HENNA

This henna can also be used for dyeing yarn and hair, as well as for making tattoos.  Henna will give you browns, orange/red on hair.

 Colourfastness: Medium - good

A little info on Henna from Wikipedia: 

Henna (Arabic: حِنَّاء‎‎) is a dye prepared from the plant Lawsonia inermis, also known as hina, the henna tree, the mignonette tree, and the Egyptian privet, the sole species of the Lawsonia genus.

Henna can also refer to the temporary body art (staining) based on those dyes (see also mehndi). Henna has been used since antiquity to dye skin, hair and fingernails, as well as fabrics including silk, wool and leather. Historically, henna was originally used in Egypt and then the Arabian Peninsula, Indian Subcontinent, parts of Southeast Asia, Carthage, other parts of North Africa and the Horn of Africa. The name is used in other skin and hair dyes, such as black henna and neutral henna, neither of which is derived from the henna plant.

 

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Basic Recipe: 

100g dye, diluted in cold water.
100g yarn/fibre. 

Bring pot with dye to simmer For 1h. 
Strain through cloth, add yarn/fibre and dye bag to dye bath for 1h. 
Rinse.

A Modern Mordant for Linen, Hemp & Cotton

Aluminium acetate is one of the most widely used mordants for natural dyeing on cellulose fibres such as linen, hemp, cotton, ramie and nettle.

Unlike alum, which works exceptionally well on protein fibres, aluminium acetate has become a popular choice for cellulose fibres because it can help produce bright, clear and colourfast shades.

Product Details

Our Approach to Mordanting Cellulose Fibres

At AppleOak FibreWorks, we use two different approaches depending on the desired result.

For Maximum Colourfastness

A tannin followed by aluminium mordant remains one of the most reliable methods for achieving durable colour on cellulose fibres.

Recommended tannins include:

• Oak Gallnut
• Sumach Gallnut
• Tara Powder

These tannins contribute very little background colour while helping create a strong bond between fibre, mordant and dye.

For projects where a slight warm tone is acceptable, the following tannins may also be used:

• Acacia Extract
• Myrobalan
• Chestnut Extract

For the Whitest Possible Background

When preserving the natural whiteness of linen or cotton is important, we recommend a tannin-free aluminium acetate method similar to the approach described in our guide:

How to Mordant Linen and Cotton Successfully Without Tannins

In this method, aluminium acetate is not used directly as a purchased mordant. Instead, a strong aluminium acetate concentrate is prepared from alum (potassium aluminium sulphate) and sodium acetate before use.

1. Scour the fibre thoroughly.
2. Prepare a concentrated aluminium acetate solution from alum and sodium acetate according to the recipe in our guide.
3. Mordant the fibre using the freshly prepared aluminium acetate solution.
4. Follow with a chalk bath (calcium carbonate) to fix excess acetate and improve mordant performance.
5. Rinse and proceed to dyeing.

This approach avoids the cream, beige or yellow cast that even low-colour tannins can introduce, making it particularly useful when dyeing pale yellows, pinks, blues and other delicate shades where a white background is desirable. However, it works best on smaller projects.

A Note on Tannins and Background Colour

Tannins can improve dye uptake and durability on cellulose fibres, but they also contribute varying degrees of colour to the fibre.

If maintaining a bright white base is the priority, a tannin-free aluminium acetate and chalk process is often the better choice.

Suggested Usage Rates

Mordanting Guides & AppleOak Methods

Detailed cellulose mordanting guides can be found here:

https://appleoakfibreworks.com/blogs/news/tagged/how-to-mordant-linen

Including:

• Tannin mordanting methods
• Tannin-free cellulose mordanting
• Aluminium acetate and chalk methods
• Approaches for preserving a white background

Join Our Free Natural Dyeing Community

Looking to deepen your natural dyeing knowledge and connect with other passionate dyers?

Start by joining our free Natural Dyers Academy community, where you'll find inspiration, discussions, resources, and opportunities to learn more about natural dyes, mordanting, fibre preparation, colour exploration, dye plant cultivation, and sustainable textile practices.

Join the free community here:

https://the-natural-dyers-academy.mn.co/share/Mz7coMI6VgbJMchB?utm_source=manual

Inside the community you'll find:

• Natural dyeing discussions and inspiration
• Helpful resources and learning opportunities
• Dye plant growing and harvesting tips
• Colour studies and recipe sharing
• Community support from fellow natural dyers
• Information about workshops, courses, and Academy membership options

If you'd like more structured learning, in-depth tutorials, workshops, and exclusive resources, you can also explore our full Natural Dyers Academy membership from within the community.

Please Note

For textile and craft use only.

Not intended for food, cosmetic or medicinal applications.

Weld Extract

Source: Weld (Reseda luteola), grown in Occitania, France

Weld extract is a high-performance, water-soluble dye obtained from Reseda luteola, one of the most historic and lightfast yellow dye plants. It yields clear, bright lemon and greenish-yellow shades on both protein and cellulose fibres.

This extract, produced from Weld grown in Occitania (southern France), is suitable for immersion dyeing, textile printing, ink making and surface design.

Main Components:

• Luteolin (flavonoid)
• Apigenin
• Resedine-type compounds

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: 2–4% WOF
• Medium Shades: 5–8% WOF
• Deep Yellows: 8–10%+ WOF
• Olive Greens: with Iron

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres: Produces vibrant, clear yellow tones
• Printing & Surface Design: Suitable for thickened dye pastes and binders
• Ink & Paint Making: Use with lake pigment binders or water-based systems

The Plant:

Reseda luteola, known as Weld, is a traditional European dye plant cultivated for its strong, lightfast yellow. This extract is sourced from Weld grown in Occitania, France, a region with a long heritage of dye plant cultivation.

