Homegrown Irish Weld Natural Dye
Reseda luteola L. · Grown, Harvested and Prepared in County Clare
Our Irish weld is grown, hand-harvested, dried and shredded by us in County Clare from our own carefully saved seed.
We grow it according to organic growing standards, without synthetic pesticides or herbicides. Our crop is not certified organic and is therefore not sold as a certified-organic product.
This small-scale crop has produced exceptionally strong, clear yellows in our own dye trials. When compared with German imported weld, our Irish-grown plants produced the strongest and most vibrant result.
Annual quantities are limited by the size of our crop and the growing season.
At a glance
-
Botanical name: Reseda luteola L.
-
Common names: Weld, dyer’s weld, dyer’s rocket and dyer’s reseda
-
Plant part: Shredded dried aerial parts
-
Grown in: County Clare, Ireland
-
Seed source: Our own carefully saved seed
-
Production: Grown, harvested, dried and prepared by AppleOak FibreWorks
-
Growing method: Grown to organic standards using regenerative practices
-
Certification: Not certified organic
-
Colours: Clear yellow, lemon yellow, gold and green when layered over indigo
-
Fibres: Wool, silk, cotton and linen
-
Mordant: Recommended; use a fibre-appropriate method
-
Suggested quantity: Approximately 50–100% WOF
-
Colourfastness: Excellent when suitably mordanted, dyed and finished
-
Availability: Limited annual harvest
Grown by us in County Clare
Our weld begins with seed saved from our own plants.
The crop is raised, tended and harvested by hand. We follow organic growing standards and do not use synthetic pesticides or herbicides, but the crop is not independently certified organic.
Spent dye plants from our studio pass through our worm-composting system. The resulting compost is returned to the garden to help nourish future crops.
This creates a practical cycle:
Seed → Plant → Harvest → Dye → Compost → Soil → Seed
Because our weld is produced on a small scale, the available quantity varies from one harvest to another.
Why weld?
Weld is one of the most highly regarded traditional yellow dye plants.
Its principal yellow colourants produce clear, vibrant yellows with excellent lightfastness when applied to suitably prepared and mordanted fibres.
Weld is also particularly useful for creating greens. When applied over an indigo-dyed and subsequently mordanted fibre, its clear yellow combines with the blue base to produce fresh greens, historic-style greens and deeper blue-green shades.
How much to use
Begin with:
50–100g dried weld per 100g dry fibre
Equivalent to 50-100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.
| Quantity |
Expected result |
| Approximately 50% WOF |
Clear medium yellow |
| Approximately 75% WOF |
Strong yellow |
| Approximately 100% WOF |
Rich, warm and vibrant yellow |
| Later exhaust bath |
Pale yellow |
| Applied over indigo |
Clear green to deep blue-green |
| Light iron afterbath |
Olive, khaki or green-grey |
Our strongest test shade was achieved at approximately 100% WOF.
These quantities are guidelines only. Results depend on the harvest, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, extraction method, pH, temperature and processing time.
Basic guide for wool
Ingredients
-
50–100 g dried weld per 100 g dry wool
-
Wool mordanted with approximately 10% alum WOF
-
Optional soda ash for carefully raising the pH for a stronger colour.
Method
-
Prepare: Scour the wool thoroughly and mordant it with approximately 10% alum WOF, or use your preferred wool-mordanting method.
-
Soak: Cover the shredded weld with water and leave for several hours or overnight.
-
Extract: Heat the soaked weld and liquid to approximately 80°C (176°F) and hold for one hour. Avoid vigorous boiling.
-
Adjust if required: If a clearer or stronger yellow is required, dissolve soda ash separately and add it gradually. Test the bath with pH strips and avoid excessive alkalinity, particularly when working with wool or silk.
-
Strain: Strain the dye liquid through a cloth. Alternatively, place the weld in a dye bag and retain it in the bath.
-
Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted, mordanted wool and hold at approximately 80°C (176°F) for one hour.
-
Develop: Turn off the heat and allow the wool to cool in the bath. Leave it overnight if a deeper shade is required.
-
Finish: Rinse thoroughly and wash gently with a pH-neutral detergent.
