Lac Dye - A Beautiful Violet to Red to Brown Colour

Lac dye is a rich and versatile natural dye, known for its use in the iconic Tibetan Monks’ tunic. Unlike the vivid brightness of cochineal red, Lac produces a more mature, wine-like red tone that evolves from violet to red, and then into a warm brown.

What is Lac?
Lac is a resinous secretion produced by several species of lac insects, with the most commonly cultivated species being Kerria lacca. The cultivation process starts when a farmer attaches a brood lac stick, containing eggs ready to hatch, to a tree. As the insects hatch, they colonise the branches of the host trees and secrete the resin that forms the pigment. The branches are then harvested and processed into stick lac, which is crushed and sieved to remove impurities. The resulting product, seed lac, is further refined to produce shellac.

Colour fastness:
Good to excellent, ensuring lasting and vibrant hues.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing with Lac:

• 3-5% Lac (based on the weight of your material)
• Wool (no mordant required)
• 10-15% Alum (if using more than 5% Lac, or if preferred)

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Lac in warm water and add it to your dye pot.
2. Immerse the wool (pre-wetted) into the dye bath, bringing it to a gentle simmer.
3. Allow the dye bath to simmer for one hour, ensuring the pigment thoroughly saturates the wool.
4. After an hour, turn off the heat and leave the wool to steep in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse the wool thoroughly and allow it to air dry.

One dye bath can be used to dye multiple skeins of yarn, making this an economical and efficient option for larger projects.

Additional Tip:
For enhanced colour depth, I would recommend a 20-minute vinegar soak after rinsing. This additional step enriches the dyed fibres and ensures a more vibrant finish.

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Catechu Dye – Dye Colour: Brown and Beige | Botanical: Acacia catechu | Produced & Processed in India

Catechu, also known as Cutch, is a versatile natural dye that produces a beautiful range of brown and beige shades on cotton, silk, and wool fibres. This dye is composed of two components: catechu-tannic acid, which dissolves in cold water, and catechin, which requires hot water for extraction. Catechu is rich in tannins and will dye without the need for a mordant, though it can also benefit from one for brighter results. Some even suggest Catechu may help those with eczema – an added bonus for a naturally healing dye!

Colour Fastness: Good

Product Details:

• Dye Colour: Brown and Beige
• Perfect for: Cotton, silk, and wool fibres
• Mordant Optional: Alum for brighter colours, Iron for darker results

Basic Recipe:

1. Ingredients:
   • 200g wool (mordant optional)
   • 20g Catechu extract (made into paste with boiling water)
2. Instructions:
   • Add the Catechu paste to the dye pot with hot water and stir regularly.
   • Add the mordanted wool and simmer for 1 hour.
   • Leave the wool in the dye bath overnight for a deeper colour.
   • Let the wool oxidize before rinsing.

Note:

• Catechu is difficult to exhaust, meaning you can add more wool later for lighter tones.
• Mordanting the wool with Alum will give brighter results, but Catechu will still produce rich browns without it. For darker shades, use an Iron mordant.

Enjoy the versatility of Catechu dye and explore its potential for a wide range of beautiful brown and beige hues in your projects!

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Chlorophyllin Extract
Source: Alfalfa, Stinging Nettles, and Other Edible Plants

Chlorophyllin Extract is a concentrated natural dye obtained from plants like alfalfa and stinging nettles. Specially developed, this vibrant green extract is ideal for your natural dyeing applications.

Main Constituent:

• Copper Chlorophyllins

Suggested Quantities:

• For light tones: Use 5–10% of the fabric weight (WOF).
• For medium shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For deeper shades: Use 20–30% WOF.

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing & Textile Printing: This extract is suitable for any fibre that has been mordanted. Various shades of green can be achieved depending on the formula and mordant used.
• Fine Arts & Decoration: Ideal for aqueous formulations such as fine paints, watercolours, and natural inks.
• Other Applications: Can also be used to colour aqueous solutions, binders, cleaning products, and liquid soaps.

Chlorophyllin:
Chlorophyll is the primary pigment in plants, responsible for photosynthesis. It captures light energy and converts it into biochemical energy. As the seasons change, chlorophyll breaks down in autumn, revealing other pigments and creating the vibrant colours of the season. Chlorophyllin, the molecule used in dyeing, is chemically similar to hemoglobin, an essential molecule in animals.