Light Fastness:

Good

Note:

This is a soluble dye extract, not a pigment. It dissolves fully in water and performs well in both immersion and print applications.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences, join courses and get support from fellow growers and dyers.

ALDER CONES – Alnus glutinosa
Natural Dye Material | Rich in Tannins | Origin: Europe

Alder cones, much like alder bark, are rich in natural tannins that yield soft, earthy shades of brown, beige and warm yellow. Depending on the concentration and modifiers used, they can produce both gentle golden hues and deeper nut browns with a pleasant, organic tone.

Naturally high in tannins, alder cones offer medium to good colour fastness and can be used alone or as a tannin base before other plant dyes.

Dyeing Properties

• Colour range: yellow–brown to warm chestnut tones
• Tannin level: moderate to high
• Colour fastness: medium to good
• Use for: wool, silk, cotton, linen and paper

Iron modifiers darken the colour, shifting it towards greys and warm browns.

Basic Recipe

Mordant: Alum 10–15% WOF (weight of fibre)
Dyestuff: Alder cones 100–200% WOF

1. Pour boiling water over the cones and allow to steep for 24–48 hours.

2. Simmer gently for about 2 hours, then strain.

3. Add the pre-mordanted fibre to the dye bath and leave until the desired shade is reached, or soak overnight for stronger results.

4. For deeper tones, add a small amount of iron modifier at the end of the dyeing process and/or leave out the Alum mordant.

In a Nutshell

• Botanical name: Alnus glutinosa
• Form: Whole cones
• Origin: Europe
• Use: Natural dye / tannin source
• Colour fastness: Medium to good
• Storage: Keep dry, cool and away from direct sunlight

An earthy, versatile tannin source producing warm, natural tones — ideal for both standalone dyeing and tannin-rich underlayers.

The birch tree, scientifically named Betula pendula, is a type of thin-leaved deciduous hardwood tree found in the Betulaceae family. This family includes other types of trees such as alders, hazels, and hornbeams, and is closely related to the beech-oak family Fagaceae. When using birch bark (cut), be aware that the dye colour of pink, browns, and salmon, though very pretty, can have poor to medium colour fastness.

Colour fastness: poor - medium

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Basic Recipe:

Alum (mordant) 10-15% D.W.F
Birch Bark 100-200% D.W.F

Pour boiling water over the bark and steep for 24-48h

Boil the bark for two hours and strain. Add the mordanted yarn to the bath and leave until desired colour outcome or overnight.

*You can change the colour using iron, or other shifters like soda ash or citric acid

ROSEHIP SHELLS ORGANIC CUT OR GROUND
Dye Colour: Yellow and Orange | Country of Collection: Ground from South Africa, Cut from Eastern Europe

Rosehip shells, sourced from Eastern Europe (cut) and South Africa (ground), offer a beautiful natural dye that imparts a light yellow to vibrant orange hue on protein fibres like wool and silks, depending on the quantity used. Best for protein fibres, this organic dye is also suitable for soap making and consumption, adding an eco-friendly touch to your crafting projects.

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 100% WOF Dye (Rosehip): Yields a soft yellow to orange hue.
• Dyeing with Wool or Silk: Can create deeper, richer tones when left in the dye bath to cool.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:

Ingredients: 200g Rosehip Shells, 100g Wool or Silk (mordanted with 10% Alum)
Instructions:

1. Soak 200g Rosehip shells overnight.
2. Strain the mixture through a cloth, creating a dye bag, and place it in the dye bath.
3. Add mordanted wool or silk to the dye pot and simmer for 1 hour.
4. Let the fabric remain in the dye bath to cool, which will deepen the colour.
5. Rinse and dry.

Rosehip Shells provide a warm, earthy dye perfect for creating a natural palette in your fibre arts, offering beautiful yellow and orange hues, especially for protein fibres.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

Please note: cut root bark is currently out of stock but will be restocked soon.

Barberry Root Bark – Ground & Cut
Source: Berberis spp. (Barberry)

Barberry root bark is a traditional dye material valued for its high content of berberine, a potent plant alkaloid that yields clear, brilliant yellows on protein fibres. When modified with iron, it shifts to olive greens, making it a versatile addition to any natural dyer’s toolkit.

This listing includes ground root bark for quick extraction and cut bark for longer decoctions or soaking methods.

Barberry is known for its excellent light fastness, especially on wool and silk.

Main Components:

• Berberine (alkaloid)

• Alkaloid-rich tannins

Suggested Quantities (WOF):

• 20–30% for clear yellow

• With iron: 25–40% for olive tones

• Simmer gently for 60 minutes

Uses:

• Brilliant yellow dyeing on wool and silk

• Olive green shades with iron

• Layered plant dyeing with tannins and modifiers

• Historical dyeing and pigment preparation

The Plant: Barberry is a spiny shrub found across Europe and Asia. The root bark is its most dye-rich part, containing vibrant yellow berberine compounds also used in traditional medicine and inks.

Light Fastness:
High (excellent retention on protein fibres)

Form:
Ground and cut root bark

Tips:
Try layering with tannins like oak gall or sumac to deepen tone. Use on its own for luminous yellows, or with iron sulfate for olive greens.

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Dock Yellow Root – Cut
Source: Rumex spp. (Dock family)

Dock Yellow Root, cut and dried, is a traditional dye source used to create warm yellows and coral-pink tones on protein fibres. Thanks to its anthraquinone content, it offers colour versatility depending on the pH of your bath:

• In acidic to neutral conditions, expect golden yellows.

• In alkaline baths, it shifts to peachy or pink hues, particularly on silk.

This root also provides mild tannin action, making it suitable for cellulose.