Do not automatically add 7–10% soda ash WOF. Water chemistry varies, and excessive alkalinity can damage protein fibres. Add only as much as the individual bath requires.
Protein and cellulose fibres require different preparation.
Dyeing cotton, linen or another cellulose fibre? Find suitable preparation and mordanting methods here.
Creating green with indigo
Always apply the colours in this order:
-
Dye the fibre in a correctly prepared indigo vat.
-
Allow it to oxidise completely between dips.
-
Rinse the indigo-dyed fibre thoroughly.
-
Mordant the fibre using a suitable method.
-
Apply the weld yellow bath.
Do not apply weld before indigo.
A pale indigo base followed by a strong weld bath generally produces a brighter green. A deeper indigo base produces darker, cooler or more blue-dominant greens.
The final green depends on the indigo depth, vat condition, number of dips, weld strength, mordant, fibre and water chemistry.
Modifying with iron
Iron can shift weld yellow towards olive, khaki, moss green and green-grey.
Use approximately 1–3% iron WOF, beginning at the lower end of the range. Apply it in a separate, well-diluted afterbath and remove the fibre as soon as the required shade develops.
Where possible, use iron acetate, as it is generally gentler on textile fibres than ferrous sulphate used on its own.
Options include:
Homemade iron water varies in strength and should be tested on a small sample rather than treated as a fixed-percentage solution.
Excessive iron can make fibres harsh, brittle or vulnerable to deterioration.
Reusing the weld
Weld may continue to release colour after its first extraction.
Retain the strained plant material and extract it again with fresh water. A second extraction will usually be lighter, but it can be used independently or combined with another bath.
Dry previously extracted weld thoroughly if it will be stored. Do not seal damp plant material inside a container.
Tips from the dye garden and dye pot
| Tip |
Details |
| Choose the quantity |
Use approximately 50–100% WOF. Our strongest test yellow was achieved at 100% WOF. |
| Soak before extraction |
Soaking for several hours or overnight helps begin the extraction. |
| Control the heat |
Hold the extraction and dye bath at approximately 80°C rather than boiling vigorously. |
| Brighten carefully |
Alum generally produces a clear yellow. Add soda ash gradually only when a more alkaline bath is required. |
| Layer greens correctly |
Dye indigo first, rinse, mordant and then apply weld. |
| Use iron sparingly |
Begin at 1% WOF and increase only if necessary. Iron acetate is preferable where practical. |
| Reuse the plants |
A second extraction may produce useful paler yellows. |
| Keep notes |
Record the harvest, WOF, mordant, pH, extraction time, temperature and modifiers. |
Colourfastness
Weld can produce excellent lightfastness when the fibre is suitably prepared, mordanted, dyed and finished.
Washfastness and long-term performance still depend on the fibre, mordant, dye quantity, depth of shade, water chemistry and aftercare.
Greens created with weld and indigo depend on the performance of both colour layers.
Iron-modified shades may appear darker but should not automatically be assumed to be more permanent.
Wash dyed work gently with a pH-neutral detergent and avoid prolonged exposure to strong, direct sunlight.
Storage and safe handling
-
Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.
-
For textile dyeing and craft use only.
-
Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.
-
Avoid creating or breathing plant dust and fine particles.
-
Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.
-
Wear gloves and suitable protective equipment when handling dusty material.
-
Wear eye protection when preparing mordant, soda ash or iron solutions.
-
Make pH adjustments gradually and avoid unnecessarily alkaline conditions.
-
Follow the safety instructions for all mordants, alkalis, iron compounds and indigo-vat ingredients used.
-
Use iron sparingly, as excessive iron can damage textile fibres.
-
Use dedicated dyeing equipment - never food-preparation utensils.
-
Keep away from food, children and pets.
For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.
What you receive
Your chosen net weight of homegrown, shredded and dried Irish weld, supplied in a pouch.
This is a natural, small-batch plant material. Variations in stem size, leaf content, colour and appearance should be expected between harvests.
This crop is grown according to organic standards but is not certified organic.
Mordants, soda ash, iron, indigo and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.
Packaging
We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.
Display jars are not included.
Learn with us
Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your results, ask questions and explore natural colour alongside fellow natural dyers and dye-plant growers.