Light Fastness:
Chlorophyllin extract has poor to moderate lightfastness. It is recommended for indoor applications or fabrics that won't be exposed to prolonged direct sunlight.

Traditional Chlorophyllin Dye Recipe

Ingredients:

• 20g Chlorophyllin Extract (or use the WOF formula above)
• 1 litre water (adjust according to fabric volume)
• Mordanted fabric (cotton, wool, silk)

Instructions:

1. Mordant the Fabric: Pre-mordant your fabric with alum and cream of tartar, or gallnuts and aluminium acetate.
2. Dissolve the Extract: Dissolve 20g of Chlorophyllin Extract in 1 litre of warm water. Stir well to ensure it dissolves completely.
3. Heat the Dye Bath: Bring the dye bath to a gentle simmer (around 80°C) and add the mordanted fabric.
4. Dye the Fabric: Allow the fabric to simmer for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally.
5. Rinse and Dry: Once the desired colour is achieved, remove the fabric, rinse in cool water, and dry in the shade.

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MADDER EXTRACT ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

Madder Extract is a premium natural dye derived from the roots of the Rubia tinctorum plant. Known for its rich history and vibrant red tones, Madder Extract creates hues that range from soft pinks to deep, earthy reds. This versatile extract also works as a mordant, enhancing dye absorption and improving colour fastness on cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp.

We offer two kinds of Madder: Standard Madder and Madder III.

• Madder III will create rich red hues on all textiles.
• Standard Madder creates reds on wool and pinks/oranges on cellulose fibres.

Key Features:

• Natural Dye: Produces beautiful shades from soft pinks and coral to deep reds and terracotta.
• Ideal for all textiles: Perfect for dyeing wool, silk, cotton, linen, hemp, and other plant-based fabrics.
• Rich in Anthraquinones: Known for producing vibrant and long-lasting colours.

How to Use:

• For Light Tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).
• For Medium Shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For Deep, Rich Hues: Use 20–30% WOF.
• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron (1–3% WOF) to achieve deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for best results. For optimal colour retention and depth, use Madder Extract in combination with other mordants.

Sustainably Sourced:

Madder plants are grown across Europe and Asia, where their roots have been prized for centuries in textile dyeing. Known for their vibrant, red hues, Madder Extract is an eco-friendly option for creating sustainable and striking colours in your textile projects.

Perfect for Eco-Conscious Crafters:

Whether you're a textile artist, natural dyer, or eco-friendly crafter, Madder Extract offers a versatile, sustainable dye solution for your projects. Discover the timeless beauty of Madder and add rich, natural colour to your creations!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

MADDER EXTRACT ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

Madder Extract is a premium natural dye derived from the roots of the Rubia tinctorum plant. Known for its rich history and vibrant red tones, Madder Extract creates hues that range from soft pinks to deep, earthy reds. This versatile extract also works as a mordant, enhancing dye absorption and improving colour fastness on cellulose fibres like cotton, linen, and hemp.

We offer two kinds of Madder: Standard Madder and Madder III.

• Madder III will create rich red hues on all textiles.
• Standard Madder creates reds on wool and pinks/oranges on cellulose fibres.

Key Features:

• Natural Dye: Produces beautiful shades from soft pinks and coral to deep reds and terracotta.
• Ideal for all textiles: Perfect for dyeing wool, silk, cotton, linen, hemp, and other plant-based fabrics.
• Rich in Anthraquinones: Known for producing vibrant and long-lasting colours.

How to Use:

• For Light Tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).
• For Medium Shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For Deep, Rich Hues: Use 20–30% WOF.
• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron (1–3% WOF) to achieve deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for best results. For optimal colour retention and depth, use Madder Extract in combination with other mordants.

Sustainably Sourced:

Madder plants are grown across Europe and Asia, where their roots have been prized for centuries in textile dyeing. Known for their vibrant, red hues, Madder Extract is an eco-friendly option for creating sustainable and striking colours in your textile projects.

Perfect for Eco-Conscious Crafters:

Whether you're a textile artist, natural dyer, or eco-friendly crafter, Madder Extract offers a versatile, sustainable dye solution for your projects. Discover the timeless beauty of Madder and add rich, natural colour to your creations!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

Logwood Extract
Source: Haematoxylum campechianum L.