Main Components:

• Anthraquinones

• Mild tannins

• Oxalates (naturally occurring)

Suggested Quantities (WOF):

• 30–50% for strong shades

• Simmer gently for 45–60 minutes

• Soak overnight to increase yield

Uses:

• Yellow and pink dyeing on wool & silk

• Alkaline baths for peach/pink tones

• Mild tannin pretreatment for cellulose

• Historical dyeing and iron modification

The Plant: Dock plants (Rumex spp.) grow widely in Europe. While often overlooked, the roots are rich in traditional dye compounds, producing yellow to coral tones with a rustic, natural charm.

Light Fastness: Medium

Form: Cut dried root

Tips:
Soak overnight before simmering. Adjust bath pH to explore colour shifts.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

Coreopsis Extract

Source: Coreopsis tinctoria (Dyer's Coreopsis)

Coreopsis extract is a high-quality, water-soluble natural dye obtained from the flowers of Coreopsis tinctoria, also known as Dyer’s Coreopsis. It produces vibrant shades ranging from sunny yellow to burnt orange and rust to brown, depending on concentration and modifiers.

Extracted in a process designed for textile use, this dye is ideal for natural dyeing, textile printing, painting and ink making. It is suitable for both protein and cellulose fibres.

Main Components:

• Flavonoids
• Chalcones
• Carotenoid-like compounds

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 2–4% WOF for pale yellow
• Medium Shades: Use 5–8% WOF for gold and orange
• Darker Tones: Use 8–10% and up WOF or apply modifiers (e.g. iron)

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres: Bright and cheerful yellows, soft oranges, and warm rusts depending on WOF and afterbaths.
• Ink & Paint Making: Suitable for water-based pigment binders, gouache, or lake pigment preparation.
• Textile Printing & Surface Design: Use with pigment binder systems or thickened pastes.

The Plant:

Coreopsis (C. tinctoria) is a hardy flowering plant native to North America and cultivated for its rich dye properties. The flowers are harvested and processed into a soluble dye extract through a water-based method designed specifically for textile applications.

Note:

This is a soluble dye extract, not a pigment. It dissolves in water and is ideal for immersion dyeing and printing alike.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences, join courses and get support from fellow growers and dyers.

Chestnut Extract ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

CHESTNUT EXTRACT from OCCITANIA | manufactured in the South of France

Chestnut Extract is a premium natural dye and tannin derived from the sustainable regrowth of chestnut trees in the South of France. Known for its eco-friendly production process, this extract offers a zero-waste solution by repurposing the remaining wood for construction materials. Rich in hydrolysable tannins (ellagic type), Chestnut Extract provides exceptional dyeing and tanning properties.

Key Features:

• Natural Dye & Tannin – Produces warm beige, brown, and grey tones on mordanted fibres.

• Sustainable & Zero-Waste – Created without external water usage, ensuring minimal environmental impact.

• Versatile Application – Ideal for textile dyeing, printing, and leather tanning.

How to Use:

• For Light Tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).

• For Medium Shades: Use 10–20% WOF.

• For Deep, Rich Hues: Use 20–30% WOF.

• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron (1–3% WOF) for deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for the best results. For optimal colour retention and depth, use Chestnut Extract in combination with other mordants.

Sustainably Sourced:

The chestnut tree, reaching heights of 25–30 metres, thrives around the Mediterranean and across temperate regions of Europe, North Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Historically used for dyeing and tanning, its large-scale use only emerged in the 19th century. Due to overexploitation and disease, chestnut groves have diminished, making sustainable sourcing essential for preserving this valuable natural resource.

Traditional Chestnut Dye Recipe:

Ingredients:

• 50g Chestnut Extract (or use the WOF formula)

• 1 litre water to dissolve, adjust water according the textile volume

• Mordanted fabric (cotton, wool, silk)

• Optional: Iron modifier for grey tones

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Chestnut Extract in warm water, stirring well.

2. Submerge pre-mordanted fabric and heat for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. For deeper shades, allow the fabric to soak overnight.

4. Rinse thoroughly and dry in the shade.

5. (Optional) For grey tones, dip the dyed fabric in an iron modifier bath.

Perfect for Eco-Conscious Crafters:

Whether you're a textile artist, natural dyer, or eco-friendly crafter, Chestnut Extract offers a versatile, sustainable dye solution. Discover the timeless beauty of natural dyes and bring rich, earthy tones to your creations!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

Oak Gall Extract > 50-60% tannic acid

Source: Oak Galls (Quercus infectoria, Quercus spp.)

Oak Gall Extract is a tannin-rich, natural auxiliary derived from galls formed on oak trees. These galls are exceptionally high in hydrolysable tannins, especially gallotannins, making this extract a powerful resource for natural dyeing, ink making, and cellulose fibre pretreatment.

Unlike condensed tannins (like those from acacia or quebracho), hydrolysable tannins such as these produce much cooler tones when combined with iron – ideal for grey colours and part of black colour development.

Main Components:

• Gallotannins (hydrolysable tannins)
• Gallic acid
• Ellagic acid

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• Pre-treatment: 10–15% WOF
• Iron dyeing (greys/blacks): 15–20% WOF
• Ink making: 1 part oak gall extract to 1 part ferrous sulfate in water

Uses:

• Pre-treating Cellulose Fibres: Enhances mordanting and dye uptake
• Grey Dyeing with Iron: Creates cool to purple greys
• Ink Making: Core ingredient in historic iron gall inks
• Surface Design & Printing: Use in thickened pastes with iron modifiers

The Plant:

Oak galls form as a natural defence mechanism when certain wasps interact with oak trees. Rich in natural tannins, these galls have been harvested for centuries for dyeing and writing inks. This extract is purified and powdered for convenience and consistent performance.

Light Fastness:

High (when paired with a mordant)

Note:

This is not a dye extract with colour of its own, but a tannin auxiliary that works best when paired with metal salts (especially iron) or mordants.

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences, join courses and get support from fellow growers and dyers. 

