Myrobalan – Natural Tannin & Yellow Dye

Terminalia chebula Retz. · Whole or Ground

Myrobalan is the dried, tannin-rich fruit of Terminalia chebula, sourced from India and available in whole or ground form.

Widely used in Indian and Asian textile traditions, Myrobalan is particularly suited to cotton, linen, hemp and other cellulose fibres. The same complete two-stage tannin process can produce shades ranging from light beige and butter yellow to rich, vibrant yellow, depending on the quantity used.

Myrobalan can be used as a yellow colour, as the first stage of cellulose mordanting, in textile printing, with iron for greys and charcoal, or after indigo to create green and teal.

Unlike Tara or oak gall, Myrobalan introduces a noticeable yellow base. This can become part of the finished colour or add warmth and depth beneath another natural dye.

At a glance

What is Myrobalan?

Myrobalan is the dried fruit of Terminalia chebula, a deciduous tree belonging to the Combretaceae family.

The fruit is naturally rich in hydrolysable tannins, including chebulagic acid, chebulinic acid, gallic acid and ellagic compounds.

Myrobalan has a long history of use in India and throughout Asia for tanning, preparing cellulose fibres, dyeing and textile printing. Its natural affinity for cellulose makes it particularly valuable for cotton and linen.

This product is raw whole or ground Myrobalan rather than a purified or concentrated extract.

Myrobalan as tannin and colour

Myrobalan serves two connected purposes: it introduces tannin into cellulose fibres and creates a visible yellow colour.

The colour is developed through the complete two-stage tannin process. A separate heated dye bath is not required.

Depending on the quantity used, Myrobalan can produce:

• Light beige at lower percentages

• Soft butter yellow

• Warm botanical yellow

• Rich, vibrant yellow at higher percentages

The yellow background can be used as the finished colour or incorporated into a layered natural-dye process.

Because Myrobalan produces more colour than Tara or oak gall, it should be selected with the intended final shade in mind.

Why cellulose fibres need two mordanting stages

Cotton, linen and other cellulose fibres do not naturally form a strong bond with aluminium mordants.

Our cellulose preparation therefore uses two complementary stages:

1. A tannin treatment with Myrobalan

2. A second mordanting treatment using alum with soda ash, aluminium acetate or aluminium lactate

The tannin stage and aluminium stage work together. Tannin by itself does not complete the mordanting process, and the aluminium treatments are not sufficient by themselves either.

During the first stage, the tannin is held by the cellulose fibre through affinity. It can still be removed by aggressive rinsing.

During the second stage, the tannins are converted into insoluble tannates within the fibre. This completes the mordanting process and develops the durable Myrobalan base used for dyeing or as a colour in its own right.

Understanding the possible colours

The amount of Myrobalan used has a direct influence on the depth of yellow.

As a starting point:

WOF means weight of dry fibre. For example, 20% WOF is 20g Myrobalan for 100g dry fibre.

These quantities are starting points rather than guaranteed colour standards. Results depend on:

• The natural strength of the Myrobalan

• Whole or ground form

• Fibre type

• Scouring

• Duration of the tannin treatment

• The second mordanting stage

• Water chemistry

• Rinsing and finishing

Always sample when working towards a particular yellow.

Choosing a form

Whole Myrobalan

• Suitable for traditional processes and longer cold extractions

• Must be crushed or broken before use

• Produces less loose dust

• Easier to contain and strain

• Requires a longer soak than ground material

• Naturally varies in size, shape and colour

Ground Myrobalan

• Provides greater surface area

• Releases tannin and colour more readily

• Suitable for cool tannin baths and printing preparations

• Produces more botanical sediment

• Should be mixed into a smooth paste before being added to the bath

• Requires care to avoid creating airborne dust

Whole and ground Myrobalan are the same raw botanical material. Ground Myrobalan is not a concentrated extract.

Suggested Myrobalan process

Stage one: Myrobalan tannin and colour

1. Scour: Scour the cotton, linen or other cellulose fibre thoroughly to remove oils, waxes, sizing and processing residues.

2. Weigh: Weigh the dry fibre and calculate the amount of Myrobalan required for the desired depth of yellow.

3. Prepare: Crush whole Myrobalan thoroughly. Mix ground Myrobalan into a smooth paste with a small amount of water.

4. Fill the bath: Use approximately 30 parts water to one part dry fibre. Use cold water or water no warmer than 30°C.

5. Add the Myrobalan: Stir until the material is evenly distributed.

6. Add the fibre: Add the thoroughly wetted textile and ensure that it is completely immersed.

7. Treat: Leave for at least 1–2 hours and up to 24 hours, moving the textile occasionally.

8. Remove: Wearing gloves, remove the textile and gently squeeze or spin out the excess liquid.

9. Do not rinse: Tannin is held initially by affinity and can be removed by aggressive rinsing.

10. Do not dry: Proceed to the second mordanting stage while the textile remains damp.

A longer cold soak is particularly useful when working with whole or coarsely crushed Myrobalan.