Logwood extract is a non-oxidised plant extract derived from the wood of the logwood tree. Known for its strong colouring power, it is used as a natural dye.

Key Molecules:

• Haematoxylin (non-oxidised)
• Haematein (oxidised)
• Tannins

Uses:

• Dyeing and Textile Printing: Produces purple, grey, black, or navy shades on protein fibres and leather, depending on mordant and fibre type.
• Deep Blacks: For black shades, combine with gallotannins (sumach/oak gallnut) and mordant with iron. We would use Indigo as well.
• Other Uses: Natural inks, corrosion protection.

Plant Background:
Logwood (Haematoxylum campechianum) is a small to medium-sized tree native to the Bay of Campeche in the southeastern part of Mexico. It thrives in tropical climates and is primarily found in Central America, the West Indies, and parts of South America. The tree has a distinctive red wood, which is where it gets its name, and the wood itself is highly valued for its potent dyeing properties.

Historically, logwood was highly prized as a dye material and became one of the first commercially exploited resources of the New World. Following its introduction to Europe in the early 16th century, logwood was used to produce vibrant purple, blue, and black dyes. During the 17th century, England imposed a law that prohibited its use for a time to protect the domestic dyeing industry, but by the 18th century, it became widely used in Europe and other parts of the world for dyeing textiles, especially for black clothing, which was particularly fashionable in the 19th century.

The logwood tree has small, yellowish flowers and dense, dark green leaves, with the heartwood containing the dyeing agents. It can grow up to 20 metres in height and is a resilient plant, well-suited to tropical environments. While it is native to Central America, the logwood tree has been introduced and is now found in various tropical regions around the world, including the Caribbean and parts of Asia.

Logwood Dye Recipe

Ingredients:

• Logwood Extract (5-25% WOF)
• 1 litre  of water (adjust for fabric volume)
• Mordanted fabric (cellulose/protein/leather)
• Optional: Gallotannins (sumac/oak gallnut) and ferrous salts for black shades

Instructions:

1. Mordant fabric with alum (light shades) or iron (dark shades).
2. Dissolve Logwood Extract in warm water.
3. Heat dye bath, then add fabric.
4. Simmer for 45-60 minutes or longer for deeper shades.
5. For black shades, use gallo tannins and iron.
6. Rinse fabric and dry in the shade.

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Chestnut Extract ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

CHESTNUT EXTRACT from OCCITANIA | manufactured in the South of France

Chestnut Extract is a premium natural dye and tannin derived from the sustainable regrowth of chestnut trees in the South of France. Known for its eco-friendly production process, this extract offers a zero-waste solution by repurposing the remaining wood for construction materials. Rich in hydrolysable tannins (ellagic type), Chestnut Extract provides exceptional dyeing and tanning properties.

Key Features:

• Natural Dye & Tannin – Produces warm beige, brown, and grey tones on mordanted fibres.

• Sustainable & Zero-Waste – Created without external water usage, ensuring minimal environmental impact.

• Versatile Application – Ideal for textile dyeing, printing, and leather tanning.

How to Use:

• For Light Tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).

• For Medium Shades: Use 10–20% WOF.

• For Deep, Rich Hues: Use 20–30% WOF.

• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron (1–3% WOF) for deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for the best results. For optimal colour retention and depth, use Chestnut Extract in combination with other mordants.

Sustainably Sourced:

The chestnut tree, reaching heights of 25–30 metres, thrives around the Mediterranean and across temperate regions of Europe, North Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Historically used for dyeing and tanning, its large-scale use only emerged in the 19th century. Due to overexploitation and disease, chestnut groves have diminished, making sustainable sourcing essential for preserving this valuable natural resource.

Traditional Chestnut Dye Recipe:

Ingredients:

• 50g Chestnut Extract (or use the WOF formula)

• 1 litre water to dissolve, adjust water according the textile volume

• Mordanted fabric (cotton, wool, silk)

• Optional: Iron modifier for grey tones

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Chestnut Extract in warm water, stirring well.

2. Submerge pre-mordanted fabric and heat for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. For deeper shades, allow the fabric to soak overnight.

4. Rinse thoroughly and dry in the shade.

5. (Optional) For grey tones, dip the dyed fabric in an iron modifier bath.