RED SANDALWOOD DYE (Santalum species)
Dye Colour: Soft Pink and Red Tones | Country of Collection: Kongo, Africa

Red Sandalwood is a gentle, sustainable dye sourced from responsibly harvested forests in Kongo, Africa. It creates soft, rosewood-like pink and red hues that can be influenced by different mordants, allowing for subtle colour variations. While not a strong dye, it is perfect for creating delicate tones. Red Sandalwood is an economical choice as it can be used for several dips before exhaustion, and its natural fragrance enhances the dyeing process.

Colour Fastness: Medium

Colour Outcomes by WOF Ratio:

• 100% WOF Dye (Red Sandalwood): Produces soft pink and red tones.
• Use of Iron Mordant: Deepens the colour to a darker, more intense red.
• Overdyeing: Works well when combined with other dyes for unique variations in colour.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing:
Ingredients:

• 75% - 100% Red Sandalwood
• Wool (mordanted with Alum 10%)

Instructions:

1. Pre-soak the cut sandalwood overnight (if using cut pieces).
2. Bring the dye to a simmer for 1 hour.
3. Strain the dye through cloth and add mordanted textiles to the dye bath.
4. Simmer the wool for 1 hour for soft, rosewood tones.

Notes:

• Best used for creating soft, gentle colours.
• Multiple uses are possible, making it an economical choice for dyeing.
• Ideal for protein fibres like wool and silk.

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Sumac Gallnut Extract
Source: Chinese Sumac Gallnut (Rhus semialata Murr.)

Sumac Gallnut Extract is a natural extract derived from the Chinese sumac gallnut, specifically developed for textile and natural dyeing applications. With a high tannic acid content and very low colour, this extract is ideal for pre-treating fibers and enhancing dye fixation.

Main Constituents:

• Hydrolysable Tannins (> 95%)
  
• Very low dust production during handling
• Highly soluble in both cold and hot water

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Mordanting: Use 5–10% of fabric weight (WOF).
• For Darker Shades: Combine with iron sulphate (1–3% WOF) for deeper, darker tones.

Uses:

• Pre-treatment of Vegetable Fibres: This extract’s high tannic acid content is perfect for pre-treating cellulosic fibres to improve the fixation of mordants during the mordanting step.
• Natural Dyeing & Textile Printing: Any fibre can be dyed with Sumac Gallnut Extract. It enhances the lightfastness of resulting colours. When combined with iron sulphate, it forms dark, solid complexes that are perfect for shading darker shades (e.g. madder, indigo) on silk and wool, while reducing the risk of weakening fibres.
• Other Uses: Used in tannery processes and the manufacture of iron gall inks.

The Plant:
The Chinese sumac is a shrub ranging from 2 to 10m tall, native to northeastern India, China, Japan, Korea, and Indonesia. The galls are caused by the sting of an insect, usually a kind of wasp, on the leaves or bud. Sumac gallnuts are rich in hydrolysable tannins, particularly tannic acid.

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Harvest 2026 is now available

African Tagetes Flowers
Dye Colour: Yellow and Orange | Botanical: Tagetes erecta | Grown & Dried in Ireland

Experience the joy of working with our dried African Tagetes flowers, which we personally produce and hand-collect in County Clare, Ireland. These vibrant yellow and orange flowers are packed with natural dye, ideal for colour extraction. While they may not be suitable for flower printing due to their bulkier size, they are perfect for adding a rich, warm tone to your dyeing projects. Limited availability – don't miss out on these unique, locally grown flowers!

Colour Fastness: Poor to Medium

Product Details:

• Quantity: 25g (approximately 15-20 flower heads)
• Grown & Dried in: County Clare, Ireland
• Perfect for: Colour extraction in dyeing projects

Mordant-Based Recipe for Wool (Hot and Cold Dyeing):

1. Ingredients:

   • 25g of African Tagetes Flowers
   • Wool fibre (100g)
   • Alum mordant (10% of the weight of the wool)

2. Instructions (Hot Dyeing):

   • Soak the Tagetes flowers overnight in water.
   • Boil the soaked flowers for 1 hour, then strain out the plant matter.
   • Add the mordanted wool to the dye bath and simmer for 1 hour.
   • Let the wool cool in the dye bath overnight for deeper colour.
   • Rinse the wool gently and let it dry.

3. Instructions (Cold Dyeing):

   • Soak the Tagetes flowers in water for at least 24 hours (preferably 48 hours) to extract the colour.
   • Strain the flowers, then add the mordanted wool to the dye bath.
   • Allow the wool to sit in the cold dye bath for 1-3 days, stirring occasionally.
   • Once satisfied with the colour, rinse the wool gently and let it dry.

Enjoy the vibrant yellow and orange hues that this locally grown Tagetes will bring to your wool fibres, whether you prefer hot or cold dyeing methods!

Join The Natural Dyers & Growers Academy to share your experiences and get support from fellow growers.

A Modern Aluminium Mordant for Linen, Hemp & Cotton

Aluminium lactate is a highly effective mordant for natural dyeing on cellulose fibres such as linen, hemp, cotton, ramie and nettle.

Produced from lactic acid obtained through the fermentation of renewable raw materials, it offers a more sustainable alternative to aluminium acetate while producing bright, clear and colourfast results.

Fully soluble at room temperature and compliant with GOTS 6.0 standards, aluminium lactate is easy to use and suitable for both beginners and experienced natural dyers.

Product Details

Our Approach to Mordanting Cellulose Fibres

At AppleOak FibreWorks, we recommend a tannin-first approach when mordanting cellulose fibres.

Unlike wool and silk, cellulose fibres have relatively few natural binding sites for mordants. While aluminium mordants can improve dye uptake on their own, we have consistently found that a preliminary tannin treatment produces stronger and more durable results.

The tannin acts as a bridge between the fibre, the aluminium mordant and the dye, helping improve colour depth, wash fastness and long-term durability.

