Old Man’s Beard Lichen Natural Dye
Usnea barbata (L.) F.H.Wigg. · Cut or Ground Lichen
Old Man’s Beard is a traditional lichen dye best known for warm peach, orange, rust, reddish-brown and tan shades.
A straightforward hot-water extraction produces the most dependable palette. Some batches may also produce experimental red, plum or purple shades through a lengthy ammonia fermentation, although these colours are much less predictable and generally more sensitive to light.
Choose between cut and ground Old Man’s Beard lichen.
At a glance
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Botanical name: Usnea barbata (L.) F.H.Wigg.
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Material name: Usnea barbata Lichen conc.
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Common name: Old Man’s Beard
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Material: Whole dried lichen thallus
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Available forms: Cut or ground
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Product type: Raw lichen dye material—not an extract
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Hot-water colours: Peach, orange, rust, tan and reddish-brown
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Fermented colours: Experimental red, plum and purple
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Best suited to: Wool and silk
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Other fibres: Cotton and linen when suitably prepared
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Suggested quantity: Approximately 50–100% WOF
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Mordant: Often dyes wool directly; recommended for greater consistency
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Hot-water colourfastness: Medium to good
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Fermented purple colourfastness: Poor to medium and particularly light-sensitive
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Suitable for vegan projects: Yes
Choosing a form
| Form | Suggested quantity | What to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Cut lichen | Approximately 75–100% WOF | Easy to soak, contain and strain; particularly suitable for longer extraction and possible reuse |
| Ground lichen | Approximately 50–100% WOF | Extracts more quickly but creates considerably more dust and sediment; best contained in a fine dye bag |
How much to use
Begin with:
50–100g Old Man’s Beard per 100g dry fibre
This is equivalent to 50–100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
Use the lower end for pale peach, beige and tan. Increase the amount for stronger orange, rust and reddish-brown shades.
Lichen chemistry varies naturally according to environmental conditions, exposure, harvest and processing. Colour strength may therefore differ noticeably between batches.
Sample first when working towards a particular shade.
Basic hot-water dyeing guide
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Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly and wet it before dyeing. For wool, approximately 10% alum WOF may be used.
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Soak: Cover the lichen with water and leave it overnight.
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Extract: Heat gently to approximately 80–90°C. Extract ground lichen for approximately one hour or cut lichen for two to three hours.
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Strain: Strain through a cloth. Ground lichen is best contained in a securely tied, fine dye bag.
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Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted fibre and hold the bath at approximately 80°C for one hour.
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Deepen: Allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight where a deeper shade is required.
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Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently using a pH-neutral detergent.
Old Man’s Beard can colour wool directly. Premordanting is nevertheless recommended for greater consistency and may influence the brightness and fastness of the finished shade.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.
Colour and mordant response
| Preparation or modifier | Likely colour direction |
|---|---|
| No mordant on wool | Soft tan, peach and orange-brown |
| Alum | Clearer peach, orange and warm rust |
| Stronger extraction | Rust and reddish-brown |
| Iron | Darker brown, olive-brown and grey-brown |
| Later extraction | Pale peach, beige and soft tan |
| Ammonia fermentation | Experimental red, plum or purple |
Colour descriptions are guides rather than guarantees. Ammonia-fermented shades are especially dependent on the chemistry of the individual batch.
Experimental ammonia fermentation
Some Usnea lichens contain compounds capable of developing red-purple or blue-purple colour through prolonged exposure to alkaline, oxygenated conditions.
This should be considered an advanced experimental process rather than the standard dyeing method.
The final result depends on:
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The chemical composition of the lichen
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The concentration of the ammonia product
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Dilution
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Regular introduction of oxygen
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Fermentation time and temperature
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Fibre and mordant
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Final dye-bath pH
Traditionally, the lichen is steeped in diluted ammonia for several weeks and aerated regularly. The solution may gradually move through reddish-brown, red and purple tones.
Household ammonia products vary greatly in concentration. Follow a complete recipe designed for the concentration being used rather than relying on a universal ratio.
Carry out ammonia fermentation outdoors or in a very well-ventilated workspace. Use a clearly labelled, chemically suitable container.
Never mix ammonia with bleach, chlorine products or acids. Dangerous gases may be released.
Do not heat concentrated ammonia solution or inhale its vapour.
Iron and colour modification
Iron shifts the warm peach, orange and rust shades towards darker brown, olive-brown and grey-brown.
Approximately 1–3% iron WOF is generally sufficient. Iron acetate is preferred where possible because it is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate.
Excessive iron may dull the colour and weaken fibres. Follow the handling and safety instructions supplied with the particular iron product.
Tips from the dye pot
| Tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Use hot water for dependable colour | A water extraction produces the most reliable peach, orange, rust and brown shades. |
| Allow time for cut material | Cut lichen benefits from a longer extraction than ground lichen. |
| Control ground material | Use a fine dye bag to contain powder and prevent it becoming caught in fibre. |
| Avoid vigorous boiling | Moderate heat is sufficient and is gentler on both the colour and fibre. |
| Reuse the bath | The material or remaining bath may produce a second, paler shade. |
| Treat purple as experimental | Fermented red-purple shades are variable and more sensitive to light. |
| Use the material fully | Lichens grow slowly, so retain and use any worthwhile exhaust baths. |
| Keep notes | Record the form, WOF, fibre, mordant, pH, temperature and processing time. |
Colourfastness
Hot-water peach, orange, rust and brown shades can have medium to good colourfastness when the fibre is properly prepared, dyed and finished.
Performance depends on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade, extraction method and aftercare.
Ammonia-developed red, plum and purple colours should be treated as having poor to medium colourfastness. Orcein-type purples are particularly sensitive to prolonged light exposure and may fade or change noticeably.
Storage and safe handling
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Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only.
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Do not consume or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
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Usnea contains naturally occurring lichen compounds, including usnic acid.
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Avoid creating or breathing dust, particularly when handling ground material.
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Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Lichens and their compounds may cause skin irritation or contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
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Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Wear eye protection and suitable particulate respiratory protection where dust cannot be adequately controlled.
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Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.
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When working with ammonia, wear chemical-resistant gloves and eye protection and ensure very good ventilation.
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Never mix ammonia with bleach, chlorine products or acids.
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Do not heat concentrated ammonia solution.
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Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
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Keep away from food, children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of cut or ground Old Man’s Beard lichen, supplied in a pouch.
Mordants, iron, ammonia and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars and other photographic props are not included.
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