Perfect for Eco-Conscious Crafters:

Whether you're a textile artist, natural dyer, or eco-friendly crafter, Chestnut Extract offers a versatile, sustainable dye solution. Discover the timeless beauty of natural dyes and bring rich, earthy tones to your creations!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

QUEBRACHO EXTRACT ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

Quebracho Extract, sourced from the bark of the Schinopsis tree, is a mild natural dye, rich in tannins. Traditionally used in textile dyeing, it enhances colour fixation on cellulose fibers, producing a range of warm, earthy hues from soft peach to reddish-brown. When combined with iron, it creates deeper, muted tones, making it perfect for creating nice, sustainable shades.

Uses & Benefits:

• Mordanting: Prepares cellulose fibers (ie. cotton, linen, hemp) for enhanced dye absorption.
• Dyeing: Produces vibrant peach, coral, terracotta, and red-brown hues, deepening when combined with iron.
• Versatile Applications: Ideal for textile arts, eco-conscious dyeing, and creating unique colour effects with natural mordants.

About the Plant:

Quebracho trees, native to South America, especially Argentina and Paraguay, are highly valued for their tannin-rich bark. Used for centuries in leather tanning, traditional dyeing, and natural medicine, Quebracho has a rich history in sustainable practices.

Recommended Usage for Dyeing:

• For light tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).
• For medium shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For deeper hues: Use 20–30% WOF.
• To create darker shades: Combine with iron (1–2% WOF) for deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for best results. For optimal colour retention and vibrancy, use Quebracho Extract as a pre-mordant or combine with other natural mordants.

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Acacia Extract
Source: Black Acacia (Acacia mearnsii De Wild)

Acacia Extract is a high-quality, plant-based tannin obtained from the bark of Black Acacia, also known as "Black Wattle" or "Mimosa." Rich in condensed tannins (60-65%), this extract offers excellent versatility for both pre-treatment and dyeing applications.

Main Components:

• Condensed Tannins 60-65%
• Flavonoids (chalcones)

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 5-10% WOF for beige tones.
• Medium Shades: Use 10-15% WOF for brown hues.
• Dark Shades: Use 15-20% WOF for grey and near-black tones when combined with ferrous sulfate.
• Deep Black Shades: Combine with other tannins (e.g., Tara) and extracts (e.g., Logwood) for rich, dark colours with iron sulfate.

Uses:

• Pre-Treatment of Cellulose Fibres: Acacia extract is highly rich in tannins, perfect for pre-treating cellulosic fibres to enhance mordant fixation and improve colour adhesion. Due to its natural colour, it will impart a slight tint to the fibres.
• Natural Dyeing & Textile Printing of Cellulose: Acacia extract can be used with or without mordant, producing shades ranging from beige and brown to grey and almost black. Combining with other tannins and iron sulfate results in rich, dark shades.
• Other Uses: Ideal for tannery applications, adhesives in the wood industry, and corrosion protection for metals.

The Plant:
Black Acacia, or Acacia mearnsii, is native to southeastern Australia and has become widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions worldwide, including South and East Africa, Brazil, and India. Known as the largest global source of plant tannins, the bark of Black Acacia contains 30-40% tannins (pro-anthocyanidins) and flavonoids, making it a valuable resource for a variety of industries.

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Grape Seed Extract
Source: White Grape Seeds (Vitis Vinifera L.) | Grape Seed Extract from Occitania

Grape Seed Extract is a 100% natural dye made from the seeds of white grapes, upcycled from the by-products of the wine-making industry. Produced sustainably through a water-based extraction process, this extract supports circular economy principles, offering an eco-friendly option for textile dyeing and beyond.

Main Components:

• Condensed Tannins > 70% (catechin equivalent)
• Eco-friendly, upcycled product
• Water-extracted for minimal environmental impact

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 5–10% WOF for soft, pinky-beige hues (without mordant).
• Medium Shades: Use 10–15% WOF for more intense colour.
• Dark Shades: Use 5–20% WOF and combine with mordants such as iron for darker tones like grey.

Uses:

• Natural Dye & Textile Printing: Suitable for all types of fibres, whether mordanted or not. Typical shades depend on the recipe and mordant, including pinky-beige (no mordant), grey (with iron), and orange (with titanium). The extract is registered as "metal-free" and provides good lightfastness.
• Other Uses: Ideal for tannery processes, antioxidants, and more.

