OLD FUSTIC DYE

Old Fustic Hardwood Natural Dye

Maclura tinctoria · Dyer’s Mulberry · Yellowwood

Old fustic is a traditional hardwood dye obtained from Maclura tinctoria, a member of the mulberry family.

It produces bright, clear yellows and can be combined with indigo to create vibrant greens. Careful iron modification shifts the yellow towards olive, khaki and green-brown.

Fustic is a strong and economical dye material. Begin with approximately 50% WOF and retain the used wood chips, as they can often be extracted again for additional, progressively lighter dye baths.

At a glance

• Accepted botanical name: Maclura tinctoria (L.) D.Don ex G.Don

• Older synonyms: Chlorophora tinctoria and Morus tinctoria

• Common names: Old fustic, dyer’s mulberry and yellowwood

• Plant part: Hardwood

• Form: Cut wood chips

• Colours: Bright yellow, gold, green, olive and khaki

• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen

• Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method

• Suggested quantity: Approximately 50% WOF

• Colourfastness: Poor to moderate

• Reusable: The wood chips may be extracted more than once

• Vegan: Yes

How much to use

For a bright, clear yellow, begin with:

50g fustic hardwood per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 50% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

For a paler yellow, use less material or work with a later exhaust bath.

Deeper shades may be developed by using more fustic, extending the extraction, leaving the fibre in the cooling bath or combining the first and second wood extractions.

These quantities are starting points. Results vary according to the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction method, temperature and processing time.

Colour possibilities

Basic guide for wool

1. Mordant: Scour the wool and mordant with approximately 10% alum WOF, or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method. The wool may be left in the cooling mordant bath overnight.

2. Soak: Cover the fustic wood chips with hot water and leave overnight.

3. Extract: Heat the soaked wood and liquid gently at approximately 80–85°C (176–185°F) for about one hour.

4. Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth and retain the wood chips for another extraction.

5. Dye: Add the rinsed, thoroughly wetted wool and hold the bath at approximately 85°C (185°F) for one hour.

6. Develop: Turn off the heat and allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave overnight if a deeper shade is required.

7. Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.

Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.

Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.

Reusing the wood chips

Fustic hardwood can continue to release colour after its first extraction.

1. Retain the strained wood chips.

2. Dry them thoroughly if they will be stored.

3. Label them as previously extracted.

4. Cover them with fresh water when ready to reuse.

5. Simmer for approximately 45 minutes to one hour.

6. Strain and use the liquid for a second dye bath.

Repeated extractions will generally become progressively lighter. Several extractions may be combined to create a stronger bath.

Never store damp wood chips in a sealed container, as they may develop mould.

Old Fustic Hardwood Natural Dye

Maclura tinctoria · Dyer’s Mulberry · Yellowwood

Old fustic is a traditional hardwood dye obtained from Maclura tinctoria, a member of the mulberry family.

It produces bright, clear yellows and can be combined with indigo to create vibrant greens. Careful iron modification shifts the yellow towards olive, khaki and green-brown.

Fustic is a strong and economical dye material. Begin with approximately 50% WOF and retain the used wood chips, as they can often be extracted again for additional, progressively lighter dye baths.

At a glance

• Accepted botanical name: Maclura tinctoria (L.) D.Don ex G.Don

• Older synonyms: Chlorophora tinctoria and Morus tinctoria

• Common names: Old fustic, dyer’s mulberry and yellowwood

• Plant part: Hardwood

• Form: Cut wood chips

• Colours: Bright yellow, gold, green, olive and khaki

• Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen

• Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method

• Suggested quantity: Approximately 50% WOF

• Colourfastness: Poor to moderate

• Reusable: The wood chips may be extracted more than once

• Vegan: Yes

How much to use

For a bright, clear yellow, begin with:

50 g fustic hardwood per 100 g dry fibre
Equivalent to 50% WOF—weight of dry fibre.

For a paler yellow, use less material or work with a later exhaust bath.

Deeper shades may be developed by using more fustic, extending the extraction, leaving the fibre in the cooling bath or combining the first and second wood extractions.

These quantities are starting points. Results vary according to the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction method, temperature and processing time.

Colour possibilities

The order of dyeing affects the final green. Applying indigo over fustic or fustic over indigo can produce different balances of yellow and blue.

Basic guide for wool

1. Mordant: Scour the wool and mordant with approximately 10% alum WOF, or follow your preferred wool-mordanting method. The wool may be left in the cooling mordant bath overnight.

2. Soak: Cover the fustic wood chips with hot water and leave overnight.

3. Extract: Heat the soaked wood and liquid gently at approximately 80–85°C (176–185°F) for about one hour.

4. Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth and retain the wood chips for another extraction.

5. Dye: Add the rinsed, thoroughly wetted wool and hold the bath at approximately 85°C (185°F) for one hour.

6. Develop: Turn off the heat and allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave overnight if a deeper shade is required.

7. Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.

Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.

Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.

Reusing the wood chips

Fustic hardwood can continue to release colour after its first extraction.

1. Retain the strained wood chips.

2. Dry them thoroughly if they will be stored.

3. Label them as previously extracted.

4. Cover them with fresh water when ready to reuse.

5. Simmer for approximately 45 minutes to one hour.

6. Strain and use the liquid for a second dye bath.

Repeated extractions will generally become progressively lighter. Several extractions may be combined to create a stronger bath.

Never store damp wood chips in a sealed container, as they may develop mould.

CREATING GREEN WITH INDIGO

Fustic produces particularly useful greens when applied over indigo-dyed fibre.

Begin by dyeing the prepared fibre with indigo. Use one or more controlled dips, allowing the fibre to oxidise completely between each dip, until the required depth of blue is reached.

Rinse and finish the indigo-dyed fibre thoroughly. Mordant it using a method appropriate to the fibre, then apply the fustic yellow.

A pale indigo base followed by a strong fustic bath generally produces a brighter green. A deeper indigo base creates darker, cooler blue-green shades.

The final colour depends on:

• The depth of the indigo base
• The strength and condition of the indigo vat
• The number of indigo dips
• The strength of the fustic bath
• The mordant
• The fibre

Modifying with iron

Iron can shift fustic yellow towards olive, khaki, moss green and green-brown.

Begin with approximately 1-3% iron WOF in a separate, diluted afterbath. Increase only if necessary.

Excessive iron can make fibres harsh or brittle. Test a small sample, observe the colour continuously and remove the fibre as soon as the desired shade develops.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Old fustic’s colourfastness ranges from poor to moderate and depends on the fibre, mordant, dye concentration, depth of shade and aftercare.

Alum-mordanted yellows generally perform better than unmordanted shades, but fading may occur through prolonged exposure to strong light or repeated washing.

Fustic greens combine two dyes, so their performance depends on both the fustic layer and the method used to apply the indigo.

Sample and test when permanence is important. Protect finished work from strong, direct sunlight and wash gently when necessary.

Storage and safe handling

• Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.

• Dry previously extracted wood thoroughly before storing it.

• For textile dyeing and craft use only.

• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.

• Avoid creating or breathing wood dust and fine particles.

• Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.

• Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.

• Follow the safety instructions for all mordants, iron and indigo-vat ingredients used.

• Use iron sparingly, as excessive iron can damage textile fibres.

• Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.

• Keep away from food, children and pets.

For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of cut old fustic hardwood, supplied in a pouch.

Natural variations in chip size, colour and appearance should be expected.

Mordants, iron, indigo and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars and props are not included.

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