Organic St John’s Wort Natural Dye
Hypericum perforatum L. · Organic · Dried and Cut
Organic cut St John’s wort produces warm yellows, golden beige, old-gold and earthy olive-brown shades.
This dried botanical material consists of the flowering aerial parts of Hypericum perforatum. Alum encourages clearer yellows and golden shades, while iron shifts the colour towards olive, tobacco and muted brown.
The dried cut herb should not be expected to produce the reds sometimes associated with fresh flowers, seeds, infused oils or specialist solvent extractions.
At a glance
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Botanical name: Hypericum perforatum L.
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Trade name: Hyperici Hb. BIO conc.
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Plant part: Dried flowering aerial parts
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Form: Cut
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Organic status: Organic
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Material: Raw botanical dye material—not an extract
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Colours: Yellow, golden beige, old gold, olive and tobacco brown
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Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
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Mordant: Recommended
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Colourfastness: Medium to good; dependent on the fibre, mordant, depth of shade and aftercare
How much to use
Begin with approximately:
100g St John’s wort per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
Smaller quantities may produce paler beige-yellow shades. Colourant levels can vary naturally according to growing conditions, harvest time and the proportions of flowers, leaves and stems present in the batch.
The final shade will also depend on the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction temperature and length of time in the bath. Sample first when working towards a particular colour.
Basic dyeing guide
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Prepare: Scour and mordant the fibre using a suitable method, then wet it thoroughly. For wool, approximately 10% alum WOF provides a useful starting point.
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Soak: Cover the cut St John’s wort with water and leave it to soak overnight.
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Extract: Heat the soaked plant material and liquid to approximately 85–90°C for one hour. Avoid vigorous boiling.
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Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth, keeping the plant material out of the dye bath.
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Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted, mordanted fibre and hold the bath at approximately 80–85°C for one hour.
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Deepen: Allow the fibre to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight where a deeper shade is wanted.
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Finish: Remove the fibre, rinse thoroughly and wash gently.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable mordanting methods here.
Colour possibilities
| Method | Likely colour |
|---|---|
| Alum mordant | Clear yellow, golden yellow or old gold |
| No mordant | Softer tan or brownish yellow; mordanting is recommended for consistency |
| Iron modifier | Olive, tobacco brown or darker muted shades |
| Over blue | Greens when applied over fibre previously dyed with indigo or woad |
When creating green, dye the fibre blue with indigo or woad first. Rinse and finish the blue, mordant the fibre appropriately, and then overdye it with St John’s wort.
If using iron, begin with approximately 1–3% WOF. Iron acetate is generally gentler on fibres than ferrous sulphate. Excessive iron can weaken or damage textiles.
Tips from the dye pot
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Use gentle heat and avoid vigorous boiling.
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Alum generally produces a clearer yellow than an unmordanted bath.
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Keep the cut herb in a dye bag or strain it thoroughly.
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A second extraction or exhaust bath may produce useful paler shades.
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Natural variation in the plant material may influence the colour.
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Do not expect dried herb to reproduce the shades associated with fresh flowers or specialist solvent extractions.
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Record the fibre, mordant, water chemistry, quantity, temperature and processing time.
Colourfastness
St John’s wort can produce good wash and rubbing performance when the fibre is properly prepared, mordanted, dyed and finished.
Overall colourfastness is best described as medium to good. Lightfastness and long-term colour will vary according to the fibre, mordant, depth of shade, plant batch and exposure conditions.
Keep finished textiles away from prolonged strong sunlight and wash them gently when necessary.
Storage and safe handling
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Store tightly sealed, cool and dry, away from direct sunlight.
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For textile dyeing and craft use only.
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Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
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St John’s wort contains naturally occurring photosensitising compounds.
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Avoid prolonged skin contact with the herb, dust and concentrated dye liquid.
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Wash exposed skin after handling and avoid strong sunlight on affected skin.
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Avoid creating or breathing plant dust.
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Prevent contact with the eyes, mouth and open wounds.
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Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
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Follow the safety instructions for every mordant and modifier used.
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Excessive iron can weaken or damage fibres.
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Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.
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Keep away from food, children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of organic cut St John’s wort, supplied in a pouch.
Mordants, iron, indigo, woad and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars and other photographic props are not included.
Learn with us
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