The Plant:
The vine (Vitis vinifera) is a woody, climbing plant, known for its long stems that can grow up to six metres. Its small flowers are greenish-white, and the fruits are grape clusters. Grapes have been cultivated for thousands of years in Europe, western Asia, and northern Africa. They are used for fresh eating, drying as raisins, or fermentation to produce wine.

Upcycling of By-products:
Grape Seed Extract is produced through the upcycling of wine industry by-products, contributing to circular economy practices. The wine industry offers a wealth of natural ingredients such as wines, juices, concentrates, and polyphenols, while minimizing waste through innovation and new technologies. The producer is located in the heart of the South of France’s vineyard region and proudly contributes to this sustainable bio-economy.

Recipe for Dyeing with Grape Seed Extract:

Ingredients:

• Grape Seed Extract (use WOF formula)
• 1 litre of water to dissolve (adjust based on the amount of fabric)
• Pre-mordanted fabric (cotton, wool, silk)
• Optional: Iron modifier for grey tones

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Grape Seed Extract in warm water, stirring well until fully dissolved.
2. Add pre-mordanted or not mordanted fabric to the dye bath.
3. Heat the fabric in the dye bath for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally, leave overnight (optional).
   
4. Rinse thoroughly in cold water and dry in the shade.
5. Optional: For grey tones, dip the dyed fabric in an iron modifier bath.

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Sumac Gallnut Extract
Source: Chinese Sumac Gallnut (Rhus semialata Murr.)

Sumac Gallnut Extract is a natural extract derived from the Chinese sumac gallnut, specifically developed for textile and natural dyeing applications. With a high tannic acid content and very low colour, this extract is ideal for pre-treating fibers and enhancing dye fixation.

Main Constituents:

• Hydrolysable Tannins (> 95%)
  
• Very low dust production during handling
• Highly soluble in both cold and hot water

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Mordanting: Use 5–10% of fabric weight (WOF).
• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron sulphate (1–3% WOF) for deeper, darker tones.

Uses:

• Pre-treatment of Vegetable Fibres: This extract’s high tannic acid content is perfect for pre-treating cellulosic fibres to improve the fixation of mordants during the mordanting step.
• Natural Dyeing & Textile Printing: Any fibre can be dyed with Sumac Gallnut Extract. It enhances the lightfastness of resulting colours. When combined with iron sulphate, it forms dark, solid complexes that are perfect for shading darker shades (e.g. madder, indigo) on silk and wool, while reducing the risk of weakening fibres.
• Other Uses: Used in tannery processes and the manufacture of iron gall inks.

The Plant:
The Chinese sumac is a shrub ranging from 2 to 10m tall, native to northeastern India, China, Japan, Korea, and Indonesia. The galls are caused by the sting of an insect, usually a kind of wasp, on the leaves or bud. Sumac gallnuts are rich in hydrolysable tannins, particularly tannic acid.

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MYROBALAN EXTRACT ~ Tannin Mordant & Natural Dye

Myrobalan Extract, derived from the nuts of Terminalia chebula, is a rich source of natural tannins, including gallic and ellagic acid. Traditionally used in textile dyeing and printing, it enhances mordant fixation on cellulose fibers and produces shades ranging from light yellow to deep brown. Combined with iron, it is a key ingredient in creating grey and black tones.

Uses & Benefits:

• Mordanting: Prepares cellulose and protein fibres for improved dye absorption.

• Dyeing & Printing: Produces soft yellow to brown tones, deepening when used with alum or iron.

• Versatile Applications: Used in tannery, ink preparation, and silk processing.

About the Plant:

Chebulic Myrobalan grows across Asia and parts of Africa, prized for its tannin-rich fruits. It has been used for centuries in textile traditions, tannery, and even traditional medicine.

Recommended Usage for Dyeing:

• As a mordant for cellulose fibres: Use 10–20% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).

• For light yellow tones: Use 5–10% WOF.

• For deeper brown shades: Use 20–30% WOF.

• When used with iron for greys and blacks: Start with 10–15% WOF of Myrobalan, then follow with an iron afterbath (1–3% WOF).

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to the dye bath for best results.

For optimal results, use as a pre-mordant or in combination with iron for darker tones.

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