Kola Nut Natural Dye
Cola nitida (Vent.) Schott & Endl. · Cut or Ground
Kola nuts are a traditional West African dye material producing ochre, orange-brown, terracotta, reddish-brown and earthy brown shades.
Clearer oranges are associated with traditional methods using finely pounded kola nuts, concentrated infusions, contact dye and repeated dipping. Fully dried material may produce softer ochre, tan or medium-brown shades.
When layered with indigo, kola nut colours can shift towards deep brown, dark green and greenish-black.
Choose organic cut kola nuts for slower extraction and easier straining, or ground kola nuts for quicker and more thorough colour release.
At a glance
| Feature | Details |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Cola nitida (Vent.) Schott & Endl. |
| Common names | Kola nut, cola nut |
| Plant part | Dried seed |
| Forms | Organic cut or ground |
| Organic status | Cut kola nuts are certified organic; ground kola nuts are not organic |
| Material | Raw botanical dye material—not an extract |
| Colours | Ochre, orange-brown, terracotta, reddish-brown and medium brown |
| With indigo | Deep brown, dark green and greenish-black |
| Fibres | Traditionally used on cotton; also suitable for wool and silk |
| Colourfastness | Useful to good when suitably prepared, dyed and finished |
Kola Nut in West Africa dyeing
Kola nuts have a long history of use in West African textile traditions, particularly for producing warm orange and brown shades on cotton cloth.
Traditional dyers finely pound the nuts and prepare a concentrated infusion. The cloth may be dipped repeatedly, allowed to drain between dips and left in contact with the dye overnight.
Kola nuts are also used alongside indigo in layered, resist-dyed and overdyed textiles. Combining the warm colour of kola nut with indigo blue can create deep browns, dark greens and greenish-black shades.
Kola nut does not chemically turn indigo black. The darker colours are created by applying the two dyes in separate stages.
Understanding the possible colours
Kola nuts vary naturally according to their variety, maturity, drying, age and storage.
Traditional methods can produce clear orange and deep orange-brown shades. Fully dried commercial material may produce softer ochre, tan, terracotta, reddish-brown or medium-brown shades instead. Used as a full contact dye, will also improve colour strength.
Orange is therefore a possible result rather than a guaranteed colour. Always sample first when working towards a particular shade.
Choosing a form
Organic cut kola nuts
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Certified organic
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Suitable for soaking and longer extractions
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Easier to contain and strain from the dye bath
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Produce less sediment than the ground form
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May be extracted again for a paler second bath
Ground kola nuts
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Not certified organic
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Greater surface area encourages quicker extraction
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Can release the available colour more thoroughly
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Produce considerably more sediment
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Best contained in a closely woven cloth or fine dye bag
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Require regular stirring to prevent settling and scorching
The ground form is made from dried kola nuts and is not a concentrated extract.
How much to use
For a medium shade, begin with:
100g kola nuts per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
For stronger ochre, orange-brown and reddish-brown shades, use:
200g kola nuts per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 200% WOF.
Ground kola nuts offer the best chance of extracting the available colour thoroughly. Cut nuts require a longer soak and extraction.
These quantities are starting points. The final result depends on the batch of kola nuts, concentration, fibre, water chemistry and dyeing method.
Suggested dyeing method
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Prepare: Scour and prepare the fibre using a method appropriate for the fibre type. Wet it thoroughly before dyeing.
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Soak: Cover the kola nuts with water and leave overnight. Use enough water to cover the material while keeping the bath reasonably concentrated.
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Extract: Heat gently at approximately 80–90°C for one to two hours. Avoid vigorous boiling.
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Strain: Strain the liquid carefully. Ground kola nuts are best contained inside a closely woven dye bag or strained through a fine cloth.
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Dye: Add the prepared fibre and hold the bath at approximately 80–85°C for one hour.
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Deepen: Allow the fibre to cool in the bath. For stronger colour, leave it overnight or repeat the dipping and cooling process.
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Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently.
The result may range from ochre and orange-brown to terracotta, reddish-brown or medium brown.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find our cellulose mordanting guide here.
Tips from the dye pot
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Choose ground for stronger extraction | Ground kola nuts release their available colour more readily than cut pieces. |
| Keep the bath concentrated | Too much water may produce a weak result even when sufficient dye material is used. |
| Build the colour | Repeated dipping may build a stronger shade than one prolonged immersion. |
| Allow development time | Cooling or draining between dips may help the colour develop. |
| Explore alkalinity carefully | A mildly alkaline bath may encourage stronger extraction, but can also change the colour. Test on a small sample first. |
| Protect protein fibres | Avoid strongly alkaline conditions when dyeing wool or silk. |
| Layer with indigo | Apply kola nut and indigo in separate stages for deep brown, dark green or greenish-black shades. |
| Manage expectations | Clear orange is possible but cannot be guaranteed from every batch of dried kola nut. |
| Keep notes | Record the fibre, preparation, concentration, water chemistry, temperature and number of dips. |
Colourfastness
Kola nut can produce medium-to-good colourfastness when the fibre is suitably prepared and the dye is properly extracted, applied and finished.
Performance depends on the fibre, preparation, mordant, depth of shade, water chemistry, extraction method and aftercare.
The naturally occurring tannins can support colour uptake, but they do not guarantee exceptional fastness under every dyeing condition.
When kola nut is layered with indigo, the durability of the final shade also depends on the preparation and application of the indigo vat.
Video demonstration
The 1996 film “A Dyeing Art – Indigo & Cola Nut & Textiles” shows the use of kola nuts and indigo in textile dyeing.
The film is provided for historical and educational context rather than as a step-by-step AppleOak recipe.
Storage and safe handling
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Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
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For textile dyeing, paper and craft use only.
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Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
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Kola nuts naturally contain caffeine and other biologically active compounds.
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Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling the ground form.
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Work in a well-ventilated area when handling ground material.
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Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Follow the safety instructions for every mordant, modifier and indigo-vat ingredient used.
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Use dedicated dyeing utensils and containers - never food-preparation equipment.
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Keep away from food, children and pets.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of either certified-organic cut kola nuts or ground kola nuts, supplied in a pouch.
Please note that only the cut kola nuts are certified organic. The ground kola nuts are not organic.
Mordants, indigo and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Display jars and photographic props are not included.
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