ORGANIC ICELAND MOSS DYE

€7,50

A clear glass clamp-lid jar filled with dried herbs or tea, placed on a light wood surface in front of a wooden panel background.

A pile of small, shredded brown and beige moss, resting on a light wood-grained surface with a matching wood panel background.

Organic Iceland Moss Lichen Natural Dye

Cetraria islandica (L.) Ach. · Lichen islandicus · Dried and Cut

Iceland moss is a traditional lichen dye that produces warm, naturally varied shades of golden brown, yellow-brown, tan and muted greenish-brown.

Despite its common name, Iceland moss is not a moss. It is a slow-growing, ground-dwelling lichen containing naturally occurring lichen acids and other colour-bearing compounds.

This product is supplied as organic, dried and cut lichen thallus.

At a glance

Botanical name: Cetraria islandica (L.) Ach.
Traditional material name: Lichen islandicus
Trade material name: Islandicus Lichen BIO conc.
Material: Whole lichen thallus
Form: Dried and cut
Organic status: Organic
Product type: Raw botanical dye material - not an extract
Colours: Golden brown, yellow-brown, tan and muted greenish-brown
Best suited to: Wool and silk
Suggested quantity: Approximately 50–100% WOF
Mordant: Not always required; recommended for stronger and more consistent results
Colourfastness: Good when suitably prepared, dyed and finished
Suitable for vegan projects: Yes

A lichen rather than a moss

Iceland moss is the common name given to the thallus of Cetraria islandica. A lichen is a composite organism formed through a close relationship between a fungus and a photosynthetic partner.

Its principal lichen compounds include fumarprotocetraric, protocetraric and protolichesterinic acids. Experimental dyeing has associated Cetraria islandica with comparatively strong yellowish, brownish and greenish colours.

The most dependable colour range from a straightforward hot-water extraction is:

Golden brown
Yellow-brown
Warm tan
Oatmeal beige
Muted greenish-brown
Cooler grey-brown with iron

Iceland moss should not automatically be treated as an orchil lichen. Traditional orchil purples are produced from particular lichen species containing suitable chemical precursors and require a lengthy ammonia process. This listing focuses on the established water-extracted brown and yellow-brown palette of Cetraria islandica.

How much to use

Begin with:

50–100g dried Iceland moss per 100g dry fibre

This is equivalent to 50–100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

Use approximately 50% WOF for paler beige and tan shades. Increase the amount towards 100% WOF for stronger golden-brown and yellow-brown results.

Lichens are naturally variable. The colour will depend on the harvest, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH, temperature and processing time.

Sample first when working towards a particular shade.

Basic dyeing guide

Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly and wet it before dyeing. For wool, approximately 10% alum WOF may be used.
Soak: Cover the dried lichen with water and leave it to soak overnight.
Extract: Heat the lichen and soaking liquid gently to approximately 80°C for one hour.
Strain: Strain the liquid through a cloth, or keep the lichen contained inside a dye bag.
Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted fibre and hold the bath at approximately 80°C for 60–70 minutes.
Deepen: Allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight where a deeper shade is required.
Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently using a pH-neutral detergent.

Iceland moss can colour wool without a mordant. Pre-mordanting is nevertheless recommended because it can improve colour depth, consistency, lightfastness and rubbing fastness.

Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.

Colour and mordant response

Preparation or modifier	Likely colour direction
No mordant on wool	Soft tan to warm brown
Alum	Clearer golden brown and yellow-brown
Mildly acidic bath	Brighter or more yellow-toned shades
Mildly alkaline conditions	Darker or more muted brown
Iron	Cooler brown, grey-brown or muted greenish-brown
Later exhaust bath	Pale beige, oatmeal and soft tan

Make pH adjustments gradually and test a small portion of the bath before modifying the complete dye bath.

Strong acids and alkalis can damage fibres. Wool and silk require particular care under alkaline conditions.

Iron and colour modification

Iron can shift Iceland moss from warm golden-brown and tan towards cooler brown, grey-brown and muted greenish-brown.

Approximately 1–3% iron WOF is generally sufficient. Iron acetate is preferred where possible because it is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate.

Excessive iron may unnecessarily dull the shade and weaken the fibre. Always follow the handling and safety instructions supplied with the iron product.

Tips from the dye pot

Tip	Details
Soak overnight	A long soak helps hydrate the dried lichen before extraction.
Use moderate heat	Approximately 80°C is sufficient; vigorous boiling is unnecessary.
Use a dye bag	Containing the cut material prevents fragments becoming caught in wool and yarn.
Pre-mordant for strength	Pre-mordanting generally improves colour depth, lightfastness and rubbing fastness.
Reuse the bath	The lichen or remaining bath may produce a second, paler shade.
Expect variation	Natural variation in the material, water and fibre can noticeably affect the result.
Use it fully	Lichens grow slowly, so make full use of the original bath and any useful exhausts.
Keep notes	Record the WOF, fibre, mordant, pH, temperature and processing time.

Colourfastness

Iceland moss can produce good colourfastness on wool when the fibre is suitably prepared, dyed and finished.

Research comparing direct and premordant dyeing found improved colour depth, lightfastness and rubbing fastness from premordanting.

Performance still depends on the fibre, mordant, pH, depth of shade and aftercare. Protect finished textiles from prolonged strong sunlight and harsh or frequent washing.

Storage and safe handling

Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
For textile dyeing and craft use only.
Although Iceland moss is used in other industries, this product is supplied only as a dye and craft material.
Do not consume or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
Avoid creating or breathing dust.
Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin or known sensitivities to lichens or fungi.
Wear suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
Wear gloves and eye protection when working with mordants, acids, alkalis or iron.
Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.
Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
Keep away from food, children and pets.

For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of organic, dried and cut Iceland moss lichen, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, acids, alkalis, iron and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars and other photographic props are not included.

Learn with us

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