Madder Dye Cut or ground ~ Dye Colour a variety of reds including orange, browns, reds, brick red, blood red and fiery reds.
*Collected in the Wild of Iran
The colour depends on a variety of conditions, like the soil the roots where grown, their age, the mineral content of the water used for dyeing, the temperature of the dye pot, and how much madder you use in relation to fiber. Many dyers suggest mordanting the wool just with alum and not to use cream of tartar as well, but that is your own choice and why not try to experiment a bit? Like with any dyeing, you will need to soak the fiber overnight or for a few hours before adding them to the dye pot for both hot and cold dyeing. You can dye with madder either cold or with heat; some dyers use chalk or cream of tartar to get better reds.
Also available as dye kit!
(You can adjust the amounts as needed)
100 grams dried madder roots (soaked overnight and blended if possible or use ground)
100 grams mordanted (Alum) fiber (50 grams for darker reds or 300 grams for lighter colors)
7 to 10 liters of water
6 grams calcium carbonate (chalk) or cream of tartar, if using
Soak the roots in the dye pot over night
Bring o 65 degrees Celsius for one hour for reds, higher temp. will go more brown
Strain through cloth
Add yarn and dye bag to dye pot
Keep on 65 - 95 degrees Celsius for one hour
**IMPORTANT: The higher the temperature the darker the colour.
Oak Gall - harvested from the wild in Turkey
Oak Gall, also known as oak apple was and is still used for making ink. We use it as a fibre Mordant, due to its high tannin content. Unlike other tannin, it doesn't stain the fibre.
Oak Gall is available as whole, cut or ground.
Organic natural Indigo ~ Dye colour Blue
[our Indigo is NOT synthetic]
Country of Origin: India
The advantage in dyeing with Indigo is, that no mordant is needed. The water doesn't need to be heated to more than 40 degrees Celsius and a little goes a long way. We can dye 3-4 kg of Wool using 50g of Indigo.
There are many ways of dyeing with Indigo. Below you will find the recipe for a yeast vat. For a straight forward no-waiting-required approach, you can use Hydros as an oxygen remover. Waiting time approx. one hour.
Colourfastness: Excellent for dark colours, good for lighter colours
Basic Recipe ~
It is possible to create a vat from indigo, lime (calcium hydroxide) and over-ripe fruit such as bananas or dates that relies on the chemistry of the sugars* rather than fermentation of the fruit. But it’s easier to simply use fructose shared in
Or for a more lightfast solution go for the recipe below or for a quick Vat, use the Hydros Vat, but it does use a chemical oxygen remover.
FERMENTATION USING YEAST:
For 500gr wool etc. at one time . (amount can be repeated several times using the same bath)
dye container with lid
separate pot for the water bath to add the container
50gr dried yeast with out preservatives etc.
30gr bicarbonate of soda
40gr ground Indigo
This Method requires the dye bath to be on a constant 40 degrees Celsius and shouldn't exceed 50 degrees Celsius. Ideally put the dye pot in a water bath on a wire rack to ensure even distribution of temperature.
- Fill pot with 9l of water and heat to 40 degrees Celsius.
- Mix sugar and yeast and add to the water. Leave until dissolved and bubbly.
- Dissolve soda in a glass with hot water and add the dye, stir until smooth. Add to yeast mixture.
- Close lid and ideally put into a bin bag, you want it as air locked as possible. Leave at steady temperature for 8 hours.
- Lift lid and stir carefully until all the foamed Indigo has returned into the dye. Try to stir as little air into it as possible.
- Close the pot up again and leave for 48 hours until the water is yellow green.
- The water will show a metallic shimmer on the surface when ready. Carefully stir it back in.
- Add the damp but not mordanted wool etc. make sure all are under the water add a plate or a metallic disc to press the wool etc. under the surface. Whatever swims at the top will be unevenly dyed.
- Close it up and leave for 6 -12 hours.
- Remove wool etc. and press out back into the dye bath.
- Open wool etc. and leave exposed for at least 60min. All should turn blue.
- If you prefer a deeper blue add it to the dye bath again and repeat step 9.
- Wash twice with a mild soap, then rinse 4-5 times using vinegar in the last bath.
- Hang up and air for a few days or weeks.
You can repeat this dyeing process using the same dye bath several times.
LOGWOOD ~ Available Cut or ground and as extract*
(Bois de Campeche, Campeachy Wood)
*Collected in the Wild (foraged) in Haiti
Logwood is a natural dye wood from Central America, used for producing blues and purples on wool, black on cotton and wool, and black and violet on silk.
Logwood is PH sensitive.
It is called by old dyers one of the Lesser Dyes because the colour was said to lose all its brightness when exposed to the air.
65g bark, soaked in water for 2 days.
100g mordanted yarn/fibre (Alum 10g)
Bring pot with dye to simmer For 2h.
Strain through cloth, add yarn/fibre and dye bag to dye bath for 1h.
The logwood chips should be put in a bag and boiled for 20 minutes to 1/2 an hour, just before using or soak overnight, bring to the boil in the morning for 1h, strain and bind into bag.
* When using extract you only need to use 5-10% of the weight of your dry fabric. Logwood is one of the more excessive dyes - a little goes a long way - especially when using extract.
COCHINEAL DYE ~ Dye colours red, pinks to purples
Origin: Canary Islands, Spain. Organically farmed and processed by Canaturex ~ www.canaturex.com
I am so delighted to have finally found some organic Cochineal. Lorenzo is one of the very first offering organic fully traceable Cochineal.
Cochineal is a powerful dye - made from small insects feeding of cacti. The reds and pinks created from this tiny insects are astounding and breathtaking. From deep rich full bodied reds to light fairy like pinks can be created by only one dye bath.
Cochineal will always dye pinks on plant based fibres.
*Cochineal is the small insect, of which the most commonly cultivated species is Dactylopius. The body of the insect is made of 19–22% carminic acid.
**It takes about 80,000 to 100,000 insects to make one kilogram of cochineal dye. The two principal forms of cochineal dye are cochineal extract, a colouring made from the raw dried and pulverized bodies of insects, and carmine, a more purified colouring made from the cochineal.
Recipe For Plant Fibres: Downloadable PDF
Wool yarn mordanted with Alum 10%
Soak Cochineal in Water overnight
blend using a stick blender
Add dye to dye bath
Bring to a simmer
Remove any black tar like bubbles
Strain through a cloth and keep to the side
Add yarn to bath simmer for one hour.
Add dye bag to second and any following dye baths.
Reseda or Dyer's Weld is a Mediterranean herb and the oldest yellow dye plant in the world. Reseda alongside Madder, Woad and Chamomile produce the very best natural dyes for temperate areas.The famous medieval colours, Saxon green and Lincoln green, were produced by over-dyeing Reseda yellow with Woad blue. Lincoln green was apparently the colour of the clothing of Robin Hood's men.
Reseda is the base of many of our green yarns.
7% Soda Ash
Wool (mordanted with Alum)
Soak Reseda in Dye pot with Soda Ash overnight.
Bring to a simmer for 1 hour.
Strain through Cloth, put to the side.
Add wool to the dye pot and simmer gently for 1 hour.
*For a paler yellow add the dye bag to the 2nd bath and add the next lot of mordanted yarn.
**The same bath can be used up to 3 times.