Stage two: Complete the mordanting process

Complete the process with one of the following:

• Alum with soda ash

• Aluminium acetate

• Aluminium lactate

For our alum and soda ash method, use:

• 12% WOF alum

• 1.5% WOF soda ash

Dissolve the alum and soda ash separately. Allow the solutions to cool and combine them carefully while stirring.

Add the damp, Myrobalan-treated textile and leave for a minimum of two hours and up to 24 hours.

After the second stage, rinse the textile thoroughly to remove any unattached mordant.

The textile may then be used as the finished yellow colour, dyed immediately or dried for future use.

Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find our complete cellulose mordanting guide here.

Working with indigo

Always apply indigo first and follow it with Myrobalan.

This order prevents tannin, plant particles and yellow colour from being carried into and contaminating the indigo vat.

Suggested order:

1. Scour the cellulose textile thoroughly.

2. Dye it in a properly prepared indigo vat.

3. Oxidise and rinse the indigo-dyed textile thoroughly.

4. Apply Myrobalan using the cool tannin process.

5. Complete the second mordanting stage with alum and soda ash, aluminium acetate or aluminium lactate.

6. Rinse and finish the textile.

The combination can produce:

• Fresh botanical green

• Olive-green

• Blue-green

• Deep teal

The final shade depends on the depth of the indigo and the amount of Myrobalan used.

A deeper indigo base with a lighter Myrobalan treatment generally produces blue-green or teal. A lighter blue base followed by a stronger yellow can produce a clearer green.

Never place Myrobalan-treated or unrinsed tannin-rich textiles into an indigo vat.

Using Myrobalan with iron

Myrobalan reacts strongly with iron to produce green-grey, grey, charcoal and black.

For an iron-tannate colour, apply the Myrobalan treatment first and follow it with a carefully measured iron bath. This is a separate colour process and does not require the alum stage.

Begin with a low percentage of iron. The colour can change rapidly, and excessive iron may dull or weaken cellulose fibres over time.

For a complete method, see our downloadable recipe:

Myrobalan Dye Instructions for Cotton and Linen

Printing with Myrobalan

Myrobalan has a long history in textile printing, particularly on cotton.

It may be used to introduce tannin and yellow colour into the cloth before printing, or in processes where the tannin later reacts with aluminium or iron.

Ground Myrobalan contains insoluble fruit particles. It may need to be extracted, settled and finely strained before being combined with a printing thickener.

The exact preparation depends on:

• The printing method

• The thickener

• The chosen mordant

• The desired colour

• Whether the textile will be overdyed or modified after printing

Always test the printing paste for flow, penetration, colour development and washout before beginning an important piece.

Tips from the dye pot

Colour and tannin performance

The complete Myrobalan process can create anything from a light beige base to a vibrant yellow.

The final colour and effectiveness of the cellulose preparation depend on:

• Thorough scouring

• The amount of Myrobalan used

• Correct preparation of the whole or ground material

• Even tannin application

• Keeping the bath cool

• Avoiding rinsing and drying between stages

• Completion of the second mordanting stage

• Water chemistry

• Subsequent dyes or modifiers

• Rinsing, washing and aftercare

Myrobalan’s yellow is an active part of the finished colour and should not be treated as a neutral or colourless tannin.

Natural variation

This is a natural botanical material. Colour, fruit size, particle size, tannin strength and colour strength may vary between batches.

Whole Myrobalan fruits naturally vary in size, shape and surface texture. Ground material may range from beige and ochre to yellow-brown.

Small pieces of seed, fruit fibre and other natural plant material may be present.

Natural variation can influence both the yellow colour and the performance of the tannin bath. Always sample before beginning an important or colour-sensitive project.

Storage and safe handling

• Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• For textile dyeing, tanning, printing, paper and craft use only.

• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.

• Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling ground Myrobalan.

• Work in a well-ventilated area.

• Wear suitable respiratory and eye protection when dusty material may become airborne.

• Avoid contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.

• Wear gloves where appropriate.

• Follow the safety instructions for alum, soda ash, aluminium acetate, aluminium lactate, iron salts and every other auxiliary used.

• Use dedicated dyeing and printing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.

• Keep away from food and out of reach of children and pets.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of Indian Myrobalan in whole or ground form, supplied in a sealed pouch.

Alum, soda ash, aluminium acetate, aluminium lactate, iron salts, indigo and other dyeing materials are sold separately.

Display jars, dyed textiles and photographic props are not included.

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