Step 1 – Tannin Bath

Low-colour tannins:

• Oak Gallnut
• Sumach Gallnut
• Tara Powder

For a background colour:

• Acacia Extract
• Myrobalan
• Chestnut Extract

Step 2 – Aluminium Lactate Bath

Use aluminium lactate at approximately 5–8% WOF (weight of fibre).

A Note on Dunging & Chalk Baths

Some modern recipes recommend aluminium mordants followed by bran, chalk or dunging baths.

While these methods may improve dye uptake, our own experience and understanding of the chemistry suggest they do not create the same durable tannin–aluminium complex traditionally used on cellulose fibres.

For projects where wash fastness matters, we continue to recommend tannin followed by aluminium mordanting.

Suggested Usage Rates

Traditional Recipes, AppleOak Methods & Learning Resources

Natural dyeing is full of conflicting recipes and advice. Over the years we have tested a wide range of mordanting methods on linen, hemp and cotton and shared our findings through both our blog and the AppleOak Academy.

Traditional recipes, AppleOak cellulose mordant guides and in-depth educational resources can be found here:

AppleOak Blog

https://appleoakfibreworks.com/blogs/news/tagged/how-to-mordant-linen

Join Our Free Natural Dyeing Community

Looking to deepen your natural dyeing knowledge and connect with other passionate dyers?

Start by joining our free Natural Dyers Academy community, where you'll find inspiration, discussions, resources, and opportunities to learn more about natural dyes, mordanting, fibre preparation, colour exploration, dye plant cultivation, and sustainable textile practices.

Join the free community here:

https://the-natural-dyers-academy.mn.co/share/Mz7coMI6VgbJMchB?utm_source=manual

Inside the community you'll find:

• Natural dyeing discussions and inspiration
• Helpful resources and learning opportunities
• Dye plant growing and harvesting tips
• Colour studies and recipe sharing
• Community support from fellow natural dyers
• Information about workshops, courses, and Academy membership options

If you'd like more structured learning, in-depth tutorials, workshops, and exclusive resources, you can also explore our full Natural Dyers Academy membership from within the community.

Please Note

For textile and craft use only.

Not intended for food, cosmetic or medicinal applications.

Quebracho Bark – Cut & Ground

Source: Schinopsis lorentzii (Quebracho Colorado)

Quebracho bark is a warm-toned, condensed tannin-rich material traditionally used in natural dyeing, leather tanning and fibre pre-treatment. We offer both cut bark and ground bark, each suitable for slow processes and earthy beige tones.

• Cut Bark: Ideal for decoctions and slow extractions
• Ground Bark: Finely milled for quicker infusion and stronger colour release

🌿 For those looking for faster solubility, our Quebracho Extract is available as a separate listing.

Main Components:

• Condensed tannins
• Flavonoids (including fisetin & dihydrofisetin)

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

Cut or Ground Bark
• 30–50% WOF (soaked overnight or simmered 1 hour)

Extract (sold separately, see link below)
• 5–15% WOF (dissolves directly in water)

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres – beige
• Iron Modification – create grey, warm taupe or darker brown/beige shades
• Tannin Pre-treatment for Cellulose – use prior to mordanting
• Ink & Surface Design – ground bark can be brewed into concentrated liquids

The Plant:

Native to Argentina and Paraguay, Schinopsis lorentzii (Quebracho Colorado) is a dense hardwood whose bark yields powerful condensed tannins. A favourite among natural dyers for its earthy, iron-reactive shades and broad fibre compatibility.

Light Fastness:

Medium to High (especially with iron modifier)

Form Options:

• Cut Bark – coarse, for slow extractions and decoctions
• Ground Bark – finer, for quicker and deeper colour releases
• Powdered Extract (sold separately) – fast-dissolving, highly concentrated

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Dried Organic Walnut Shells
Rich Golden & Dark Browns for Dyeing | Wild-Harvested in Croatia

Walnut shells are a natural dye source, producing beautiful golden to deep brown hues. While fresh green husks yield the richest browns, dried shells provide an accessible and effective alternative—perfect for wool and silk dyeing.

Dyeing Tips:

• Mordanting: Tannins in walnut shells assist in dyeing, but a mordant can enhance colour depth.
• Soaking: Pre-soak the shells overnight for better colour extraction.
• Dyeing Methods: Can be used with or without a mordant—experiment to find your preferred shade.

Colour Fastness: Good – Excellent

Basic Walnut Shell Dye Recipe

(Adjust quantities as needed for different shades.)

Ingredients:

• 100% walnut shells by weight of fibre
• Wool (mordant optional)

Instructions:

1. Soak walnut shells overnight.
2. Simmer for 2 hours, then strain through cloth.
3. Add wool to the dye bath and simmer for 1 hour.
4. Let cool and leave in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse and dry.

A sustainable and traditional way to achieve rich, earthy browns in your fibre projects!

QUEBRACHO EXTRACT ~ Natural Tannin & Dye

Quebracho Extract, sourced from the bark of the Schinopsis tree, is a mild natural dye, rich in tannins. Traditionally used in textile dyeing, it enhances colour fixation on cellulose fibers, producing a range of warm, earthy hues from soft peach to reddish-brown. When combined with iron, it creates deeper, muted tones, making it perfect for creating nice, sustainable shades.

Uses & Benefits:

• Mordanting: Prepares cellulose fibers (ie. cotton, linen, hemp) for enhanced dye absorption.
• Dyeing: Produces vibrant peach, coral, terracotta, and red-brown hues, deepening when combined with iron.
• Versatile Applications: Ideal for textile arts, eco-conscious dyeing, and creating unique colour effects with natural mordants.

About the Plant:

Quebracho trees, native to South America, especially Argentina and Paraguay, are highly valued for their tannin-rich bark. Used for centuries in leather tanning, traditional dyeing, and natural medicine, Quebracho has a rich history in sustainable practices.

