OAKMOSS LICHEN DYE

Oakmoss Lichen Natural Dye

Evernia prunastri · North Macedonia · Responsibly Wild-Harvested

Oakmoss is a traditional lichen dye producing soft champagne beige, oatmeal, taupe and earthy brown shades.

Responsibly wild-harvested in the forests of North Macedonia, this dried lichen has a natural affinity with protein fibres and can colour wool and silk without a mordant. Appropriate mordanting or careful modification can influence the shade and improve consistency.

Despite its common name, oakmoss is not a true moss. It is a lichen that grows on the bark and branches of oak and other deciduous and coniferous trees.

At a glance

• Scientific name: Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach.

• Common name: Oakmoss

• Material type: Lichen

• Form: Whole and broken dried thalli

• Origin: North Macedonia

• Collection: Responsibly wild-harvested

• Colours: Champagne beige, oatmeal, taupe and earthy brown

• Fibres: Particularly suited to wool and silk; may be tested on prepared cellulose fibres

• Mordant: Not strictly required; results vary with mordant and modifier

• Suggested quantity: Begin with approximately 50% WOF or more

• Extraction: Approximately three hours

• Colourfastness: Good when suitably dyed and finished

• Product use: Textile dyeing and craft use only—not cosmetic grade

How much to use

Begin with:

50g oakmoss per 100g dry fibre

Equivalent to 50% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

These results are guidelines rather than guarantees. Natural lichen material varies, and the finished colour depends on the fibre, water chemistry, mordant, extraction method, temperature and processing time.

Basic guide for wool or silk

Ingredients

• At least 50g oakmoss per 100g dry fibre

• Thoroughly scoured wool or silk

• Mordant optional

• Optional 1–3% iron WOF

Method

1. Prepare: Scour the wool or silk thoroughly. A mordant is not strictly required, but a fibre-appropriate mordant may improve consistency or alter the shade.

2. Soak: Cover the oakmoss with water and leave it overnight.

3. Extract: Heat the oakmoss and soaking water gently for approximately three hours. Maintain a temperature of around 80–90°C (176–194°F) and replace evaporated water as required.

4. Strain: Strain carefully through a cloth or contain the oakmoss inside a securely tied dye bag.

5. Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted fibre and heat gently for approximately one hour.

6. Develop: Allow the fibre to cool in the dye bath. Leave it overnight if a deeper shade is required.

7. Modify: For deeper taupe or grey-brown, transfer the fibre to a separate, diluted iron afterbath.

8. Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently with a pH-neutral detergent.

Oakmoss is particularly suited to wool and silk.

When using cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre, follow a cellulose-specific preparation and mordanting method and sample before committing a large quantity.

Find suitable cellulose preparation and mordanting methods here.

Working with mordants

Oakmoss can produce colour on wool and silk without a mordant.

However, mordants and modifiers may influence the shade, depth, evenness, washfastness and long-term performance.

An alum mordant may produce a clearer or lighter beige, while iron may deepen the colour towards taupe, grey-brown and muted brown.

Because natural oakmoss varies, test each mordant or modifier on a small sample first.

Modifying with iron

Iron may shift oakmoss shades towards deeper taupe, grey-brown and muted brown.

Use approximately 1–3% iron WOF in a separate, well-diluted afterbath. Begin at the lower end and increase only if necessary.

Where possible, use iron acetate, as it is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate used on its own.

Options include:

• Prepared iron acetate

• Carefully made iron water

• Ferrous sulphate combined with sodium acetate

Homemade iron water varies considerably in strength and cannot be treated as a fixed-percentage solution. Test it on a small sample first.

A separate afterbath preserves the original oakmoss bath for additional beige shades and provides greater control.

Excessive iron can make textile fibres harsh or brittle and may contribute to long-term deterioration.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Oakmoss can produce good colourfastness when the fibre is suitably prepared, dyed and finished.

Performance depends on the batch of lichen, fibre, amount used, depth of shade, water chemistry, mordant, modifier, dyeing process and aftercare.

Although a mordant is not strictly required on wool and silk, suitable mordanting may improve consistency and durability.

Iron-modified shades may appear deeper, but a darker colour should not automatically be assumed to be more permanent. Excessive iron can damage textile fibres.

Wash dyed work gently with a pH-neutral detergent and avoid prolonged exposure to strong, direct sunlight.

Allergy information

Oakmoss and oakmoss extracts contain naturally occurring substances known to cause contact allergy in susceptible individuals.

This product is supplied as an unprocessed textile dye material. It is not cosmetic grade and has not been assessed for use in soap, perfume, skincare, body products or other cosmetic formulations.

Wear gloves and avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact.

Stop handling the material if irritation occurs. Seek appropriate medical advice if symptoms persist or become severe.

Storage and safe handling

• Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• Dry previously extracted oakmoss thoroughly before storing it.

• For textile dyeing and craft use only.

• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics, soap, perfume, skincare or medicinal preparations.

• Oakmoss may cause an allergic reaction in susceptible individuals.

• Avoid creating or breathing dust and fine particles.

• Avoid prolonged or repeated skin contact.

• Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.

• Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dry or wet material.

• Wear eye protection when preparing mordant or iron solutions.

• Follow the safety instructions for all mordants and modifiers used.

• Use iron sparingly, as excessive iron can damage textile fibres.

• Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation or cosmetic-making utensils.

• Keep away from food, children and pets.

For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for cosmetic use or consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of responsibly wild-harvested oakmoss lichen from North Macedonia, supplied dried in a pouch.

As this is a natural, wild-collected material, variations in colour, texture, moisture, fragment size and appearance should be expected.

Mordants, iron and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

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