SAFFLOWER DYE

Safflower Natural Dye

Carthamus tinctorius · Dried Petals · Iran

Safflower petals contain two distinctly different sources of natural colour: an easily extracted, water-soluble yellow and the traditional red pigment known as carthamin.

The soft yellow is produced with water and gentle heat and is particularly suitable for wool and silk. Creating the red is a more advanced process: the yellow must first be washed from the petals before the remaining carthamin is extracted under cool alkaline conditions and developed by carefully lowering the pH.

At a glance

• Botanical name: Carthamus tinctorius

• Plant part: Dried flower petals

• Origin: Iran

• Colours: Soft warm yellow and traditional pink-red to red

• Yellow dye: Particularly suitable for wool and silk

• Red dye: Suitable for all natural fibres, including silk, cotton, linen, wool and other animal or plant fibres; silk and cotton were especially important in traditional use

• Suggested quantity: Approximately 100% WOF

• Mordant for yellow: Approximately 15% alum WOF for protein fibres

• Red extraction: Repeated washing followed by alkaline extraction and acidification

• Colourfastness: Poor to moderate; protect finished work from strong light

Two colours from one flower

Safflower’s yellow and red colourants require different processes.

The red process is considerably more involved and is best suited to dyers who are comfortable monitoring and adjusting pH. Silk and cotton were particularly important traditional fibres for safflower red, but the colour can be used on other natural fibres too.

How much to use

Begin with:

100g safflower petals per 100g dry fibre

Equivalent to 100% WOF - weight of dry fibre.

The final result depends on the petals, fibre, mordant, water chemistry, pH, extraction method and processing time. Sample first when working towards a particular colour.

Basic yellow recipe for wool or silk

Ingredients

• 100g safflower petals

• 100g wool or silk

• Approximately 15g alum - equivalent to 15% WOF

Method

1. Prepare: Scour the fibre thoroughly and mordant it with approximately 15% alum WOF, or use your preferred protein-fibre mordanting method.

2. Soak: Cover the safflower petals with water and leave overnight.

3. Extract: Bring the petals and soaking water to a gentle simmer and hold for approximately one hour.

4. Strain: Strain the yellow liquid through a cloth.

5. Dye: Add the thoroughly wetted, mordanted fibre and simmer gently for approximately one hour.

6. Cool: Allow the fibre to cool in the dye bath where practical.

7. Finish: Rinse gently, wash with a suitable pH-neutral detergent and dry away from direct sunlight.

Traditional red process for natural fibres

The water-soluble yellow must be removed before the red pigment can be extracted. Safflower red can be used on all natural fibres, although silk and cotton were especially important in traditional dyeing.

1. Prepare the fibre: Scour the natural fibre thoroughly. Suitable fibres include silk, cotton, linen, wool and other animal or plant fibres.

2. Wash the petals: Place the petals in cool water and knead them thoroughly. A bag can come in handy.

3. Remove the yellow: Drain the yellow water and repeat the washing and kneading process with fresh cool water until the liquid becomes much clearer.

4. Prepare the alkaline bath: Dissolve soda ash separately and add it gradually to cool water. Monitor with pH strips, working towards approximately pH 10–11.

5. Extract the red: Add the washed petals and knead or agitate gently. Do not heat the red extraction.

6. Strain: Strain and squeeze the petals through a cloth, retaining the coloured alkaline liquid.

7. Lower the pH: Add diluted citric acid or vinegar gradually while stirring and testing. Lowering the bath to around pH 6—or mildly acidic conditions—helps develop the red.

8. Dye: Add the thoroughly scoured and wetted natural fibre. Work cool and agitate gently.

9. Deepen: Allow additional soaking time or repeat the extraction and dyeing process for a stronger result.

10. Finish: Rinse gently in cool water and dry away from direct sunlight.

The quantity of soda ash and acid required depends on the water volume and water chemistry. Use pH strips rather than relying on a fixed amount.

Tips from the dye pot

Colourfastness

Safflower has poor to moderate colourfastness.

The yellow may soften through repeated washing and light exposure. The traditional carthamin red is particularly sensitive to prolonged light and heat.

Dry and store finished work away from strong sunlight. Wash only when necessary, using cool water and a mild, pH-neutral detergent. Avoid alkaline laundry products.

Safflower is best suited to samples, historically inspired work and pieces where some natural evolution of the colour is acceptable.

Storage and safe handling

• Store sealed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

• For textile dyeing and craft use only.

• Not for consumption or use in food, drinks, cosmetics or herbal preparations.

• Avoid creating or breathing dust.

• Prevent contact with eyes, mouth and open wounds.

• Wear gloves and eye protection when preparing alkaline or acidic solutions.

• Add soda ash and acids gradually and avoid splashing.

• Never combine concentrated acids and alkalis directly.

• Follow the safety instructions for every mordant, acid, alkali and modifier used.

• Use dedicated dyeing equipment—never food-preparation utensils.

• Keep away from food, children and pets.

For textile dyeing and craft use only - not for consumption.

What you receive

Your chosen net weight of dried safflower petals, supplied in a pouch.

Mordants, soda ash, acids, pH strips and other dyeing supplies are sold separately.

Packaging

We pack as sustainably as we can while protecting your dye materials. Pouch types may vary according to pack size and the availability of our preferred lower-impact options.

Display jars are not included.

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