Recommended Usage for Dyeing:

• For light tones: Use 5–10% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).
• For medium shades: Use 10–20% WOF.
• For deeper hues: Use 20–30% WOF.
• To create darker shades: Combine with iron (1–2% WOF) for deeper, muted colours.

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to your dye bath for best results. For optimal colour retention and vibrancy, use Quebracho Extract as a pre-mordant or combine with other natural mordants.

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Cola Nuts
Dye Colour: Orange to Almost-Black | Botanically: Cola nitida (Vent.) A. Chev.

Cola nuts, a treasured natural dye source from Africa, are celebrated for their rich, vibrant orange hue. When combined with Indigo, they create a striking, almost-black colour, a technique rooted in traditional African dyeing practices. With their high tannin content, Cola nuts offer exceptional colour fastness, making them a reliable and durable choice for natural dyeing. Perfect for eco-conscious artists and makers, Cola nuts provide a unique and sustainable addition to your dyeing collection.

Colour Fastness: Very Good

Video Demonstration:
To see the Cola nut dyeing process in action, watch this insightful video from 1996 showcasing the use of Cola nuts and Indigo in textiles.

"A Dyeing Art" - Indigo & Cola Nut & Textiles - Circa 1996

Watch the video here

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Acacia Extract
Source: Black Acacia (Acacia mearnsii De Wild)

Acacia Extract is a high-quality, plant-based tannin obtained from the bark of Black Acacia, also known as "Black Wattle" or "Mimosa." Rich in condensed tannins (60-65%), this extract offers excellent versatility for both pre-treatment and dyeing applications.

Main Components:

• Condensed Tannins 60-65%
• Flavonoids (chalcones)

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 5-10% WOF for beige tones.
• Medium Shades: Use 10-15% WOF for brown hues.
• Dark Shades: Use 15-20% WOF for grey and near-black tones when combined with ferrous sulfate.
• Deep Black Shades: Combine with other tannins (e.g., Tara) and extracts (e.g., Logwood) for rich, dark colours with iron sulfate.

Uses:

• Pre-Treatment of Cellulose Fibres: Acacia extract is highly rich in tannins, perfect for pre-treating cellulosic fibres to enhance mordant fixation and improve colour adhesion. Due to its natural colour, it will impart a slight tint to the fibres.
• Natural Dyeing & Textile Printing of Cellulose: Acacia extract can be used with or without mordant, producing shades ranging from beige and brown to grey and almost black. Combining with other tannins and iron sulfate results in rich, dark shades.
• Other Uses: Ideal for tannery applications, adhesives in the wood industry, and corrosion protection for metals.

The Plant:
Black Acacia, or Acacia mearnsii, is native to southeastern Australia and has become widely cultivated in tropical and subtropical regions worldwide, including South and East Africa, Brazil, and India. Known as the largest global source of plant tannins, the bark of Black Acacia contains 30-40% tannins (pro-anthocyanidins) and flavonoids, making it a valuable resource for a variety of industries.

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Solidago Extract

Source: Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis)

Solidago extract is a soluble natural dye derived from the flowering tops of Solidago canadensis, also known as Goldenrod. It produces soft, warm golden yellow hues with a slightly earthy tone and is suitable for use on both protein and cellulose fibres.

Ideal for immersion dyeing, textile printing, and ink or paint making, this extract is easy to use and lends itself to seasonal or layered colour work.

Main Components:

• Flavonoids (e.g. quercetin, kaempferol)
• Tannins

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: 2–4% WOF
• Medium Shades: 5–8% WOF
• Rich Golds: 8–10% WOF (can be modified with iron or combined with tannins for olive shades)

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres: Produces soft to deep golden yellow
• Textile Printing & Surface Design: Suitable for thickened dye paste systems
• Ink & Paint Making: Can be incorporated into water-based systems or used for lake pigment preparation

The Plant:

Solidago canadensis is a perennial flowering plant native to North America and widely naturalised in Europe. Traditionally harvested in late summer and early autumn, its flower heads yield warm golden tones prized in folk and botanical dye traditions.

Light Fastness:

Medium

Note:

This is a soluble dye extract, not a pigment. It dissolves fully in water and is suitable for immersion or surface application.

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MYROBALAN EXTRACT ~ Tannin Mordant & Natural Dye

Myrobalan Extract, derived from the nuts of Terminalia chebula, is a rich source of natural tannins, including gallic and ellagic acid. Traditionally used in textile dyeing and printing, it enhances mordant fixation on cellulose fibers and produces shades ranging from light yellow to deep brown. Combined with iron, it is a key ingredient in creating grey and black tones.

Uses & Benefits:

• Mordanting: Prepares cellulose and protein fibres for improved dye absorption.

• Dyeing & Printing: Produces soft yellow to brown tones, deepening when used with alum or iron.

• Versatile Applications: Used in tannery, ink preparation, and silk processing.

About the Plant:

Chebulic Myrobalan grows across Asia and parts of Africa, prized for its tannin-rich fruits. It has been used for centuries in textile traditions, tannery, and even traditional medicine.

Recommended Usage for Dyeing:

• As a mordant for cellulose fibres: Use 10–20% of the weight of the fabric (WOF).

• For light yellow tones: Use 5–10% WOF.

• For deeper brown shades: Use 20–30% WOF.

• When used with iron for greys and blacks: Start with 10–15% WOF of Myrobalan, then follow with an iron afterbath (1–3% WOF).

Dissolve the extract in hot water before adding it to the dye bath for best results.

For optimal results, use as a pre-mordant or in combination with iron for darker tones.

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Neutral Henna Powder ~ colourless henna. It is also known as Cassia Obovata

Netural Henna is made from pure henna leaves of different quality and neutralized chemicals.

