| Adjust pH gradually | Tartaric acid may produce clearer yellow shades, but additions should be tested. |
| Layer colours | Madder and cochineal can extend the range into copper and orange-red. |
| Reuse the bath | Exhaust baths may produce pale yellow and apricot shades. |
| Protect from light | Annatto is particularly susceptible to fading in prolonged daylight. |
| Keep notes | Record the form, WOF, mordant, pH, temperature and processing time. |
Colourfastness
Annatto has poor to moderate colourfastness.
Washfastness can be reasonable when the fibre is suitably prepared, mordanted, dyed and finished. Lightfastness is its principal limitation, and yellow and orange shades may fade through prolonged exposure to daylight.
Mordants and companion dyes can influence overall performance, but they do not make the Annatto component reliably lightfast.
Dry and store dyed work away from strong sunlight. Wash only when necessary, using cool water and a gentle, pH-neutral detergent.
Annatto-dyed work may eventually need to be refreshed or redyed.
Storage and safe handling
-
Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
-
For textile dyeing and craft use only.
-
Not sold for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
-
Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling powdered Annatto.
-
Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.
-
Wear gloves, as Annatto can stain skin and surfaces.
-
Wear eye protection and suitable particulate respiratory protection where dust cannot be adequately controlled.
-
Wear gloves and eye protection when working with soda ash, acids and mordants.
-
Dissolve soda ash, acids and mordants separately before adding them to the bath.
-
Follow the safety instructions for every mordant, acid, alkali and modifier used.
-
Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
-
Keep away from food, children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not sold for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight and form of non-organic Annatto, supplied in a pouch.
Choose from:
-
Whole Annatto seeds
-
Powdered Annatto
Please check the selected form and pack size carefully before ordering.
Mordants, cream of tartar, soda ash, acids and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars and other props are not included.
Learn with us
Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow natural dyers and dye-plant growers.