Neutral Henna Powder gives little or no colouring effect. I personally find that it gives a more natural look to lightened hair. It is used for hair conditioning and gives a natural shine & lustre to hair. Safe and free from any side effect, this henna  is widely used by those people who desire to benefit from the medicinal uses of henna but do not want to colour their hair.

It also has a powerful antimicrobial and antifungal properties that have been used for centuries to treat common hair and scalp conditions such as lice, dandruff, psoriasis and ringworm.

- Adds volume
- Adds extra shine-
- Makes your hair feel and look thicker
- Deeply conditions and protects your hair
- Strengthens hair strands by filling in the damaged pockets in the follicles
- Elongates curls, giving hair more definition and length

USAGE
Mix ½ cup (50 g) of Neutral henna powder with ¼ cup (59 ml) of warm water. Double quantity for long or full hair. Stir to combine. Once you’ve mixed the powder and water, cover the bowl with plastic and let it develop at room temperature for about 10 minutes.

Apply this paste uniformly on hair with the help of a brush or massage in.

Cover hair with a plastic cap and leave it for around 15 to 20 minutes for a little colour 1-2h.

Rinse off hair with plain water.

Horse Chestnut Bark – Cut

Source: Aesculus hippocastanum

Cut Horse Chestnut Bark is a lesser-known but valuable source of natural tannins, especially effective for cellulose fibre preparation, natural greys with iron, and historical dye practices. This bark contains condensed tannins, making it well suited for textile work on both plant and animal fibres.

Our bark is coarsely cut and ideal for slow dyeing, decoctions, or tannin-rich soaks. It can be used alone or combined with other tannins or metal salts for complex tones and improved mordant adhesion.

Main Components:

• Condensed tannins
• Flavonoids
• Saponins (minor)

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• 20–80% WOF for decoction or fibre soak
• Simmer for 1 hour or soak overnight
• Use hot or cool for varied tones

Uses:

• Pre-treatment of Cellulose Fibres – improves mordant take-up
• Iron Modification – yields soft greys and warm browns
• Natural Dyeing – use alone or as a tannin base
• Historical Dye Methods – suitable for re-enactment dyeing and archival processes

The Plant:

Horse chestnut is a deciduous tree native to southeastern Europe, now naturalised across Ireland and the UK. Its bark has long been used in folk medicine and traditional dyeing for its tannin content and gentle tones. When modified with iron, it reveals subtle grey-browns, ideal for grounding brighter botanical colours.

Light Fastness:

Medium to High (when used with a mordant)

Form:

• Coarse-cut bark
• Not water-soluble; requires simmering or soaking

🌿 Tip: Combine with iron sulphate for muted greys, or use as a base layer in multi-step dyeing on cellulose fibres.

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Grape Seed Extract
Source: White Grape Seeds (Vitis Vinifera L.) | Grape Seed Extract from Occitania

Grape Seed Extract is a 100% natural dye made from the seeds of white grapes, upcycled from the by-products of the wine-making industry. Produced sustainably through a water-based extraction process, this extract supports circular economy principles, offering an eco-friendly option for textile dyeing and beyond.

Main Components:

• Condensed Tannins > 70% (catechin equivalent)
• Eco-friendly, upcycled product
• Water-extracted for minimal environmental impact

Suggested Quantities (WOF - Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 5–10% WOF for soft, pinky-beige hues (without mordant).
• Medium Shades: Use 10–15% WOF for more intense colour.
• Dark Shades: Use 5–20% WOF and combine with mordants such as iron for darker tones like grey.

Uses:

• Natural Dye & Textile Printing: Suitable for all types of fibres, whether mordanted or not. Typical shades depend on the recipe and mordant, including pinky-beige (no mordant), grey (with iron), and orange (with titanium). The extract is registered as "metal-free" and provides good lightfastness.
• Other Uses: Ideal for tannery processes, antioxidants, and more.

The Plant:
The vine (Vitis vinifera) is a woody, climbing plant, known for its long stems that can grow up to six metres. Its small flowers are greenish-white, and the fruits are grape clusters. Grapes have been cultivated for thousands of years in Europe, western Asia, and northern Africa. They are used for fresh eating, drying as raisins, or fermentation to produce wine.

Upcycling of By-products:
Grape Seed Extract is produced through the upcycling of wine industry by-products, contributing to circular economy practices. The wine industry offers a wealth of natural ingredients such as wines, juices, concentrates, and polyphenols, while minimizing waste through innovation and new technologies. The producer is located in the heart of the South of France’s vineyard region and proudly contributes to this sustainable bio-economy.

Recipe for Dyeing with Grape Seed Extract:

Ingredients:

• Grape Seed Extract (use WOF formula)
• 1 litre of water to dissolve (adjust based on the amount of fabric)
• Pre-mordanted fabric (cotton, wool, silk)
• Optional: Iron modifier for grey tones

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Grape Seed Extract in warm water, stirring well until fully dissolved.
2. Add pre-mordanted or not mordanted fabric to the dye bath.
3. Heat the fabric in the dye bath for 45–60 minutes, stirring occasionally, leave overnight (optional).
   
4. Rinse thoroughly in cold water and dry in the shade.
5. Optional: For grey tones, dip the dyed fabric in an iron modifier bath.

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Lac Dye - A Beautiful Violet to Red to Brown Colour

Lac dye is a rich and versatile natural dye, known for its use in the iconic Tibetan Monks’ tunic. Unlike the vivid brightness of cochineal red, Lac produces a more mature, wine-like red tone that evolves from violet to red, and then into a warm brown.

What is Lac?
Lac is a resinous secretion produced by several species of lac insects, with the most commonly cultivated species being Kerria lacca. The cultivation process starts when a farmer attaches a brood lac stick, containing eggs ready to hatch, to a tree. As the insects hatch, they colonise the branches of the host trees and secrete the resin that forms the pigment. The branches are then harvested and processed into stick lac, which is crushed and sieved to remove impurities. The resulting product, seed lac, is further refined to produce shellac.

Colour fastness:
Good to excellent, ensuring lasting and vibrant hues.

Basic Recipe for Dyeing with Lac:

• 3-5% Lac (based on the weight of your material)
• Wool (no mordant required)
• 10-15% Alum (if using more than 5% Lac, or if preferred)

Instructions:

1. Dissolve the Lac in warm water and add it to your dye pot.
2. Immerse the wool (pre-wetted) into the dye bath, bringing it to a gentle simmer.
3. Allow the dye bath to simmer for one hour, ensuring the pigment thoroughly saturates the wool.
4. After an hour, turn off the heat and leave the wool to steep in the dye bath overnight.
5. Rinse the wool thoroughly and allow it to air dry.

One dye bath can be used to dye multiple skeins of yarn, making this an economical and efficient option for larger projects.

Additional Tip:
For enhanced colour depth, I would recommend a 20-minute vinegar soak after rinsing. This additional step enriches the dyed fibres and ensures a more vibrant finish.

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African Tagetes Flowers – Tagetes patula

Dye Colour: Yellow and Orange | Botanical: Tagetes patula | Grown & Dried in Ireland

Bring the warmth of summer to your fibre work with our hand-harvested African Tagetes flowers (Tagetes patula), grown and dried in County Clare, Ireland. These marigold-like blossoms yield rich yellow and orange hues ideal for natural dyeing.

Unlike Tagetes erecta, this smaller-flowered variety is more delicate in shape, making it well suited to both dye extraction and eco-printing, as well as bundle dyeing. Its accessible petal structure makes it a favourite for surface design artists - though the pressed or fresh versions would work better.

🌼 Limited availability – grown in small batches using ecological methods.

Colour Fastness:

Poor to Medium

Product Details:

• Quantity: 25g (approx. 25–35 flower heads)

• Grown & Dried in: County Clare, Ireland

• Ideal for: Colour extraction, eco-printing, surface design

Mordant-Based Recipe for Wool (Hot and Cold Dyeing)

Ingredients:

• 25g of Tagetes patula flowers

• 100g of wool fibre

• 10% alum mordant (based on fibre weight)

Hot Dyeing Instructions:

1. Soak flowers overnight in water

2. Boil for 1 hour to extract the dye, then strain

3. Add mordanted wool and simmer for 1 hour

4. Leave the wool to cool overnight in the bath for richer tones

5. Rinse gently and dry

Cold Dyeing Instructions:

1. Soak the flowers for 24–48 hours in cool water

2. Strain the flowers and add mordanted wool to the bath

3. Let sit 1–3 days, stirring occasionally

4. Rinse gently and dry when colour is achieved

Enjoy rich, locally grown colour whether you're dipping skeins or creating botanical prints.
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Genista Extract

Source: Dyer’s Broom (Genista tinctoria)

Genista extract is a bright, water-soluble natural dye derived from the flowering tops of Genista tinctoria, commonly known as Dyer’s Broom. This traditional European dye plant yields clean, sunny yellows that perform beautifully on both protein and cellulose fibres.

The extract dissolves easily in water, making it suitable for immersion dyeing, textile printing, surface design and ink making.

Main Components:

• Flavonoids (primarily luteolin)
• Isoflavones

Suggested Quantities (WOF – Weight of Fabric):

• Light Shades: Use 2–4% WOF
• Medium Shades: Use 5–8% WOF
• Brighter/Deeper Yellows: Use 8–10% WOF or layer with weld or alum-tannin mordants

Uses:

• Natural Dyeing of Protein & Cellulose Fibres: Produces vibrant, clear yellows
• Printing & Surface Design: Use in thickened pastes or binder systems
• Ink & Paint Making: Suitable for water-based dye binders or lake pigment preparation

The Plant:

Dyer’s Broom (Genista tinctoria) is a native European shrub historically used in medieval dyehouses for its strong yellow hues. Harvested just before flowering, the tops are processed using a low-impact extraction method to produce a dye suitable for modern natural textile applications.

Light Fastness:

Medium

Note:

This is a soluble dye extract, not a pigment. It is fully water-soluble and ideal for immersion dyeing or printing with gum or starch binders.

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Catechu Dye – Dye Colour: Browns and Beige | Botanical: Acacia catechu | Produced & Processed in India

Catechu, also known as Cutch, is a versatile natural dye that produces a beautiful range of brown and beige shades on cotton, silk, and wool fibres. This dye is composed of two components: catechu-tannic acid, which dissolves in cold water, and catechin, which requires hot water for extraction. Catechu is rich in tannins and will dye without the need for a mordant, though it can also benefit from one for brighter results. Some even suggest Catechu may help those with eczema – an added bonus for a naturally healing dye!

Colour Fastness: Good

Product Details:

• Dye Colour: Brown and Beige
• Perfect for: Cotton, silk, and wool fibres
• Mordant Optional: Alum for brighter colours, Iron for darker results

Basic Recipe:

1. Ingredients:
   • 200g wool (mordant optional)
   • 20g Catechu extract (made into paste with boiling water)
2. Instructions:
   • Add the Catechu paste to the dye pot with hot water and stir regularly.
   • Add the mordanted wool and simmer for 1 hour.
   • Leave the wool in the dye bath overnight for a deeper colour.
   • Let the wool oxidize before rinsing.

Note:

• Catechu is difficult to exhaust, meaning you can add more wool later for lighter tones.
• Mordanting the wool with Alum will give brighter results, but Catechu will still produce rich browns without it. For darker shades, use an Iron mordant.

Enjoy the versatility of Catechu dye and explore its potential for a wide range of beautiful brown and beige hues in your projects!

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